Torque Converters

[G8Smitty]

I see that many of you have discussed replacing your torque converters. Can someone point my to an article or some more information on why it is beneficial? I am not asking this because I don't believe it; I'm asking because I am ignorant and want to know more. I’ve always preferred a manual transmission, so I’ve overlooked the benefits of upgrading the transmission.

Thanks

[Chewy]

Moved to drive train. http://forum.grrrr8.net/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif

[GRRRR8]

The purpose of a higher stall converter is to allow the vehicle to get to its power/torque band quicker. Much like slipping a clutch with a stick. City fuel economy will be effected, but open road remains the same due to lock up function of converter. The average car will pick up .3-.5 with just a converter.

[wreckwriter]

I think the issue we are still to learn about is how the rest of our drivetrain is going to handle the increased stresses of converter launches. The only way to find out is to go for it.

[GRRRR8]

Truthfully it is not like dumping a clutch. I would do Pedders X-frame and Diff bushings and see how the driveshaft takes it.

[wreckwriter]

It's closer to dumping a clutch than what we have now. I agree, the shaft will be the first weak link. Once we replace those it will probably be the diff or axles. Time will tell. hopefully before we start breaking parts there will be sftermarket beefed up parts readily available.

[G8Smitty]

Sorry to be a tard, but I’m trying to assemble the mechanics in my head.

So, a torque converter is essentially the clutch. As the RPM increases so does the transfer of power to the rear wheels (gradual on RPMs I presume). The advantage that everyone is looking for is a higher RPM power transfer, so at takeoff you are not stuck in the low RPM, hence lower torque? The disadvantage that GRRRR8 has pointed out is your city driving is affected because regular stop and go driving will also need to get to the higher RPM to get the car moving.

Does anyone know what is the RPM rating on the stock converter?

Just curious, is there such thing as an adjustable converter (not for the G8 but for any car)?

[GRRRR8]

1800. I think 2800 would be perfect for the basics and 3-3200 for cam, heads etc.

[G8Smitty]

Do you think at 2800 there will be jerkiness from the line on regular driving?

[GRRRR8]

Really, if you are not foot braking it hard you wont notice it. The looser converter allows it to 'flash' to the higher rpm, so normal driving it is almost undetectable.

[GeorgeInNePa]

<div>
(G8Smitty @ Aug. 13 2008,12:35)</div><div id="QUOTEHEAD">QUOTE</div><div id="QUOTE">Sorry to be a tard, but I’m trying to assemble the mechanics in my head.

So, a torque converter is essentially the clutch. As the RPM increases so does the transfer of power to the rear wheels (gradual on RPMs I presume). The advantage that everyone is looking for is a higher RPM power transfer, so at takeoff you are not stuck in the low RPM, hence lower torque? The disadvantage that GRRRR8 has pointed out is your city driving is affected because regular stop and go driving will also need to get to the higher RPM to get the car moving.

Does anyone know what is the RPM rating on the stock converter?

Just curious, is there such thing as an adjustable converter (not for the G8 but for any car)?</div>
Go here, read.

Yank Converters FAQ (http://www.converter.cc/faq/)

http://forum.grrrr8.net/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

[G8Smitty]

<div>
(GeorgeInNePa @ Aug. 13 2008,7:38)</div><div id="QUOTEHEAD">QUOTE</div><div id="QUOTE">Yank Converters FAQ (http://www.converter.cc/faq/)

http://forum.grrrr8.net/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif</div>
Very helpful, Thanks&#33;

[-Ray-]

Torque converter explained (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_converter)

[BORN2FLY]

^^^ hmmmm also. :brock: I Got my FTI 3400 converter installed last night and today it went a 1.73 60ft 11.98 @115 while continuing to blow the tires off on the 1-2 up-shift. It ran consistent 1.7x's 12.0x's, on the other 5 passes I made. With a little more tuning and some good drag radials it should run 11.7x's. :cheers:

[GeorgeInNePa]

Any reason you went 3400 instead of an off the shelf 3600?

[edmanet]

^^^ hmmmm also. :brock: I Got my FTI 3400 converter installed last night and today it went a 1.73 60ft 11.98 @115 while continuing to blow the tires off on the 1-2 up-shift. It ran consistent 1.7x's 12.0x's, on the other 5 passes I made. With a little more tuning and some good drag radials it should run 11.7x's. :cheers:

I knew your car would break into the 11s. I'm glad your car is running good.
Keep Five Yards

[BORN2FLY]

Well, Greg @ FTI was really pushing for me toget the 3600, but I kept telling him I didn't want to go bigger than 3200. But he guaranteed me that his custom built converters wouldn't be overly loose and would be daily driver friendly, so we settle on a 3400.
Man, he was right, this converter hits hard on the track and drives good on the street.:cheers:

[BORN2FLY]

I knew your car would break into the 11s. I'm glad your car is running good.
Keep Five Yards

Thanks Roy. Your old Roto Fab is working its tail off. The air wasn't the best and we had a head wind all day, so most guy's time and mph were a little lower today. Now we've got to get this tune dialed in a little more, especially the tranny's 2-3 upshift....:cheers:

[familycaronROIDS!]

Thanks Roy. Your old Roto Fab is working its tail off. The air wasn't the best and we had a head wind all day, so most guy's time and mph were a little lower today. Now we've got to get this tune dialed in a little more, especially the tranny's 2-3 upshift....:cheers:

Nice set up there. I am very happy with my converter too. I went with the 3600 Yank. With street tuning still needed to be done I managed to drop my 60ft time from 2.0 to 1.8. :cheers:

[m1tankr]

It's not like a clutch in some ways, it doesn't just engage violently like a dropped clutch. It's similar to stock, just higher rpm, but still smooth. It engages higher in the power band where you have more power. Rpm depends on the convertor, gearing, trans, weight of the car, power. That's the basics, very simplified. It's like slipping the clutch & engaging it at a higher rpm. That's why you lose some mpg & pick up power. Your just letting the clutch out at a higher rpm, it's not as bad as it sounds tho. Meaning you don't just slip all the time it progressive (just like the factory one) it's just fully out (ie clutch) at a higher rpm. It also makes the car faster in every gear as the rpm's aren't dragged down as far as the stocker does on each shift, therefor you are higher in your powerband (picture a dyno chart & it'll make more sense) and therefore starting each gear at a higher point (ie more power) in your powerband.

[MGM GT]

Well, Greg @ FTI was really pushing for me toget the 3600, but I kept telling him I didn't want to go bigger than 3200. But he guaranteed me that his custom built converters wouldn't be overly loose and would be daily driver friendly, so we settle on a 3400.
Man, he was right, this converter hits hard on the track and drives good on the street.:cheers:

Just curious if your 3400 actually flashes at 3400? I have an FTI 3600 and it flashes a good bit higher.

[BORN2FLY]

Just curious if your 3400 actually flashes at 3400? I have an FTI 3600 and it flashes a good bit higher.

Yes it only flashes to bout 3300-3400. Greg said it would stall to 3k-3.2k and flash to about 3400, and he was right on the money.