VE HSV Gauge Face Replacement

[warbird]

Searched threads on both sites and have yet to see a specific indication on disassembly to replace the white gauge faces.
Since these are damn near irreplaceable dont need a mishap.
Do you have to remove the 2 small torx screws on the back of the gauge to access the face? or do you just "unsnap" cover ring?
For anybody thats done it feel free to add other pointer's if any.

[GeoffA]

Yes, CP posted a easy vid of it somewhere on here.

You do need to take it out of the houseing. Be careful, I broke one of my glass covers at some point.

Once you have it out use a eating metal FORK, slip it under and pry it up. The needle is on pretty good, just take your time. Once it's off pull off the white face and put yours on. DON'T confuse your gauges with the wrong faces or you wont read right!

[Kaos]

Warbird...you are correct. Removing the gauge faces is a monster PITA. I used the "fork" method on the needles when I did mine. There are few references on this and the "other" board. To get to that point though, you have to remove the screws in the back, then use a pocket or jeweler's screwdriver to push in two of the large the tabs on the ring around the gauge face. This the biggest hassle of all, as it it is almost a two person job but you can't really get two sets of hands on the gauge. I think there is a thread here started by MIEngineer about the entire gauge pod install...you may want to start there.

[warbird]

Ok, so removal of the 2 torx will let you slide inner housing out of outer? still need to remove trim ring and lense after that correct?

[GeoffA]

Ok, so removal of the 2 torx will let you slide inner housing out of outer? still need to remove trim ring and lense after that correct?

Yes, the lens comes off. If I remember right the black ring just clips on, you have to pop that off.

Here is the Vid from jeffGTX


the fork removal method outlined in this youtube video worked for me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oYq_l8wLAo


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oYq_l8wLAo

from this thread
http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=12520&highlight=Black+cat+custom

I have the Black Cat Custom Black HSV/G8 gauge faces.



And yes, "it's just that easy"

[warbird]

Much appreciated!

[jzpiano]

Yes, the lens comes off. If I remember right the black ring just clips on, you have to pop that off.

Be careful with the whole thing as everything breaks real easy including the blank ring. It is held on by 4 clips. I just used a small screwdriver to pry (very carefully) everything off and I still had one clip break on me. Not a big deal in the end since I just glued the clip on, but take your time and you should be fine.

The needles are also on there pretty good and do take a bit of effort to get off, just make sure the needles or the case don't go flying when you finally get it off.....

[Kaos]

By the way...be careful putting the needles back on too. If you press down on them too hard they will be tight against the gauge face and the needle won't move freely. I cut a slot in a thick piece of card stock and put it between the needle and gauge face, pressed the needle back on, then slid the card out.

Have you finished yours yet Warbird?


Sent using Tapatalk pro.

[warbird]

I did the swap yesterday, fisrt problem I had was not pushing then down to far, would go just a little bit then bam all the way down to the face.
Only other concern at this point is when reinstalling the needle did anyone else haver a concern with moving the needle or affecting where it indicates?
I dont know if these are self zeroing, but very difficult to not have it move when replacing and reinstalling, set it as close to low scale # as I could but know I moved needle during replacement.

[Kaos]

I had the same concern about zeroing the needles too. Before I removed them I did what you mentioned...rotated to the stop at low end. The gauges appear to be self-zeroing though. Since the install thai park in the same spot and appear to be reading in the range I was expecting. Have you had a chance to see what your "normal" readings are yet?

Sent using Tapatalk pro.

[warbird]

I had the same concern about zeroing the needles too. Before I removed them I did what you mentioned...rotated to the stop at low end. The gauges appear to be self-zeroing though. Since the install thai park in the same spot and appear to be reading in the range I was expecting. Have you had a chance to see what your "normal" readings are yet?

Sent using Tapatalk pro.
By normal do you mean thru engineering mode? I havent installed the gauges in the car yet, may this weekend. Not real sure on wiring, got the pigtail extension from CP, but not real crazy about splicing in to car wiring. I saw where MIengineer made up a plug so he didnt have to. How did you do yours?

[Kaos]

I actually haven't compared to the readings in "engineering mode." I should probably do that...:facepalm:. A friend of mine is a GM tech so he looked up what the normal range is on the oil pressure & oil temp.

As far as the install goes, I went to a junk yard and ripped some of the electrical block connectors out of a couple cars and cut them down to size. I basically followed MIEngineer's instructions...I was a bit leery of splicing into the electrical too, but MIEngineer's plug & play solution really worked out well. Also I have the full set of shop manuals from the group-buy Pace ran about a year ago so that helped a lot too...

[BigV8]

Warbird did you get your gauges off eBay in AU? I've been seeing some show up lately. I also followed miengeneer and a couple others. The main thing is the plug under the steering wheel that you plug into for the gauges, you need to go by the wire colors on that plug and not the numbers. Good luck.

[warbird]

Warbird did you get your gauges off eBay in AU? I've been seeing some show up lately. I also followed miengeneer and a couple others. The main thing is the plug under the steering wheel that you plug into for the gauges, you need to go by the wire colors on that plug and not the numbers. Good luck.
I found them on ebayau and CP bought them, I was converting to smokers pack so worked out well.

[MIEngineer]

Hi everyone...

I've received a few PMs previously on the wiring connector [and a few emails]...

When I made mine I had to grind down scrap connectors I had laying around to make the female end of the plugs.

It was rather time consuming. I'm not sure what extension CP sells [or that I can buy here from the dealer?] to make a few for members. They took me a while, and I am not a soldering pro - I worked with what I had at the time.

Soldering is not that difficult...I wish I made mine differently using longer wiring.

I am willing to make some but I would need the extensions sent to me and I am only doing a few if at all for members here. I've been swamped with work and other things as of late, so it would not be that quick of a turn around.

This also has to be OK with the mods, not sure I want to get into any issues.

Also for splicing for power...I plan to unplug my splice from the headlight switch and move it over to another lead off some other source probably..

I am glad to see that I have been able to help show people how to do it in my old thread.

[warbird]

Hi everyone...

I've received a few PMs previously on the wiring connector [and a few emails]...

When I made mine I had to grind down scrap connectors I had laying around to make the female end of the plugs.

It was rather time consuming. I'm not sure what extension CP sells [or that I can buy here from the dealer?] to make a few for members. They took me a while, and I am not a soldering pro - I worked with what I had at the time.

Soldering is not that difficult...I wish I made mine differently using longer wiring.

I am willing to make some but I would need the extensions sent to me and I am only doing a few if at all for members here. I've been swamped with work and other things as of late, so it would not be that quick of a turn around.

This also has to be OK with the mods, not sure I want to get into any issues.

Also for splicing for power...I plan to unplug my splice from the headlight switch and move it over to another lead off some other source probably..

I am glad to see that I have been able to help show people how to do it in my old thread.
MIengineer, one of those request's was from me. The harness has the matching plug to plug into gauges, other end is just wire's so you can splice into car's harness, really like what you did so it can be unplugged in the future if need be. I can send you the gauge side plug and wiring I got from CP, turn around time is not an issue for me. PM me and we can sort out details.

[BigV8]

Warbird. I got my plugs from a you pull it yard and just looked at mid 80s toyotas and found 3-4. Also instead of just stripping insulation off of the wires and soldering, I cut the wires and used spade connectors, that way if you go back to stock you just unplug everything. I also tapped into the bcm for the dimming and then the headlights switch for the lighting power like miengineer and others did, this is where the spades come in.

[Crazy Paul]

When I made mine I had to grind down scrap connectors I had laying around to make the female end of the plugs.
It was rather time consuming. I'm not sure what extension CP sells [or that I can buy here from the dealer?] to make a few for members. They took me a while, and I am not a soldering pro - I worked with what I had at the time.

These are the ready made harnesses I've been supplying. Gauge pod end has a matching plug, car end still needs wires to be spliced in.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/gauges/IMG_1188.jpg

[MIEngineer]

Warbird- I know :) I will PM you.

Paul what is the cost on that extension or perhaps pn#? Feel free to PM.

FYI I did not tap I.to the BCM and never will at the connections near it. I have 2 taps into the headlight switch only.

I can actually get the other end of that harness locally also.

[BigV8]

All the info I'm giving is for anyone doing this mod and is just more info for people to use. I also purchased the metra kits because they had pins with two wires per pin making it easier for splicing. here is an example of the junk yard connectors (Female) and the metra male with dual wire pins. You'll have to change the pins around to suite.http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt53/Airmech1/100_1565.jpg

[MIEngineer]

All the info I'm giving is for anyone doing this mod and is just more info for people to use. I also purchased the metra kits because they had pins with two wires per pin making it easier for splicing. here is an example of the junk yard connectors (Female) and the metra male with dual wire pins. You'll have to change the pins around to suite.http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt53/Airmech1/100_1565.jpg

Nice!

Might want to add your post to the threads in the How-To area for the HSV triple pack install.

[BigV8]

Nice!

Might want to add your post to the threads in the How-To area for the HSV triple pack install. I will do that the next time that thread comes up.My apology to the OP of this thread if I got carried away about how my install went and offering some info that I thought might help.

[MIEngineer]

All info is good info. Never a wrong way here.

[warbird]

x2, I probably should have written a DIY on the face replacement with pictures but was in to much of a hurry. A big thanks to those who have done it and responded to my questions.