Brake Pads

[JonnyG2132]

What kind are you guys getting?

Thanks
Jon

[Executor999]

I see you have 18" stock wheels. I do too. Assuming you're staying with them, I recommend the package deal that Maryland Speed offers on DBA direct replacement rotors and Hawk pads (http://marylandspeed.com/build-your-own-dba-hawk-package-20082009-pontiac-g8-gt-g8dbahawk-p-2994.html). That's what I'm saving up for because I'm not changing my wheels.

[hulkss]

For Stock GT Brakes:

17D1351CH Pads, Ceramic, Front, AC Delco
12062113 Rotors, Premium, Front, Centric
17D1352CH Pads, Ceramic, Rear, AC Delco
12062114 Rotors, Premium, Rear, Centric

Ceramic DuraStop Brakes
New revolutionary brake friction material, consisting of ceramic and soft metal fibers
Extended brake pad and shoe life span
Drastically reduced braking noise, such as squealing and screeching
Smooth, dust-free and consistent stops, as well as rapid recovery
Ideal for more demanding applications
100 percent slotted, chamfered and shimmed for problem-free operation

Keep in mind that there are no government regulations covering replacement brake pads. Many are all hype with no certified testing.

I only buy pads certified to D3EA which stands for Dual Dynamometer Differential Effectiveness Analysis. This procedure tests front and rear friction materials together on dual dynamometers, then simulates vehicle weight and speed through a computer program to measure braking effectiveness and balance for different applications. D3EA was introduced in 1996. The D3EA tests are proprietary and more expensive, but they're also completely independent and tougher to pass.

http://www.greeninginc.com/D3EA%20Testing_files/image001.gif

[Executor999]

Wow thanks for the tip!

Looks like Tire Rack has the rotors available but I noticed the part numbers are swapped from how you list them.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=Centric&model=Premium+Rotor&group=Premium+Rotor&autoMake=Pontiac&autoModel=G8+GT&autoYear=2008&autoModClar=


For Stock GT Brakes:

17D1351CH Pads, Ceramic, Front, AC Delco
12062113 Rotors, Premium, Front, Centric
17D1352CH Pads, Ceramic, Rear, AC Delco
12062114 Rotors, Premium, Rear, Centric

Keep in mind that there are no government regulations covering replacement brake pads. Many are all hype with no certified testing.

I only buy pads certified to D3EA which stands for Dual Dynamometer Differential Effectiveness Analysis. This procedure tests front and rear friction materials together on dual dynamometers, then simulates vehicle weight and speed through a computer program to measure braking effectiveness and balance for different applications. D3EA was introduced in 1996. The D3EA tests are proprietary and more expensive, but they're also completely independent and tougher to pass.

[hulkss]

Can we buy these through GM?

Yes, you can get the front pads (GM 19241441) here: WasSlow (http://wasslow.com/). Contact him about the rears (GM 19241442).

[Chewy]

Hawk HPS with NO noise and amazingly, very little dust. I also have DBA rotors. This thing stops AMAZINGLY now.

[JonnyG2132]

Thanks a lot guys!

[Mier]

I just bought some Hawk ceramic pads. I'll let you guys know how they work on a straight stock setup with just swapping the pads.

[Executor999]

Where's the best place to get the Centric rotors?

[JonnyG2132]

I just bought some Hawk ceramic pads. I'll let you guys know how they work on a straight stock setup with just swapping the pads.

Please do. I know my rotors are warped though so i have to changed those

[Seattle09GT]

Installing DBA rotors, Hawk pads and Russell SS lines tomorrow with ATE Blue brake fluid. Will update on what we think after we're done.

[Napalm]

I'm a big fan of Carbotech or porterfield brake pads.

Also coming from the GTO. Don't put EBC pads with DBA rotors. I know they claim to be OK, but many people myself included had major issues with pad deposits using that combination. pad bedding didn't do shit with them either. I am convinced it was a chemistry issue. Major pad deposits. where same rotors, same car, tires and driving habits but different pads lead to no deposits.

Just an FYI.

[pha|anx]

Installing DBA rotors, Hawk pads and Russell SS lines tomorrow with ATE Blue brake fluid. Will update on what we think after we're done.

Would LOVE to hear about your experience. My rotors are fucked and this is pretty much the only option I'm seriously considering right now. I'm looking at the drilled and slotted regular rotors and the HP ceramic pads.

Do stainless lines really make a big difference? How about fluid options?

Sent from Hell via my Galaxy S Captivate

[Napalm]

ss lines help with pedal feel and modulation. imagine the rubber hoses expanding every time you pump the pedal after they have been on the car a while.

You will notice a firmer pedal feel, once you get used to it, you can't go back.

On fluid, what I do so take with a grain of salt: I used to DD my GTO and track my GTO. So I would put standard Valvoline Synethetic brake fluid (its like $7 per 1 quart, 1 litre) bottle at your autozone or orieliys. This is clear when it goes in, and you flush the entire system of the car (more on that later you don't need a Tech 2 to do it). When I would track the car, I would flush again with ATE super blue fluid (jegs, summit etc and other carry it) its more like 21+ per 1 litre bottle. it is blue going in, you knew you were good when the fluid was clean and blue.

track the car, come home, flush again with basic Valvoline. repeat as often as possible per track day. For a daily driven car, expensive brake fluids aren't worth the money.

Also for me Tracking the car meant road course or AutoX course. not Drag races.
And I flush my brake system every year or 2 years depending on use. Just to keep the abs unit clean and happy. I call it cheap insurance.

[wreckwriter]

Hawk HPS with NO noise and amazingly, very little dust. I also have DBA rotors. This thing stops AMAZINGLY now.

That's funny, mine dust like crazy.

[pha|anx]

ss lines help with pedal feel and modulation. imagine the rubber hoses expanding every time you pump the pedal after they have been on the car a while.

You will notice a firmer pedal feel, once you get used to it, you can't go back.

On fluid, what I do so take with a grain of salt: I used to DD my GTO and track my GTO. So I would put standard Valvoline Synethetic brake fluid (its like $7 per 1 quart, 1 litre) bottle at your autozone or orieliys. This is clear when it goes in, and you flush the entire system of the car (more on that later you don't need a Tech 2 to do it). When I would track the car, I would flush again with ATE super blue fluid (jegs, summit etc and other carry it) its more like 21+ per 1 litre bottle. it is blue going in, you knew you were good when the fluid was clean and blue.

track the car, come home, flush again with basic Valvoline. repeat as often as possible per track day. For a daily driven car, expensive brake fluids aren't worth the money.

Also for me Tracking the car meant road course or AutoX course. not Drag races.
And I flush my brake system every year or 2 years depending on use. Just to keep the abs unit clean and happy. I call it cheap insurance.

Thanks for the quick reply! Alright that sells me on stainless lines then lol. Cheapo fluid it is!

Sent from Hell via my Galaxy S Captivate

[Napalm]

I have lots of info about brake systems that most people don't agree with as it defies conventional wisdom. I used to work for a company that made ABS modules, for GM, Mercedes, AUDI, Lamborghini, and others.

later in life I was doing Aircraft brake systems. Some people don't like my thoughts but the ultimate in braking systems is on commercial jets, it later trickles to automotive. There is a reason why you don't see drilled rotors on an aircraft. It has nothing to do with cracking.

Slotted rotors (Iron and Carbon) have been around for years.

[Seattle09GT]

Would LOVE to hear about your experience. My rotors are fucked and this is pretty much the only option I'm seriously considering right now. I'm looking at the drilled and slotted regular rotors and the HP ceramic pads.

Do stainless lines really make a big difference? How about fluid options?

Sent from Hell via my Galaxy S Captivate

Ya, my front rotors are totally fucked from doing DPE school last year - not impressed. After time on the handling oval the brakes were literally smoking. I'll add I don't have much to complain about, an Audi A6 that was running the same day also had BBQ brake pads smoking away and near cooked brake fluid.

Stainless steel brake lines make a difference, feel is much more firm. The stock lines bulge when the fluid pulses through, and that bulging gets worse when the fluid is heated, so you need more pressure on the pedal to get the same amount of brake force. Perceived fade is greatly reduced.

I know the folks at DBA say Hawk Pads or nothing, so that is what I'm going with, I went with the ceramic as they can take heat better. I don't do serious hard core lapping but dabble in auto-X and will do some lazy lapping this fall (and more of that moving forward).

I'm going ATE Blue as an overkill choice. Figure if I can get two years out of a single flush than it is all good.

I'll keep people posted, I only have 18K miles on my G8, I just want better brakes. I suspect a lot of people are looking at options as they are pushing into the useful life of the OEM brake system.

[hulkss]

Where's the best place to get the Centric rotors?

I got mine at RockAuto (http://www.rockauto.com/)
I like the machined hats and corrosion protection they use.

http://www.centricparts.com/images/stories/120rotors1.jpg

[Executor999]

I got mine at RockAuto (http://www.rockauto.com/)
I like the machined hats and corrosion protection they use.

http://www.centricparts.com/images/stories/120rotors1.jpg

Thanks. They have great prices on the rotors and the AC Delco pads.

[stryker g8gt]

I am running centric hubs on the front, they still warpped slightly after 25k but not like OEMs.

[hulkss]

I am running centric hubs on the front, they still warpped slightly after 25k but not like OEMs.

Here's what they have to say about "warped" rotors: The “Warped” Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System (http://www.centricparts.com/files/Centric%20White%20Paper%20B1-Warped%20Brake%20Disc.pdf)

[Sephiroth]

ss lines help with pedal feel and modulation. imagine the rubber hoses expanding every time you pump the pedal after they have been on the car a while.

You will notice a firmer pedal feel, once you get used to it, you can't go back.

On fluid, what I do so take with a grain of salt: I used to DD my GTO and track my GTO. So I would put standard Valvoline Synethetic brake fluid (its like $7 per 1 quart, 1 litre) bottle at your autozone or orieliys. This is clear when it goes in, and you flush the entire system of the car (more on that later you don't need a Tech 2 to do it). When I would track the car, I would flush again with ATE super blue fluid (jegs, summit etc and other carry it) its more like 21+ per 1 litre bottle. it is blue going in, you knew you were good when the fluid was clean and blue.

track the car, come home, flush again with basic Valvoline. repeat as often as possible per track day. For a daily driven car, expensive brake fluids aren't worth the money.

Also for me Tracking the car meant road course or AutoX course. not Drag races.
And I flush my brake system every year or 2 years depending on use. Just to keep the abs unit clean and happy. I call it cheap insurance.

why would you flush to switch at all? ATE blue still has a high wet boiling point. plenty of people use the stuff on DD's, I've got some on order right now actually. infact, I run the
valvoline stuff right now and I know it's wet boiling point is lower than the blue. unless you cant pass inspection, is there some other reason?

[stryker g8gt]

Here's what they have to say about "warped" rotors: The “Warped” Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System (http://www.centricparts.com/files/Centric%20White%20Paper%20B1-Warped%20Brake%20Disc.pdf)

interesting reading, including this section...........


MYTH # 6 - The brake fluid reservoir should be topped up during routine service.
In most modern passenger cars, the brake fluid reservoir is designed with a specific volume and is equipped with an internal float. The volume corresponds to the amount of fluid that will be displaced when the pads have worn to the point of replacement plus a generous reserve. When the replacement point is reached, the descending float completes an electrical circuit and a light appears on the dash warning the driver that the pads should be replaced. If the brake fluid is topped up the first warning of warn out pads will be the screech of steel backing plate against iron disc. This will be both annoying and expensive.

[Seattle09GT]

Would LOVE to hear about your experience. My rotors are fucked and this is pretty much the only option I'm seriously considering right now. I'm looking at the drilled and slotted regular rotors and the HP ceramic pads.

Do stainless lines really make a big difference? How about fluid options?

Sent from Hell via my Galaxy S Captivate

So - bedded in my pads on C Street in Auburn, it is a perfect place for pad bed in. A rarely traveled road on the weekends with a very long straight where you can go 60 to 5 / 60 to 5 about 6 times for a good bed in procedure. It went perfect, got the smell on the fifth hard brake, started going away on the 7th, gone on the 8th.

We drove to Portland and back over the weekend, including taking 47/202 to Astoria and then 101/12/8 back to Olympia. Observations:

1) Pedal feel is so much better with the stainless steel brake lines. I will never, ever, go back to factory synthetic lines again. What a difference, love it

2) I can't make rave reviews like stops on dime, etc. etc. - party of this too is following proper break in procedures. Stopping power is linear and smooth, I would say the biggest difference is unlike the stock brakes that grab better and better as the car slows down - the feel is more linear with even action as you apply more pressure.

Overall very happy - the DBA rotors construction is clearly much better than stock when examining them. If you drive aggressively, Auto-X or DPE it is a worthy investment. Also if you plan to do lapping or advanced track work remember, there really aren't any racing tires made past 18" - big brakes are awesome, but can cause serious spacing issues for your rims.

[Sephiroth]

interesting reading, including this section...........


MYTH # 6 - The brake fluid reservoir should be topped up during routine service.
In most modern passenger cars, the brake fluid reservoir is designed with a specific volume and is equipped with an internal float. The volume corresponds to the amount of fluid that will be displaced when the pads have worn to the point of replacement plus a generous reserve. When the replacement point is reached, the descending float completes an electrical circuit and a light appears on the dash warning the driver that the pads should be replaced. If the brake fluid is topped up the first warning of warn out pads will be the screech of steel backing plate against iron disc. This will be both annoying and expensive.


If pads only lasted 30K miles and 2 years, I wouldn't have any argument. However, since most modern pad material lasts way beyond that, and Dot3/4 should be serviced every 2 years, it really does not make sense to allow the fluid to remain stagnant until the pads ran out. Otherwise the OEM Fluid would probally be in most G8's for the forseable future the way my OE pads are wearing, and my fluid was already turning milky/brown with a mushy pedal after just 25K and 2 years.

Additionally, pads as long as I remeber have an additional noise feature when the material reaches 20% or so.

[MIEngineer]

Yep....D3EA brake components are tested to meet certain standards for performance. Good choice.

[Chewy]

That's funny, mine dust like crazy.

I should add that 90% of my driving is highway which helps. I'm still amazed. The dusting compared to my stockers under the same conditions is pretty similar. The HPS's being more dust, but not much more.

[Napalm]

why would you flush to switch at all? ATE blue still has a high wet boiling point. plenty of people use the stuff on DD's, I've got some on order right now actually. infact, I run the
valvoline stuff right now and I know it's wet boiling point is lower than the blue. unless you cant pass inspection, is there some other reason?

flush as opposed to replace. I suppose I should say replace, and with replacement I do flush away some. I have yet to do this on the G8. The GTO really needed a fluid flush the day it was purchased. I bought my 8 used and I am doing this next week.

Some race tracks for events ask to see your brake fluid condition, since I don't bring any with me I like to have new fluid in there. habit more that anything. honestly I considered running blue all the time. but for DD use, its not necessary and to get the race fluid out it was nice to have the color change. without using ATE 200 (or whatever it is that is orange)


interesting reading, including this section...........


MYTH # 6 - The brake fluid reservoir should be topped up during routine service.
In most modern passenger cars, the brake fluid reservoir is designed with a specific volume and is equipped with an internal float. The volume corresponds to the amount of fluid that will be displaced when the pads have worn to the point of replacement plus a generous reserve. When the replacement point is reached, the descending float completes an electrical circuit and a light appears on the dash warning the driver that the pads should be replaced. If the brake fluid is topped up the first warning of warn out pads will be the screech of steel backing plate against iron disc. This will be both annoying and expensive.


Once again Stoptech/Centric (odd how they are the same company right with castings from China) have some of the info correct. Yes modern cars (going back to the 90's) have had low fluid indication to go off right before you hit the wear marker on the factory pads. this is true, and yes most drivers don't care about fluid condition or volume or ? so from a MX perspective, if the lines don't ever leak, this is a good indicator for pad replacement.

but its rarely ever accurate, temperature changes will cause that slight line between warning chime and silence such that the owner will take the car in, and the shop will say "you could use new pads in about a year, but BTW your fluid was on the low side . . . " and it gets topped offanyway.

Oddly these same people that have brake myths will tell you to replace your rotors anyway. as they should never be reused let alone ever turned. Marketing hype being what it is.


If pads only lasted 30K miles and 2 years, I wouldn't have any argument. However, since most modern pad material lasts way beyond that, and Dot3/4 should be serviced every 2 years, it really does not make sense to allow the fluid to remain stagnant until the pads ran out. Otherwise the OEM Fluid would probally be in most G8's for the forseable future the way my OE pads are wearing, and my fluid was already turning milky/brown with a mushy pedal after just 25K and 2 years.

Additionally, pads as long as I remeber have an additional noise feature when the material reaches 20% or so.

Most people on this site seem to think critically enough to notice the slight flaws in the propagana. I love this place.


Yep....D3EA brake components are tested to meet certain standards for performance. Good choice.

[kendall.alston]

sooo are any of yall getting rid of your rotors....kinda warped one of my front rotors. need a new pair before i get back stateside

[Mier]

I did the bedding procedure with 7 medium stops from 30-35 and 3 hard stops from 40-45. They bite pretty good and braking is good but I get some small rubbing noise on slow rolls and stops. I wonder if I need to go and have the rotors and pads roughed up like I didn't do the bedding correctly or this will just go away with time.

[Chewy]

I did the bedding procedure with 7 medium stops from 30-35 and 3 hard stops from 40-45. They bite pretty good and braking is good but I get some small rubbing noise on slow rolls and stops. I wonder if I need to go and have the rotors and pads roughed up like I didn't do the bedding correctly or this will just go away with time.

If you just put new pads on old rotors, that's somewhat normal. I wouldn't worry too much about it unless it continues.

Chris

[Mier]

Still getting that rubbing sound, guess I'll have to take it back and get the guy to rough up the rotor and the pads. Do you have to redo the bedding when you do that?

[hulkss]

If the rotors you "bedded-in" were not new, they should be machined on a brake lathe, then skuffed prior to bedding-in again.

[Mier]

They had been machined 1 to 2 months ago to fix a brake judder problem (driver rear was warped)

I'll take it back to him, he said he'd take a thousandth off to rough it up without taking too much.

[hulkss]

Apparently changing pad material can cause issues if you don't start from a fresh rotor surface.

[GT Drew]

New pads without machined rotors is a waste of time and money. New Pads will never bed in evenly on an old rotor.

[dandragonrage]

Disagree. As long as the rotor is decent, the new pads will wear to match the rotor surface. I deal with rotors maybe half as often as I deal with pads and have never had an issue. Of course, it depends on how bad your rotors are to begin with.

[texn884]

What about if the rotors are drilled and slotted?

[dandragonrage]

I've heard some people claim that slotted in particular can help get some of the crap from the pads out. I never recommend drilled, though. Drilled rotors have a much higher chance of cracking under stress. And drilling doesn't even help with anything.

[texn884]

They look good though

[Napalm]

I too agree that pad bedding is really wasted on new rotors. On old rotors that haven't been cut or sanded, maybe.

with track pads before a track event, maybe.

Otherwise they will wear in, both the rotors and the pads wear. coatings not withstanding.

OH and if you are going extreme on rotors, slotted or plain. I hate (HATE, let me re-iterate HATE) drilled rotors. Even those hey the AMG's have them and they are "cast in" BS holes.

As I say many times, if holes in rotors helps, you would see them on Aircraft brakes. what do you see instead, Grooves. Even on the all carbon sets.

[dandragonrage]

Personally, I am a fan of ATE rotors. They've got their unique slot pattern and a nice coating. Wish they made rotors for the GT. DBA is WAY overpriced and I will never pay for that. It's downright insulting.

[GT Drew]

Drilled rotors have no place on any street driven vehicle. Drilling is a race only mod for lightening the rotor, thats it. No improvement in actual braking. The mass of the rotor is reduced but worse is the reduction of rotor surface area. The trade off for the look is decreased rotor mass, possible cracking in heavy use and decreased rotor surface area. Blank rotors will give better braking than drilled

[JonnyG2132]

Here are my options.. What would you do

Pads
Hawk HPS Front & Rear Brake Pads - 2008-2009 Pontiac G8 GT -72.99
The OEM pads are 92206846 - $125.69
AC Delco pads are 19241441 - $54.12 (ceramic pads)

Rotors
The OEM rotors are 92170769 - $83.98 each
AC Delco rotors are 19241807 - $62.42 each
DBA 4000 Series 6x6 Wiper-Slotted Rotors - 156.00 each


Which combo would you use?

[JonnyG2132]

Here are my options.. What would you do

Pads
Hawk HPS Front & Rear Brake Pads - 2008-2009 Pontiac G8 GT -72.99
The OEM pads are 92206846 - $125.69
AC Delco pads are 19241441 - $54.12 (ceramic pads)

Rotors
The OEM rotors are 92170769 - $83.98 each
AC Delco rotors are 19241807 - $62.42 each
DBA 4000 Series 6x6 Wiper-Slotted Rotors - 156.00 each


Which combo would you use?

I was thinking Hawk pads with AC Delco or OEM rotors

[Executor999]

Here are my options.. What would you do

Pads
Hawk HPS Front & Rear Brake Pads - 2008-2009 Pontiac G8 GT -72.99
The OEM pads are 92206846 - $125.69
AC Delco pads are 19241441 - $54.12 (ceramic pads)

Rotors
The OEM rotors are 92170769 - $83.98 each
AC Delco rotors are 19241807 - $62.42 each
DBA 4000 Series 6x6 Wiper-Slotted Rotors - 156.00 each


Which combo would you use?

After Hulkss chimed in, I'm going with:
17D1351CH Pads, Ceramic, Front, AC Delco
12062113 Rotors, Premium, Front, Centric
17D1352CH Pads, Ceramic, Rear, AC Delco
12062114 Rotors, Premium, Rear, Centric


I got mine at RockAuto (http://www.rockauto.com/)
http://www.centricparts.com/images/stories/120rotors1.jpg

What are the AC Delco Durastop rotors all about? What's different about them vs. our stock rotors?

[dandragonrage]

Aren't AC Delco pads dusty? Or are the replacement pads better than stock in that respect?

[JonnyG2132]

What is the difference between AC Delco Rotors and OEM Rotors?

[WickedMom]

I have Bendix CQ pads on my car and they are awesome. Zero dust, Zero noise, they stop well at the track & in the canyons (not a huge improvement over stock but they do feel smoother) My issue is the rotors....

[dandragonrage]

I have Bendix CQ pads on my car and they are awesome. Zero dust, Zero noise, they stop well at the track & in the canyons (not a huge improvement over stock but they do feel smoother) My issue is the rotors....

That's exactly what I just got in the mail yesterday :) Gonna install them by the end of the week. Gonna just reuse stock rotors since I don't have brake shimmy and they don't have much corrosion. Probably will swap the rotors next time I do pads.

[MoonPie]

I must concur with Puma on the Bendix, they are off the meter awesome.

[JonnyG2132]

where can those be purchased? Part number for those?

[MoonPie]

I have a GXP so the pads I got would be different I believe. Ask Greg@WasSlow, he'll hook you up for sure.

[JonnyG2132]

I did. he has AC Delco or OEM

[MoonPie]

well I purchased the bendix d0150 front ceramic brake pads for my GXP on ebay, $50 shipped.

[JonnyG2132]

ok now i just need to figure out if i want to spend all the money on DBA rotors or should i get OEM rotors or AC Delco rotors?

[GT-610]

I have the Hawk perf ceramics and DB4000 slotted all around...ive been through oems,autozones premiums....both crap by comparison.Called db's supplier here on the forum and the slotteds are their best stopping power with gr8 looks.I dont like the drilled-cost more,brakes worse.
Love the stopping power,definitely worth the extra cash!!!!

[JonnyG2132]

just made my decision and ordered DBA slotted rotors and AC Delco ceramic pads

[AVIDMOTION]

I love my set up, stock rotors(DBA's would be good too) the new EBC REDSTUFF pads, Russel ss brake lines, dot 4 synthetic fluid, flushed x2. Cant imagine any better without spending an arm and a leg.....

[Napalm]

Personally, I am a fan of ATE rotors. They've got their unique slot pattern and a nice coating. Wish they made rotors for the GT. DBA is WAY overpriced and I will never pay for that. It's downright insulting.

actually DBA rotors hold up really well and their iron alloy I think is better. They certainly can't be compared to CENTRIC cheap rotors. Just my 0.03. I like slotted for agressive use, but honstly when I put new ones on gertrude, I think I will get their street series. I have been told it is the same alloy as used in the 4K with normal vanes instead of the Kangroo paw design of the 4 K series.

for the minor difference, I'll try em.


I love my set up, stock rotors(DBA's would be good too) the new EBC REDSTUFF pads, Russel ss brake lines, dot 4 synthetic fluid, flushed x2. Cant imagine any better without spending an arm and a leg.....

Bolded the part that I think is very very inportant. If you have never flushed your G8, then do so. that fluid is old and has seriously depressed its boiling point Thus the mushy feel. also there are better fluids out there. For DD use, I like the cheaper Valvoline Synthetic Dot 4. Nothing wrong with ATE superblue.

[dandragonrage]

actually DBA rotors hold up really well and their iron alloy I think is better. They certainly can't be compared to CENTRIC cheap rotors.

While I have no doubt that DBA are better made than Centric, I don't believe that the difference is going to show in daily driving whatsoever. Rotors will not last forever, no matter who makes them. DBA rotors will need to be replaced down the line, just as Centric will. I've never claimed DBA to be bad in any way, but they are absolutely not worth the money to 95% of us.


Edit to note: ATE Superblue is actually often not recommended for a daily driver. It is meant to be a high performing fluid, but it is not meant to last for a long time. If you want to use it, then make sure you continue to flush it every 1 to 2 years. Granted, you should be replacing brake fluid every couple of years, anyway, but I've read that it's even more important with Super blue. That said, I put Super blue in my last 3 vehicles...

[Napalm]

exactly. I started using valvoline for my DD use, and Super blue for track events. and it worked out very well. lot cheaper too. and yes I was really just saying, I don't trust rotors that cost less than 100 for a car when the OEM part is over 100.

knowing what iron actually costs per lbs refined. cheap rotors are cheap for a reason.

DBA does use a different alloy and there are differences between brands. my only real point.

[fixem2]

Very surprised only 1 person in this thread is using or recommending EBC Red or Yellow pads. I understand the DBA and EBC combo issue, but on stock rotors they should work fine. Am I missing something, as I am looking at EBC red/yellow pads to replace my stock fronts.

[Napalm]

for the money I have gotten to where I use other pads. I like the carbotech's, porterfield's, axxiss, etc. but its like anything really, personal preference.

I really got great DD stopping and performance out of the last set of Carbotech's I had. I will try to use them on the G8.

[fixem2]

I really wanted Axxis pads, but they aren't made anymore, I don't believe. Where you using Bobcats for the Carbotechs or AX6's?

[dandragonrage]

Napalm, it seems to me like you just like to buy expensive stuff. ;)

[Napalm]

LOL, no. I also only buy carbotech base pads not their av6 or whatever race compound. too rich for my tires. usually.

I have also used performace friction, and wagner gold, etc. I found that using a nicer pad, worked better in the long run. Also in memphis BS and traffic, you have to rely on your brakes. HAVE TOO. These people invented the 3 lane change and turn with no signal.

[JonnyG2132]

just made my decision and ordered DBA slotted rotors and AC Delco ceramic pads

These are ok together, correct? I was going to put them on Saturday

[AVIDMOTION]

I have the stock rotor New Formulation EBC REDSTUFF, Speedyracerx has aftermarket rotors and EBC new formulation Yellowstuff...we both love them! I also have the SS russel brake lines and dot 4 synthetic fluid. I also flushed 2 or 3 times in order to get it clear again.

[JonnyG2132]

Ok awesome. Im excitied to feel the difference in the stopping power. I was thinking of getting the SS brake lines. I want to see how they are with out them first

[johnbell2]

For Stock GT Brakes:

17D1351CH Pads, Ceramic, Front, AC Delco
12062113 Rotors, Premium, Front, Centric
17D1352CH Pads, Ceramic, Rear, AC Delco
12062114 Rotors, Premium, Rear, Centric



I just had this setup installed today. Magnificent. Wheel shake that I used to get when braking is gone. NO MORE STEERING WHEEL SHAKE man it feels good to say that.

[Gordon0652]

Hawk Ceramic pads and standard Centric rotors all around. Works awesome!
Lot of people do not understand that with "high performance" big brakes you need tires that can keep up with them also.

[johnbell2]

Update... three weeks with the "hulkss special" on my brake setup. Use has ranged from daily driving to "running with the Corvettes" at the Austin NCCA meet. No shimmy / shake / fade to speak of. I'm using the factory brake lines and fluid, no issues. Brake feel is much improved and less effort to stop as well. If I stab the brakes it'll stop on a dime, no pull and no drama. Last but not least, no brake dust - none.

Thanks for this thread, guys. This was really useful info and real world results back it up. I couldn't believe the pot metal that passed for the factory rotor system, I should have taken pictures of that. You could feel the ridges & gouges in the rotor face with your finger, this was after 30k miles of what I'd consider normal use. The factory pads are also horrible... one of the rear pads actually broke apart in my hand when I picked it up to look at it. Not confidence inspiring :(

[dandragonrage]

Hawk Ceramic pads and standard Centric rotors all around. Works awesome!
Lot of people do not understand that with "high performance" big brakes you need tires that can keep up with them also.

99.999% time, with street tires, the tires are the limitation. The only differences from pads will be longevity, fade resistance in track/racing situations, dust, and noise.