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Imdubious
10-14-2010, 08:15 AM
Before I take it in for warranty. Thought I would ask you guys. Have 5 codes 4 are for the heater banks on each o2 sensor the other is for the Vapor resurculation solenoid checked the fuse as it is common to all the compontents and looked at all the wiring on the o2 sensors

STL_G8GT
10-15-2010, 06:58 AM
Sounds like youve got the standard codes for headers (need to get a tune!)... and check that vapor solenoid, you may have to move/unhook it when installing headers and the tubes aren't seated correctly.

Imdubious
10-15-2010, 03:48 PM
It did it before the headers where on and I had the exhaust and vararam on for two weeks before it did it

Crazy Paul
10-16-2010, 01:38 AM
Post the exact code numbers.

Imdubious
10-16-2010, 05:36 AM
P0030
p0050
p0135
p0155
p0443

-Ray-
10-16-2010, 07:58 AM
p0030 02 Sensor Heater Sensor Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
p0050 02 Sensor Heater Sensor Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
p0135 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
p0155 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
p0443 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Solenoid Circuit Malfunction.

Imdubious
10-16-2010, 12:39 PM
Is that just the u2 senor saying there out of range? It threw the code at wot when it stumbled a bit.

Crazy Paul
10-16-2010, 04:10 PM
Yes the GM tech info says both banks oxygen sensor 1 & EVAP are on the same EMISSIONS1 circuit.
There's nothing else on that circuit.
Fuse for Emissions1 is F33 rated at 15A.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/Instructions/F33.jpg

It probably wouldn't hurt to check F32 as well , as although this is listed as EMISSIONS2 and supposedly for both banks oxygen sensor 2's, GM have been known to confuddle the naming conventions on oxygen sensors.

Crazy Paul
10-16-2010, 04:43 PM
DTC P0030
DTC P0050
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/Instructions/DTC/codes1.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/Instructions/DTC/codes2.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/Instructions/DTC/codes3.jpg

DTC P0135
DTC P0155
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/Instructions/DTC/codes4.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/Instructions/DTC/codes5.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/Instructions/DTC/codes6.jpg

DTC P0443
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/Instructions/DTC/codes7.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/Instructions/DTC/codes8.jpg

Imdubious
10-21-2010, 07:00 PM
Found it thanks for the help code is gone now!

Imdubious
11-09-2010, 05:35 AM
Its back!

Imdubious
11-15-2010, 04:16 AM
I unplugged the rear u2 sensor as that was the only thing I touched before the fuse popped the first time
I'm thinking it is the evaporate purge solenoid. It pops the fuse the second time you turn the car on after changing the fuse. I do get a hint of fuel smell when I start the car. Does any one have any ideas on this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Crazy Paul
11-15-2010, 06:55 AM
Hopefully it's the EVAP valve because those are cheap.
12606684
VALVE EVAP EMIS CNSTR PURGE SOL E (LS3, L76, BSI) 2009
$22-$30ish prices found online

todds87ss
11-15-2010, 08:58 AM
Unplug the Purge valve, then change the fuse and see if it blows again. If not, there you go. If it blows again, do the same for the O2s until you find the offending circuit. If it still blows with all of the components unplugged, you may have a pinched wire causing a hot short.

andreasue
12-01-2010, 06:22 PM
Before I take it in for warranty. Thought I would ask you guys. Have 5 codes 4 are for the heater banks on each oxygen sensor (http://www.racepages.com/oxygen/) the other is for the Vapor resurculation solenoid checked the fuse as it is common to all the compontents and looked at all the wiring on the oxygen sensors

Thanks for the input guys. Replaced the oxygen sensor this weekend and drove the vehicle several times. So apparently that took care of it.

The most difficult part of the replacement is trying to get your hands up and onto the connector....the assembly line kinda builds around things sometimes...and this was one of them...laying on the garage floor underneath with a driveshaft in your way kinda hinders things....BUT it can be done.

PaFromFL
10-06-2015, 05:46 PM
After my check engine light came on, I tried reading the error codes with a cheap Harbor Freight Autel code reader. The "codes" were $7EA and $7E8, which are not in the correct format. Google turned up similar "codes" for a variety of GM cars. Someone claimed it was associated with a bad cat. My G8 has 4689 miles and has spent an abnormal amount of time idling in the driveway. I use premium non-ethanol gas. Any ideas?

-Ray-
10-07-2015, 02:48 AM
Start a new post instead of bumping a 5 year old post. Get the code read with a proper code reader.

PaFromFL
11-27-2015, 07:27 PM
I finally took my G8 for a half hour drive, and check engine light went away. I suspect the oxygen sensors got dirty during the long idling sessions.