Gauges?

[wreckwriter]

What are the members who currently have blowers, turbos, or nitrous doing for fuel pressure, boost, or nitrous gauges? Are you going without or have you figured out a decent way to mount them? So far all the options I've seen have glitches (mostly cost).

[GRRRR8]

Boost, oil, temp, volt can all be wired independent of the factory electronics, so they should all work the same as a 60s car. Same for Nitrous. Fuel I will have to look at since it returnless.

[wreckwriter]

Sure but what I'm looking for is how they mounted the gauges.

[GRRRR8]

Gotcha. Well I am going to do the HSV pod and use Autometer. Yeah you gotta change trim, but it is what it is.

[wreckwriter]

Gotcha. Well I am going to do the HSV pod and use Autometer. Yeah you gotta change trim, but it is what it is.

I may too but its awful involved, gonna dig for options first.

[G8-SSV]

Double Hump Sports Gauges fit 52mm (2 1/16)
and you still can use HSV pod too
http://forum.grrrr8.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=421&stc=1&d=1229981451

[wreckwriter]

Great except for the price.

[G8GT594]

Are those the $500 dollar gauges?

[G8-SSV]

Are those the $500 dollar gauges?

Double Hump pod? $230-270
HSV pod $320-350+ and you need other interior parts to make it all fit worth $230-250
Total $550-600

[G8-SSV]

Great except for the price.

if you think $230 for injection mold limited production part is too high, you can always use superglue and duct tape.:nah:

:hang:

[wreckwriter]

I've looked everywhere for good solutions to this and, although I think the product is a bit overpriced, I've pretty much come to the conclusion the the JHP double hump pod is the best option for me.

Pros- Simple install, uses standard gauges, removable if needed (as well as easy access to gauge backs if needed).
Cons- only price

[It's A G8!]

Now that you can only choose two gauges which ones are you going with? Boost and fuel pressure?

[wreckwriter]

Now that you can only choose two gauges which ones are you going with? Boost and fuel pressure?

Yup.

[wreckwriter]

Pretty much decided on Autometer Cobalt gauges. Fuel pressure will be 0-100 psi. For boost I have a few choices. I can get boost/vacuum or just straight boost. 30 PSI should be plenty but not sure if I should get the boost/vac (30/-30) or just straight boost (30). Any factors here besides just preference? Seems not....

[GRRRR8]

Just preference, however you can use a vac gauge to optimize fuel economy by keeping it in the vac side as much as possible. Not that that is a concern, just a thought.

[wreckwriter]

Just preference, however you can use a vac gauge to optimize fuel economy by keeping it in the vac side as much as possible. Not that that is a concern, just a thought.

Yea, not a huge concern :) Might go that way anyway though. Another thing to play with on long drives....

What's going to be a good line to tap for the MAP sensor? Catch can line after the can maybe?

[GRRRR8]

I will look at my car this weekend and give you the correct location. Not the catch can though so no oil gets in the line effecting gauge accuracy

[wreckwriter]

I will look at my car this weekend and give you the correct location. Not the catch can though so no oil gets in the line effecting gauge accuracy

Charlie did you remember to look for the best line? If the can line is no good then there appear to be only 2 others. One is short and just goes across the front of the manifold, the other goes from front of manifold back to firewall.

[wreckwriter]

Just preference, however you can use a vac gauge to optimize fuel economy by keeping it in the vac side as much as possible. Not that that is a concern, just a thought.

Ended up going with boost/vac gauge ( Autometer Sport Comp II)

[HSV GTS]

if you think $230 for injection mold limited production part is too high, you can always use superglue and duct tape.:nah:

:hang:

$230 isnt bad for a clip in plastic gauge cover.......... I cant find anything else except the HSV gauge and that works out to be near $2K