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wreckwriter
02-06-2011, 11:19 AM
Well, I've proved the theory: Lonnie's fuel system can be installed without dropping the tank. I did this install by myself with common hand tools. Much credit goes to Norm for coming up with the idea of cutting an access hole for the fuel pump bucket.

I'll post the steps in the order I did them and will include the pics I have. The pic quality isn't great but it's what I have. Please note that there will be no pics of the actual modified fuel bucket. Lonnie asks customers not to post those and, even though he never mentioned it to me personally, I will honor his wishes.

Pump is available at http://www.lonniesperformance.com/gtog8fuelsystems.htm All other parts were sourced at Summit, Pace, and McMaster-Carr. I use Aeroquip AQD hose and fittings, Aeromotive regulator and fuel filter. Lonnie needs your bucket to modify so be prepared to wait a couple weeks after you send it in. I bought a bucket off ebay so I wouldn't have to leave my tank open.

First, disconnect battery and then cut a fuel pump access hole. (see http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=11070 ). You can use an air nibbler like Norm did but I used standard aviation snips. Be prepared to cut yourself on sharp edges. There's a round indent you can follow. My hole ended up just short of 9" in diameter. Once you get the hole cut find some rubber trim for the sharp edges. I used http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3739/=ax1hqk . It'll save your hands, trust me.

Next remove the factory electrical and fuel lines. The fuel connectors are a bitch. Search here for a thread where I was trying to figure them out. Once you get them off you can pull the pump. You also need to get the fuel line off under the car where it connects to the factory metal line (just forward of the tank, right side of car).

There's a big black retaining ring holding the pump bucket in. A punch and a hammer to remove; standard thread (lefty-loosey). Takes a pretty good bang to loosen it. A brass punch would be safer but I used steel.

When you pull the pump/bucket out be careful. There's a line that goes to the other side of the tank that must be disconnected (and reconnected later). There's also the fuel level float. Just take your time and wiggle it out by turning it various ways :) Installing the new pump is the reverse. Don't forget the line at the bottom of the bucket.

Next get the plastic line out of the way. I cut the end off on the bottom and dragged it out the top. Don't think it can come out intact. To facilitate this and the install of the new lines I loosened the front bolts on the fuel tank retaining straps.

Now its time to put in the new lines. I used -8 for feed and -6 for return. Install a straight connector on one end of each hose then slowly push them (the end without connector) into the space on the right side of the pump access hole (by the big grommet). Take your time and if at first they don't go, try a different angle. They will go through. Once they come out the bottom pull them through and connect the top ends to the new pump. Use 2 wrenches so you don't bust the plastic bucket.

Here's what it looks like (note: wiring is already done in pic, we haven't got to that yet in description):
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-05_17-14-38_100.jpg

wreckwriter
02-06-2011, 11:19 AM
OK, lets crawl under the car. If it's not already done, put it on jackstands. If you have subframe connectors, don't put stands on them as you may need to loosen one side.

Find the place where the factory metal fuel line ends. You may need to cut some off of it. I used a mini tubing cutter and took off a few inches to make life easier. Install a -6 AN compression fitting (hard line adapter) on the end. Then put a straight -6 hose end on your new return line at the appropriate place to meet. Put it together with a -6 flare union.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-05_17-02-56_611.jpg

You're now done with the return line at the back of the car. Now lets do the feed line.....

You should have a bunch of feed line under the car. I started with a 20' length of the -8 and it was perfect (10' of the -6 should be enough). OK, feed the line under your right side frame connector (might need to loosen it) and decide where to mount your filter. Cut the line and add a straight hose end. Mount filter and add another straight hose end to the other end of your cut line. Ends up like this:

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-05_17-03-03_887.jpg

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-05_16-53-08_906.jpg

Moving forward we now need a hole in the frame, actually two holes..( Go ahead and pull your front wheels off and remove inner fenderwells. They're held in with push-pins.). Its a booger to cut through the frame rail. I used a 1 1/4 hole saw (went through 3 of them) and grommets from McMaster-Carr. Feed line through and end up like this:

From rear:
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-06_13-47-25_300.jpg

From front:
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-05_16-53-26_319.jpg

Now we take it up into the engine compartment through an existing oval shaped hole. You need some sort of abrasion protection. I used the stuff I used on the pump access hole plus a split piece of large plastic hose.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-05_16-53-36_740.jpg

The lower left corner of this pic shows it coming up and into the engine compartment:

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-05_16-53-53_843.jpg

wreckwriter
02-06-2011, 11:19 AM
At this point I used a straight hose end to a Y-block (Edlebrock part from Pace). From there I took the 2 ends to the front of my rails. You decide which angle hose ends work best for you. This concludes the feed line.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-05_16-54-04_756.jpg

Figure out where to mount your regulator. I'm not overjoyed with the place I mounted mine but space is tight. Again, using angled hose ends of your choice go from regulator input ports to back of rails.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-06_14-29-51_271.jpg

Get whatever fitting is currently on your factory fuel line off. I used an Aermotive adapter to attach a piece of -6 hose to the bottom (return) port of the regulator.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-05_16-54-13_912.jpg

That's it for the plumbing. Let's get back to the pump area....

Lonnie's system comes with a big wiring harness. There are 4 solder joints that need to be made at the top of the pump. His instructions are good, follow to the letter and use heat shrink to seal. Find a place to mount your relays. I used existing seat studs. If you have seats you'll have to get creative.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-05_17-14-38_100.jpg

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-05_16-51-54_624.jpg

I routed the portion of the harness that needs to go forward along the battery cable to the outside of my seat. There I cut a hole in the floor and used a grommet to get it under the car.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-05_16-54-41_358.jpg

Once it was under the car I followed the same route I used for the fuel line on the other side of the car to get it into the engine compartment.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-05_16-54-26_959.jpg

I connected the power wires to the hot lead off the under-hood fuse box and the negative lead to a good chassis ground. For the Hobbs switch I just replaced the Hobbs from my old BAP with Lonnies. Route a tie-off all wires so pretty and not hitting moving or hot parts.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-06_14-29-22_457.jpg

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-06_14-29-36_466.jpg





Reconnect battery .Turn ignition on and off a few times to prime, check for fuel leaks and fix if found. Fire it up and adjust regulator to 58 psi. Check for leaks. Have a beer or 7.

Final note- there are other ways to route things. My situation is a bit unique because I don't have to worry about my interior. Hopefully this will help someone get started at least.

gr8lover
02-06-2011, 11:28 AM
Nice Job.... Has to feel good to have that done! Now no worries with the fuel!!! Now time to figure out a inlet for the procharger!!!!

wreckwriter
02-06-2011, 11:37 AM
Nice Job.... Has to feel good to have that done! Now no worries with the fuel!!! Now time to figure out a inlet for the procharger!!!!

yea, that would be nice.... Now there's NO room in the engine compartment though. I think scoop is the answer.

Steve
02-06-2011, 11:40 AM
Wow Tom, Consider me impressed! Great job!

wreckwriter
02-06-2011, 11:44 AM
Wow Tom, Consider me impressed! Great job!

Thanks Steve. It was a bitch of a job and cost like hell but I'm happy with the result.

SpeedRacerX
02-06-2011, 11:58 AM
Holy shit - now that's a job to tackle. Nice job Tom!

So now that you have fuel, when you cranking up the boost and pulling in more air??

You sure you can't get that plastic air intake tube on the PC to bend around toward and then in front of the strut tower so you can pull air from down in front? Can you adapt one off another PC setup - Camaro, etc??

Heck of a write-up.

1ChargedG8
02-06-2011, 12:10 PM
Well done!

norm8332
02-06-2011, 02:00 PM
Nice job, great info!

wreckwriter
02-06-2011, 02:02 PM
Thanks guys. Still gotta put a cover over the pump but I have an idea for that. Couple days......

Daniel Linnett
02-06-2011, 03:32 PM
good job man, glad you are running. You went about it a different way then I did and with the money I have in my sump tank at this point I could have done a lonnies kit too lol. That and my spare tire well looks like and octopus of fuel lines but my engine bay is as clean as it gets. Let me know what you put over the access hole. Mine is still open under the seats. Just never have got to it. I am hoping to get to the track in then next month and bust off a mid to high 10.

Darkmanx
02-06-2011, 03:43 PM
WhaT was the final cost ?

wreckwriter
02-06-2011, 06:33 PM
WhaT was the final cost ?

Close to 2k

wreckwriter
02-08-2011, 02:37 PM
Pump access cover:

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-08_17-31-56_828.jpg

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/2011-02-08_17-32-12_553.jpg

Daniel Linnett
02-08-2011, 03:40 PM
what is that made out of?? can you make me one :D

G8GT721
02-08-2011, 04:08 PM
Looks like you can take one of your wife's pie pan


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

wreckwriter
02-08-2011, 04:18 PM
its a 9" aluminum pie pan from Amazon, scuffed and primed. Buy a set of 2 in case you mess one up :)

http://www.amazon.com/OvenStuff-Non-Stick-Inch-Pie-Piece/dp/B001BCNTTU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1297210634&sr=8-1

Tempest2000
02-08-2011, 07:18 PM
I have to say that after looking at your setup... I think I'm going the NA route. That's a LOT of work lol. Nice job though thanks for taking the pics.

norm8332
02-08-2011, 09:37 PM
Nice. I love the pie plate that would have saved me alot of work, and It looks good too.

owensmat
02-11-2011, 10:40 AM
For any Michigan folks (or those willing to make the drive) that are interested in Lonnie's setup, I just had mine done. I was going to go several routes, but ended up going with Lonnie's basket. Victory Racing Engines did the work, including putting together the rest of the kit with braided lines, fuel rails, Aeromotive Regulator, etc. They did a fantastic job and with all parts and installation, everything done, including some extra issues they fixed that another shop had done...$2,100. I plan on giving them a nice writeup when I get a chance, but wanted to add this here now and will answer questions, if anyone has them. @Tom: looks like you did a great job on your install. All your writeups and work has been impressive when I've read about it. Nice job!