Drag race fuel system planning thread

[wreckwriter]

OK, time to start serious planning of my fuel system. Car is race only, planning for approx 600 HP but system should support a whole bunch more in the future. I'm not going to use the stock tank, no need to the capacity. Here's what I have in mind so far, trunk to front:

1- Aeromotive 18667 Stealth fuel tank (6 gal aluminum cell, Eliminator pump) mounted in tire well
2- 2 AN -8 vent lines from rollover valves to Y fitting, vent overboard at bottom of tire well
3- AN 10 line from pump
4- 10 micron filter
5- AN -10 line from filter to engine comp
6- Y block splitting AN-10 to pair of AN-8 lines into rails
7- pair of AN-8 lines exit rails to regulator
8- Aeromotive 13101 regulator
9- AN-6 return line back to tank

Questions I have:

1- Do the lines coming from rails to regulator need to be equal length (I'm thinking not).
2- best place to mount regulator (see question 1)
3- Are my inlet lines big enough? ( outlet port in tank is -10 but my rail inlets are -8 so can't go -10 all the way; could reduce to -8 at Y before rails or could go -8 all the way from tank)
4- Is my return line big enough. Return inlet in tank is -8 but return outlet in regulator is -6 (regulator with -8 return outlet is MUCH pricier). Don't think I can change the tank fitting but not certain.

Thoughts?

[Robert@KBXPerformance]

OK, time to start serious planning of my fuel system. Car is race only, planning for approx 600 HP but system should support a whole bunch more in the future. I'm not going to use the stock tank, no need to the capacity. Here's what I have in mind so far, trunk to front:

1- Aeromotive 18667 Stealth fuel tank (6 gal aluminum cell, Eliminator pump) mounted in tire well
2- 2 AN -8 vent lines from rollover valves to Y fitting, vent overboard at bottom of tire well
3- AN 10 line from pump
4- 10 micron filter
5- AN -10 line from filter to engine comp
6- Y block splitting AN-10 to pair of AN-8 lines into rails
7- pair of AN-8 lines exit rails to regulator
8- Aeromotive 13101 regulator
9- AN-6 return line back to tank

Questions I have:

1- Do the lines coming from rails to regulator need to be equal length (I'm thinking not).
2- best place to mount regulator (see question 1)
3- Are my inlet lines big enough? ( outlet port in tank is -10 but my rail inlets are -8 so can't go -10 all the way; could reduce to -8 at Y before rails or could go -8 all the way from tank)
4- Is my return line big enough. Return inlet in tank is -8 but return outlet in regulator is -6 (regulator with -8 return outlet is MUCH pricier). Don't think I can change the tank fitting but not certain.

Thoughts?


1- No they don't.
2- Best place to mount it is sort of subjective due to personal preference and how you want your engine bay to appear. You could mount the FPR on the firewall, fenderwell, on the engine itself somewhere. Just make sure you keep it away from any high heat sources and fast moving parts and you will be fine.
3- Go -10AN from cell all the way to the Y splitter block then dual -8 to each rail will be fine. That will support 1k+ with no problem. I suggest running a pre-pump filter also. That should be 100 micron.
4- A -6 return line is fine. I run a similar fuel system in my 03 Explorer without any overpressure issue even while keeping base pressure on 40psi.

[wreckwriter]

Thanks Robert!

[locrzn#92]

Dam Wreck, your going all out on this little honey aren't ya? How do you like your Yank? You might have to go to the P-1, its a little larger isn't it?

[GRRRR8]

Dam Wreck, your going all out on this little honey aren't ya? How do you like your Yank? You might have to go to the P-1, its a little larger isn't it?

D1 is bigger/better then a P1. Now Tom is ready for a F1! :)

[Robert@KBXPerformance]

D1 is bigger/better then a P1. Now Tom is ready for a F1! :)

Haha if we all keep saying it enough then he will get it. Tom get the f1a

[wreckwriter]

Need better internals for that stuff! Immediate plan is cam and a tad more boost. Hope to get high 10s with stock motor for at least one season........ If I had forged internals I'd just pop a 150 shot in it and be FAST......

[locrzn#92]

Opppps, got my numbers all fucked up, thanks Charlie. Where is my sheep?

[Boostpatrol]

I have a magnafuel pump, pre and post magnafuel filters, dash ten line to the Y block, dash 8 lines to the aeromotive rails. dash 8 return line.

[wreckwriter]

I have a magnafuel pump, pre and post magnafuel filters, dash ten line to the Y block, dash 8 lines to the aeromotive rails. dash 8 return line.

What regulator allowed for -8 return?

[wreckwriter]

1- No they don't.
2- Best place to mount it is sort of subjective due to personal preference and how you want your engine bay to appear. You could mount the FPR on the firewall, fenderwell, on the engine itself somewhere. Just make sure you keep it away from any high heat sources and fast moving parts and you will be fine.
3- Go -10AN from cell all the way to the Y splitter block then dual -8 to each rail will be fine. That will support 1k+ with no problem. I suggest running a pre-pump filter also. That should be 100 micron.
4- A -6 return line is fine. I run a similar fuel system in my 03 Explorer without any overpressure issue even while keeping base pressure on 40psi.

100 micron pre-filter is built into the system already. Still gotta figure out how to strap down the cell. Aeromotive doesn't make straps themselves so will have to adapt or fabricate. Also have to figure out best method to attach -6 line to -8 fitting on tank. I know there's an adapter out there.

OK, here's one way:

http://www.lpiracing.com/XRP-Flare-Seal-Reducer-AN-8-Female-to-AN-6-Male-Aluminum-1056p45641.htm

[Boostpatrol]

hmmm, its an aeromotive reg. not sure on part number and im 20 miles from the car.

[wreckwriter]

Looking good! What price are you looking at for this project?

Looking to be in the 1500 area by the time I get everything.

[wreckwriter]

I need a better plan:

1 Aeromotive 18667 Fuel cell/pump 6 gallon Eliminator 934.99
1 Aeromotive 12304 Fuel Filter 99.95
1 Summit Racing SUM-220194B check valve 51.95
1 Aeromotive 16306 Controller 319.95
1 MSD Ignition 8913 Tach adapter 84.95
1 Aeromotive 13101 Regulator A1000 149.95
4 Aeromotive 15641 AN8-AN10 o-ring 18.95 75.80
4 Aeromotive 15608 AN10-AN10 o-ring 12.95 51.80
1 Aeromotive 15606 AN6-AN6 o-ring 14.95
1 Aeromotive 15676 AN10 Y block 49.95
1 Edelbrock 76570 AN8 Y block 32.95
1 Earl s Performance 983208ERL AN8 bulkhead fitting 6.95
1 Earl s Performance 992408ERL AN8 Bulkhead Nut 3.25
1 Earl s Performance 983210ERL AN10 bulkhead fitting 8.95
1 Earl s Performance 992410ERL AN10 bulkhead nut 3.25
1 Earl s Performance 983206ERL AN6 bulkhead fitting 4.95
1 Earl s Performance 592406ERL AN6 bulkhead nut 2.95
2 Russell Performance 613110 45 degree AN10 ends 21.95 43.90
14 Russell Performance 610040 straight AN10 ends 9.95 139.30
2 Russell Performance 613100 21.95 43.90
4 Russell Performance 610030 7.95 31.80
1 Russell Performance 632190 AN10 hose 20' 125.95
1 Russell Performance 632090 AN6 hose 20' 86.95
1 Russell Performance 632110 AN8 hose 6' 34.95



$2404.24 Ouch!

[Daniel Linnett]

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Fuel-Cells/Capacity/5-gallons/?keyword=rci+fuel+cell
add exterior pump and you will still save 4-500

RCI is out of Tyler Texas near me and they make quality stuff. I just bought a 1 gallon cell to put in the trunk being fed from stock tank and then using summit pump to send it to the rails.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3137/

also instead of paying high dollar for aeromotive/russel fittings the summit fittings work just fine and are much cheaper. You could also save a good bit of money on the lines by going with the twist lock....whether stainless or rubber it is your prefference. I could do a complete work up on what you have up there and you could easily shave off 1k

[wreckwriter]

I am considering a different cell and external pumps (twin Walbro 255s), just not sure how/where to mount the pumps. I like the Aeromotive unit a lot though, self contained for easy install, AN10 fittings, and its got a sender (which I really need because I already have too many lights and warnings on my dash; no sender = idiot light and DIC warning). I did use cheaper fittings where I could. Most of the Aeromotive fittings are special o-ring boss fittings and are needed for my rails and my chosen regulator. Not with you on the twist-loc; I make my own lines and don't feel this is a good place to skimp.

I could maybe skip the Aeromotive 16306 Controller which would eliminate the need for the MSD Ignition 8913 Tach adapter. Someone I trust says I need it though.

[Devilish34]

2 gallon surge tank feeding twin walbros in the spare tire well with a return to the factory tank FTW.

[wreckwriter]

Why use the factory tank at all? I don't need the capacity so why keep it?

How to mount and plumb the walbros?

Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk

[wreckwriter]

I dunno what it weighs; not much probably. Biggest thing is the hassle factor of doing anything on it. Pump goes out, its I dunno how many days of work to get to it. With the whole thing in the truck I can do anything needed on the spot without help.

May have to go with Lonnie's system. If I pay out the money for the system I had planned then I don't have any money for anything else and therefor don't need the fuel system.

[Devilish34]

Plumb the walbros one each to the fuel rails and run a single return to the tank you want to use........


I'll be honest here I haven't had to worry about this but simple sometimes works

[GRRRR8]

I have found fuel systems are something you do not try to do cheap. Especially on power adder cars. $2400 seems like a lot until you wipe out a piston and then need a $4000 shortblock that you will definitely need a fuel system for since the bottom end will now take what you can throw at it.

Once it's done it's done. Cheap hose, cheap fittings, cheap pumps etc just mean you will be doing it again.

I will have my fuel system done long before I swap the motor. When I do the swap I know I have more then enough fuel system and it is one more thing scratched off the to do list.

[Greg@PacePerformance]

I'll get you prices on your list tomorrow. We can get it all except the MSD
-Greg

[wreckwriter]

Once again plans have changed. I just can't afford this if I want a cam and some more boost before next summer. I going with the Aden/Lonnie system. Talking with Aden now about options and hope to get started soon as I get my car back from cage shop. Greg, I'll PM you as soon as I know what parts I'll need.

[vic2186]

no need to go craxzy when they have drop and go solutions!! good stuff wreck get that baby in the 10s with a nice boost cam and methanol!!

[wreckwriter]

Dunno about no need, just no money :)

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[ketterj]

I made an Aeromotive system in my Twin Turbo HSV. I wanted to keep the spare wheel though. So I made my Surge tank and pump assembly removable from under the car. I made an aluminium "top hat" that I bolted in and sealed to the factory boot floor, after grinding it out :) (AUD$270 for a new floor FYI). In point form:

- AN8 Feed line fed from pump through RHS sill panel, into the front fender well and to engine bay
- AN8 Y piece in engine bay and AN8 Lines to Fast Fuel Rails
- Surge Tank Overflow back to fuel tank filler neck
- All other lines AN10 - cause I could
- Factory fuel pump with Mechanical Regulator removed feeding top of surge tank
- Surge tank lines run over rear subframe and down RHS near fuel tank filler
- Factory couplings used under the car on the return line and fuel pump outlet
- Factory Return line used as Fuel Retun from FPR. Fuel Hammer noise evident this way however
- Fuel Pump Relays and fuses mounted to Amp brackets in the boot, wiring run under top hat to the pump
- Pre & Post fuel pump filters as per Aeromotives recommendation
- MY09 Cars generally have no access panel under the rear seats to gain access to the fuel pump, so you have to remove the factory fuel tank to take out the factory mechanical regulator otherwise you will get epic fluid lockups like me - which basically stalls the engine. Remove said Regulator or you will fail!
- Wheel is about 1/8" above the surface of the top hat. WIN!

Now, some pics!

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/grrrr8forum/IMG_3436.JPG

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/grrrr8forum/IMG_3437.JPG

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http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/hsv/boot/IMG_3175.JPG

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http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/hsv/boot/IMG_3185.JPG

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/hsv/boot/IMG_3180.JPG

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/hsv/chassis/IMG_3112.JPG

Sill panel Inside
http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/hsv/chassis/IMG_3123.JPG

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/hsv/chassis/frontgrommet.JPG

Use your fingers in the bottom holes to wiggle the line thru
http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/hsv/feedline/IMG_3232.JPG

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/hsv/feedline/IMG_3243.JPG

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/hsv/feedline/IMG_3249.JPG

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http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/hsv/feedline/IMG_3259.JPG

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/hsv/feedline/IMG_3267.JPG

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/hsv/feedline/IMG_3273.JPG

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/hsv/jegs/IMG_3158.JPG

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/hsv/jegs/IMG_3159.JPG

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/hsv/surgetank/IMG_3289.JPG

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/hsv/surgetank/IMG_3294.JPG

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ketterj1/hsv/surgetank/IMG_3297.JPG

Enjoy!

[Devilish34]

That is awesome

[Chewy]

That is awesome

To say the least...

I'd copy KetterJ's!!!

[VegasNate]

Krikeeeez, that's some great work right there!!

[G8GT721]

WOW thats badass! Great job!

+1, how much do you think you'd system is capable of?


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[ketterj]

The only thing I can also say is, I used Russell Nylon braid line in the sill panel line - which was an epic fail... as the sill panel breathes into the cabin through small gaps around the place I could always smell fuel. If you run a teflon line you wont smell it. Thats about the only thing I would have done differently. If i had more budget (more than my $4000!!) I would have ripped out the entire plastic wheel well and put an aluminium one in so it all looked pretty. But otherwise it wasnt too difficult, and looking back its probably not as frustrating for someone to copy as it was for me to build :)

In saying this, I didnt remove my fuel tank to pull out the factory mechanical fuel pressure regulator and I had all sorts of dramas. At this point a mate of mine building a drag car wanted a fuel system and he had a spare Harrop Twin Pump tank available, so I swapped him - yes. i undid all that hard work. But for my comfortable street car it made sense. The A1000 pump wasnt too noisy either, but when the fuel got hot it certainly got louder. Some sort of fuel cooling device inline would be awesome (45 degrees celcius here some days!).

Oh and I shopped pretty much exclusively through Jegs, and got everything i needed including all the tools to assemble the lines. Quite a rewarding project and something that thought outside the square! Intense Racing have done a similar setup with a fuel cell and running the lines over the diff and subframe etc, but they lost use of the spare wheel, which may or may not be a big deal to you :)