Polk Audio DB6501 Front Speaker Install + Center

[pokey]

The following is the DIY write-up of my speaker install. Included is the install of 6.5" Polk audio components and the install of my center channel. They sound great and I would definitely do again but a big job and the tear apart was a BIG pain. I'm not going to cover everything but try and concentrate on the information I couldn't find on the internet 'G8 boards'. Some of my info came from "Xfactor" on that other G8 board so I have to give him credit. Search out his thread also.

Center Speaker:

By far the hardest part for me was getting this car apart without Fing anything up. And I did indeed F some shit up…but nothing money and super glue can't fix! Lol…so anyway lets get into it.

This cover is a BITCH!!

1. As others have mentioned on DIY write-ups you start at the window and pry-up. (I went to Harbor Freight and bought some plastic pry bars.)
2. There are 4 clips at the corners and one in the front middle. There are also some plastic tabs in the front so don't pry at the front or you will break these.
3. When the four clips are released pull the cover up (moving towards the window a little) so you don't break these front tabs.

In this picture you can see the mounting locations of the cover and my finished install.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2775/4515755395_01d0a97f7e_o.jpg

I used an old Rockford Fosgate speaker I had from a previous setup with a resistor on the positive wire (as others have done to quiet it down a little, look for "resistor mod") and a piece of 1/4" MDF as an adapter bracket.

[pokey]

Disassembly:

Remove a-pillar covers. (cover along the sides of the window which says "Airbag") 2 clips and 2 tabs at the bottom of the piece pointed down.

1. Pull at the top to release the two clips, (easy)
2. Pull up to get the piece past the dash tweeter cover (a little harder)
3. Swing the piece out of your way, you don't have to take off the plastic 'cable'.

4. Remove dash side covers
5. Remove door defrost vent cover (side of dash)
6. Remove lower kick panel (two torx screws each)

Tweeter cover; Pull up/out towards your head. Not straight out (or you will break it like I did) not straight up, but at an angle.

In this pic I put blue tape where the clips are. Hardest clip to release is the one closest to defrost vents. (good luck with that one, I broke both of mine, give that end extra care. And these trim pieces are about 80 bucks a piece.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2697/4474235127_c4a289f22b_o.jpg

Here's a pic with the cover removed and the location of the stock tweeters.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2776/4516089061_c5a3768bbc_o.jpg

Install:

I found many mentions from people who fabricated there own bracket to mount their tweeters. You probably DO NOT have to do this, this 'advice' from others only slowed me down. In this pic you can see mine mounted and I still have about 1/4" clearance under the trim. I used the stock screw in stock location through the bottom of the mounting cup.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2701/4475011006_9b509d7130_o.jpg

To be safe I cut off some of the mounting cup to gain a little extra clearance. As for sound, "imaging" is great no worries.

Speaker wire routed easily through the dash and behind the kick panel covers to my crossovers.

[pokey]

Disassembly:

Door panel; Screws along the bottom, front edge, under arm rest, one behind the door handle.
Metal clips on the top, plastic clips back edge and front edge.
Like the back door panels start at the top pulling towards yourself to release the metal clips on the top and then move your way around.

Install:

Speakers; find Xfactor's posting, he does a great job explaining the install.

1. Remove the stock bracket
2. Line up the Polk bracket, 2 original screws are used, 2 new ones have to be drilled.
3. Cut a piece of Dynamat (or similar product) to mount your speaker on.

Wire; A disadvantage of components is you have to run your own wire. Because I mounted my crossovers in the car I had to run (2) wires, one which connects into the stock wire harness and brings the signal to the crossover and one to bring the signal back to the speaker (from the crossover).

I read most people had issues running wire into the doors. For the front I did not find it too hard only time consuming. If I can do, you can too!

1. Remove the car side of the door boot. Four tabs total, you need to release 2 of them. I used a putty knife and a flat screw driver (top and side) pushing in both at the same time and pulling. Here's a close-up of what you are fighting with.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4515755207_905cc4db2d_o.jpg

2. Next to pull the wire I used a piece of 12 gauge home wire (wire coat hanger would work) fed from the inside of the car through the boot, then taped my wire and a smaller piece of scrap wire to pull back through the last piece once in the car. This is probably the most important picture I can offer on the drivers side.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2750/4515754877_6df4e0343d_o.jpg

3. The green, white, brown wires you see taped up? Those are the wires going into your door, follow them with your coat hanger and you will feel it in the boot. (Push your wire along the bottom of those wires)

4. Be careful to not poke a hole in your door boot. Make sure your wire has a dull point.
5. When through you can tape your wires to the pull wire and pull into the car.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2760/4515754815_d9e62b186c_o.jpg

(gray wire hanging down is the scrap wire I used to pull my second wire through)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2773/4515754971_0553ce2c85_o.jpg

6. Then repeat the process to get the wire into the door.

Pictures are for drivers side. Passenger side, process is the same only a little easier. To find where the wire would run into the car I was able to "stick" my finger into the hole (no jokes please, lol) and see it where I needed to go into the car.

The Dynamat Extreme I put inside the doors

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4069/4516391000_2b1931eea7_o.jpg

A finished pic

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2104/4515755137_71162bea35_o.jpg

[pokey]

I mounted mine in the car on the floor to the outside of the seats. I did this for two reasons. I could get to the adjustments anytime I wanted and most importantly the water I found in my doors. I didn't think getting these electronic gizmos wet would be a good idea.

Trim Disassembly:

1. Move seat forward
2. Pull up rear cover only far enough to release clips
3. Pull out towards yourself

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4058/4515754431_c34abc7845_o.jpg

4. Move seat back
5. Pull up on back to release back 'clip', (Pull up only on the back and only high enough to release the clip)

Pic showing the bottom of the trim and white clip you are releasing.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/4515754365_454e2ec524_o.jpg

6. Slide forward seat track cover (you just released) to get front tab thing past the seat track then lift out.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4516390596_f76c427db0_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2689/4516390500_0dab5fd20d_o.jpg

7. Pull straight up on what GM calls carpet retainer.

Here it is lying on it side so you can see the tabs and clips

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4516389944_308f889143_o.jpg

The mounting location of the crossover (I used some Velcro) Unfortunately I didn't take a picture of it wired up but this location worked great and I can get to the settings from under the front seats from the back seat area.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4515754757_8f1662ac1b_o.jpg

In Summary:

Well that is it, I hope these pictures and descriptions help remove some anxiety and help prevent you from breaking anything. I spent about 3 weekends putzing around taking my time for everything; front and rear doors and dash speakers with Dynamat Extreme. Let me know if there are any questions. Good Luck!

[pokey]

Bonus Tip!

Thanks to Wicked Mom, I found out there is a TSB out for water leaks by the side mirrors. And of course I did notice, albeit only once, some drops of water getting into my car when driving in a rain storm. I recommend completing this while you have the doors open, why not right?

1. Remove the covers behind the mirrors
2. Pull out towards you the bottom of the cover
(just enough to release the clip)
3. Pull down and out

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2775/4516390668_830c4669c9_o.jpg

The TSB is to put some silicone sealant and seal the small hole (with a black pin in it) to the right of the hole for the white clip / pin thing.

http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?13765-08-08-57-006-Water-Leak-Into-Passenger-Compartment

(Don't know if it will help but I'm glad I did it for piece of mind!)

[parish8]

is this your only mod for sound? did it make a dramatic diference in sound. i am not big into sound stuff but the stock system sounds really bad and i might be willing to swap some speakers if it made a big diference.

[pokey]

is this your only mod for sound? did it make a dramatic diference in sound. i am not big into sound stuff but the stock system sounds really bad and i might be willing to swap some speakers if it made a big diference.

Huge difference. I don't believe I have found a person out there who was disappointed in upgrading their speakers in the G8. Any upgrade to any brand is worth it IMO.

I did:
Polk DB651's in the rear doors
Polk DB6501 in the front doors / dash
Rockford Fosgate 3.5 inch in center (w/resistor)

I think also helping the sound alot was the Dynamat I put inside of the doors. This is all I'm going to do except some more Dynamat behind the rear seat and trunk to quiet things down and since I have a bunch left.

Link to my rear door write-up: http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?16016-Polk-Audio-DB651-Rear-Door-Install

[MaxPower]

Wish I had a thread like this about 4 days ago when I broke my pass. seat track trim installing my backup camera :(

AWESOME write-up! I've got a replacement set of speakers on the way, and this write-up will fit the bill!!

[DJ_JonnyV]

Wish I had a thread like this about 4 days ago when I broke my pass. seat track trim installing my backup camera :(

AWESOME write-up! I've got a replacement set of speakers on the way, and this write-up will fit the bill!!

Ha, i was thinking of you when reading through this!!! BTW, let me know when you want to tackle your G8 with the Flex.

[JoshHefnerX]

Thanks for the writeup! Did you happen to get pictures of the backside of the removed panels (center grill, tweeter panel, ect)? That would better show the clips and how they're positioned/angled.

Josh

[parish8]

i dont use onstar or anything like that, can i just unhook that center speaker?

[pokey]

i dont use onstar or anything like that, can i just unhook that center speaker?

Yes, that sounds good also...Better than leaving it, in my opinion. Onstar will work even with the center unpluged.

[pokey]

Thanks for the writeup! Did you happen to get pictures of the backside of the removed panels (center grill, tweeter panel, ect)? That would better show the clips and how they're positioned/angled.

Josh


I checked and I did not... but you can see the mounting spots for both covers in my pictures.

For the center the clips are straight down perpendicular to the cover.

The Tweeter clips are at about a 45 degree, angled down towards the firewall. In my (finished) tweeter pic you can see the mounting spots. They are the 3 (1/2) rectangled openings you can see.

[Mike P]

Cool write up! I can't wait to replace my 2 blow Polk DB651 speakers........ They sound really good....


...

[pokey]

Thanks for the compliment, these write-ups are a lot of work! But worth it to add to the "community"

[2StepsAhead]

Cool write up! I can't wait to replace my 2 blow Polk DB651 speakers........ They sound really good....


...

What happened? I never heard of 651's taking a dump so quickly?

[Mike P]

What happened? I never heard of 651's taking a dump so quickly?

I have a Jensen 760 amp hooked up to the door speakers (db651), power is 75 x 4 RMS. I had the amp turned up to about 60% so maybe the speakers (driver part) didn't like all that power.... :(



...

[parish8]

i swaped out my front speakers with some infinitys. they sound a little better but not the difference i was looking for. much better trebble but the mid sound is all mushy still. i have another set laying around and am going to put them in the back doors. i did cover the middle speaker and that helped. i will have to get in there and unhook it for good.

99% sure i am going to try an amp of some kind.

i can say it took less than an hour to swap the fronts. easy to remove door panels.

[fiveoh]

Pokey: You're using these polk components without an amp? Do they get very loud?

How much did the dynomat in the doors cut down on the road noise?

Very nice writeup.

[GT-610]

Pokey: You're using these polk components without an amp? Do they get very loud?



mine get loud enough to make yours ears ring without any distortion so to answer for him......yes!

[fiveoh]

mine get loud enough to make yours ears ring without any distortion so to answer for him......yes!

You have the components? Your sig says 2 way not sure what that means. Components are going to take more power then a regular 2way speaker that is all in one.

[GT-610]

thats true but he seperated them into the tweet inputs so the power distribution should be roughly the same.The biggest gain in volume with obvious gain in clarity is the fact that any good speaker upgrade will have a much higher sensitvity which allows the speaker to respond to less power-even if its 4ohm

[Belo]

great writeup. subscribing for when i do this someday.

[BAMAGXP]

Just wanted to drop a line. Thanks again though you posted this a couple years ago. It helped me out tremendously this past weekend. The biggest pain in the ass was getting the 16 guage wire through that boot between the door and frame. And how you got it through behind the fuse box is beyond me. LOL. I ran mine up that to a hole that wasnt being used then back down and then placed under all the moldings. I put my crossovers right where you put yours. Another huge help since I thought I would never find a place for mine because they were huge.

I put these in and what a pain in the ass http://www.jlaudio.com/product/0/99617/_/C2-650 . though they are 6.5" they are bigger then any 6.5 I have ever seen. more like 6.75, damn near 7. Anyway, had to put spacers in the doors, shave up some of the plastic fitting and they barely made it in there. Thanks again.

[pokey]

You are very welcome!

The members here (and the forum in general) helped me soooo much I wanted to return the favor a little with this write up. I'm glad to hear it is still helping.

[GT-610]

Only bummer is these speakers didnt last and i replaced one only to have it crap out in months again! I switched to infinity and they are louder,clearer and are still running 5 years later

[JoshHefnerX]

Pokey thanks for posting those pics up on page 1 about the door grommet. I pulled the kick panels off and and saw the wiring mess and said some 4-letter words. Then I found this post, used some welding wire to get the wire pulled out worked great. Thanks again!

Josh