Roll cage?

[wreckwriter]

Has anyone investigated the possibility of putting a cage in our cars? I would be looking for an NHRA legal system, at least 10 point, retaining use of all seats. Possible?

[GRRRR8]

It will have to be custom made, it can be done, but for show quality flawless expect 3k plus for a 10 point. If it was a Stang, $1200, but there have been millions of them made.

[wreckwriter]

Its gonna have to be looked into. I believe NHRA requires cage at 11.49.

[Panther 2]

You are correct. Some tracks overlook an occasional run but not many.

[wreckwriter]

Be a damn shame to put all this money and effort into making ourselves fast and not be able to race.

[MANOFSTEEL69]

We have alot more money to spend before we get there Tom....Lol!

[Featherburner]

Its gonna have to be looked into. I believe NHRA requires cage at 11.49.Rollbar at 11.49 not a cage. Cage at 9.99 or faster.

[GeorgeInNePa]

You you need to start checking with companies like S&W and the like about a custom fabbed cage.Like Charlie said, It can be done.

[GeorgeInNePa]

Rollbar at 11.49 not a cage. Cage at 9.99 or faster.

+1

My old man's B/S NHRA Stocker runs low 10s and is only required to have a rollbar.

[wreckwriter]

Yea, that's correct, a bar will do it. My thinking is though that if you're going that far you should at least consider going all the way.

[wreckwriter]

We have alot more money to spend before we get there Tom....Lol!

Yea but it could happen in a hurry. Best to research early and be ready.

[Big Daddy G8]

Just checking back, has anyone put in a roll bar or cage?

I enjoy track days and am considering upgrading to a 5 pt harness, but all I have read says it's a bad idea without a roll bar mounting point.

I also use this car as my daily driver, and I don't want to have my daughters climbing over bars as I drop them off at school. And I definitely do not want to endanger them by having steal bars in their passenger area.

In a few years, I plan making it a dedicated track car, but until then trying to serve both masters, the track and the family.

[wreckwriter]

Haven't heard of anyone doing it yet. Some guy on board put in a "harness bar" but gave no info on it. That isn't good enough anyway.

[mauricec00]

i will be sending my G8 to a shop here in phoenix some time next week to have a 8 point roll bar put in. chromoly with removable door bars. will have pics up soon along with how much this was.

[wreckwriter]

i will be sending my G8 to a shop here in phoenix some time next week to have a 8 point roll bar put in. chromoly with removable door bars. will have pics up soon along with how much this was.

Keep us informed please!

[Devilish34]

Keep us informed please!

+1 and send money too lol

[r33pwrd]

If your looking for a cage try the subaru forums... they always have good local cage guys! I paid about 1700 for mine BUT I delivered without interior and had to put interior back in myself. (not on a G8)

[wreckwriter]

i will be sending my G8 to a shop here in phoenix some time next week to have a 8 point roll bar put in. chromoly with removable door bars. will have pics up soon along with how much this was.

Any further word on this?

[IcePickFreak]

I know a local guy here that I'm certain could figure something out. I've know him for years (since 7th grade or so lol, 20+ years), he just recently opened his own shop and is doing a lot of custom cages & chassis. His work is top notch. Check out this 25.3 cert cage he did on this Grand National (http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/cars-sale/324698-87-gn-stock-susp-drag-radial-25-3-1600-rwhp-e85-street-race-car-4-sale-sbc-106mm.html) and he was able to keep it looking stock despite that big ass cage, this entire car is ridiculous lol (and for sale!). Just throwing it out there because he does amazing work and is extremely fair on pricing.

Unfortunately I won't be breaking 11.5 and needing a cage any time soon. :confused2:

[fiveoh]

I know a local guy here that I'm certain could figure something out. I've know him for years (since 7th grade or so lol, 20+ years), he just recently opened his own shop and is doing a lot of custom cages & chassis. His work is top notch. Check out this 25.3 cert cage he did on this Grand National (http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/cars-sale/324698-87-gn-stock-susp-drag-radial-25-3-1600-rwhp-e85-street-race-car-4-sale-sbc-106mm.html) and he was able to keep it looking stock despite that big ass cage, this entire car is ridiculous lol (and for sale!). Just throwing it out there because he does amazing work and is extremely fair on pricing.

Unfortunately I won't be breaking 11.5 and needing a cage any time soon. :confused2:

WOW that GN is INSANE! 1600hp on e85, he said he drives it to work 2-3x a week... runs 7's at over 190mph.....

[IcePickFreak]

Yeah I seen it around a few times in various stages of the build, but only once since it's been finished - It sounds ridiculous a WOT. The car is a steal IMO, it's well built.

[GeorgeInNePa]

Any further word on this?

Any good chassis shop can build you a cage.

The tighter to the interior parts, the more it will cost...

[GeorgeInNePa]

Indeed a rollbar would prevent most of the sub 11.49 warnings at the booth.

However if going for true tech you also need 5 pt harness to go with the rollbar, SFI jacket, SFI flexplate, SFI harmonic balancer, engine diaper, trans blanket or SFI trans shield, screw in valve stems, driveshaft loop, no window tint allowed, aftermarket axles, ahh the list goes on....

You won't need the trans shield and balancer until 10.99. Also, the aftermarket axle thing (10.99 also) won't apply to the G8, ours aren't retained with C-clips. Though I suspect that any G8 with a steady diet of sub 10.99 runs will be needing them anyway.

;)

[GeorgeInNePa]

I don't know anyone that puts in a cage and doesn't plan on going 10.99 or better... If your on the cusp and dont plan on going 10's just run 11.50 and be happy and save yourself thousands!

Sure, because picking up those last few tenths is easy.

[GeorgeInNePa]

Whatever.

[wreckwriter]

Yea, good chassis shop, that's the trick.........

[GeorgeInNePa]

Yea, good chassis shop, that's the trick.........

Kim, wagon540, is doing a cage/bar for his car. You have a trailer...

;)

[wreckwriter]

Get 6 point. Needed in more classes and very little more involved than 5. Kirkey makes a seat mount that attaches to roll bar

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[wreckwriter]

I thought about it, if I get any grief I can just have him make the other bar.

Yea but bet its cheaper and easier to do first time. I'm going 6 pt but swing-out only on my side.

[wreckwriter]

Like I said I still drive mine everyday... I can only imagine my wife climbing over a bar to sit in the car.

I checked and 5 pt is legal for everything I would do here.

Yea, I hear ya. I'm only going to have one seat in mine.

[Devilish34]

Like I said I still drive mine everyday... I can only imagine my wife climbing over a bar to sit in the car.

I checked and 5 pt is legal for everything I would do here.

Swing out!!!!! and remove the pins and take the bar out

[gr8lover]

Sure seems to be :beer:

I am wishing you good luck cause "knock on wood".... with what your running my gut says your pistons wont last much longer... I wish you good luck but I see it on the horizon... unless your the luckiest dude ever...

[Devilish34]

I'll be waiting to see how these turn out

[gr8lover]

With what I'm running? It usually takes more then a 100 shot to kill an LS engine, I've seen guys run 150-200 for years with no problems. And even then its rarely sprayed and even then only half pass, I think I've topped my bottle off three times in a year.

Sorry--- I got the impression that you are going to push it even harder than you are currently... maybe I misunderstood.... sorry....

[GeorgeInNePa]

A 5 point bar is good all the way down to 10.00, as long as the floor and firewall are unaltered (rear wheel tubs do not count).

[GeorgeInNePa]

Tubing and materials are ordered and it goes in for surgery on the 10th!

I have to get to work stripping this thing!

PS - Anyone know how to turn off the airbag and seatbelt lights on the cluster?

Message Chris White, he's the cluster king...

[edmanet]

Thanks!

Wreck did you weigh yours after removing the extra crap?


Isn't he snowed in already ??? LOL

[G8GT721]

Isn't he snowed in already ??? LOL

I think your right


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[wreckwriter]

Progress! The cage guy posted a few pics on our local forum of the progress on my bar:

http://www.wvstreets.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37626

[Devilish34]

Progress! The cage guy posted a few pics on our local forum of the progress on my bar:

http://www.wvstreets.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37626

Tom any way you can post them here??? You have to sign up to see the pics on that forum

[GeorgeInNePa]

Tom any way you can post them here??? You have to sign up to see the pics on that forum

+1

[wreckwriter]

Shit, i didn't realise. sorry. i'll get them up tonight, can't do from work.

Can you see them like this?

http://www.wvstreets.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1629&d=1291919788

[Devilish34]

Shit, i didn't realise. sorry. i'll get them up tonight, can't do from work.

Can you see them like this?

http://www.wvstreets.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1629&d=1291919788

nope

[wreckwriter]

OK, I'll grab them tonight.

[wreckwriter]

Here we go:

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/g8bar.jpg
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/g8bar1.jpg
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/g8bar2.jpg
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/g8bar3.jpg
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/g8bar4.jpg
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/g8bar5.jpg

[GeorgeInNePa]

Custom bolt in? Neat.

You should tell your fabber to write down everything and offer a kit.

[wreckwriter]

I did tell him there might be other interest. He's pretty sharp, I'm betting he has all the specs. I will re-mention it. btw- his site is: http://www.rodeheavershotrod.com/ He specializes in Mustangs :)

[wreckwriter]

Just waiting on Tim to put in the door bars. Hoping to go fetch it Saturday but not certain yet.

[GeorgeInNePa]

I did tell him there might be other interest. He's pretty sharp, I'm betting he has all the specs. I will re-mention it. btw- his site is: http://www.rodeheavershotrod.com/ He specializes in Mustangs :)

Next time you talk to him, ask him if he has any installed photos of his Mustang subframe connectors.

[CanadianEh]

looks great!

[wreckwriter]

Next time you talk to him, ask him if he has any installed photos of his Mustang subframe connectors.

Sent him mail. I'll let you know.

[wreckwriter]

Looks good, didnt know you were doing a bolt in.

I saw that mess under the front carpet when I pulled it. Looks like you did a good job cleaning it up.

took all day.

[WickedMom]

I bet that cage guy is plenty happy to be working on a 4 door vs a crapstang.


Sent from my amazing and awesome iPhone4

[G8GT721]

MGM, is you cage being built for the interior to go back in? Or are you going race only?


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[wreckwriter]

Next time you talk to him, ask him if he has any installed photos of his Mustang subframe connectors.

Which ones George? He said theres some pics of custom ones in the pics section of his site, in the "fab" area.

[GeorgeInNePa]

I bet that cage guy is plenty happy to be working on a 4 door vs a crapstang.

Since it appears he's a businessman, I imagine that the money is the same to him. Although he probably doesn't dislike the extra room to work.

Ask your boss if Ford money is a different color or spends differently...

[GeorgeInNePa]

Which ones George? He said theres some pics of custom ones in the pics section of his site, in the "fab" area.

The "stifflers" that he has a pic of on his home page.

ETA, nevermind, I Goolged them, not for '05 and up.

[1ChargedG8]

Looks awesome! I guess it won't be a family car anymore! LOL!

[wreckwriter]

Going to get her tomorrow if all goes well. Will post final pics when I can.

[wreckwriter]

Don't recall seeing anything about that in rules but pretty sure it makes it anyway

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[GRRRR8]

Lookin good Tom!

[GeorgeInNePa]

After looking at your pics more closely, you might want to have them double check the angle on those rear bars. I thought they could only come down 30 degrees or less... could just be the pics.

Unless that's new, I've never heard of that rule.

[GeorgeInNePa]

I could be confusing it with the one bend rule... maybe the one bend can only be 30 degrees.

I've seen rear kickers bent to follow the roof line and rear window, they pass.

[wreckwriter]

Only thing I see about angles is in front engine dragster section. Nothing in bar section.

[wreckwriter]

Never saw that before. Cool.

[GeorgeInNePa]

I doubt they will tech our cars that hard anyways... they will just glance to see we have a bar and jacket and be good.

But this is what I was thinking. Had to look up what my brain forgot. "NHRA now allows rear braces to be bent (one bend only) to a maximum of 30 degrees so that cars can retain the back seat"

That doesn't make sense.

The bend in every bar that I've ever seen is >90*. We're talking like 100-110 degrees.

Where are they measuring the angle?

[GeorgeInNePa]

It's not in Roll Bars, it's in Roll Cages...

http://www.nhra.com/UserFiles/file/General_Regulations.pdf


4:11 ROLL CAGE
All cage structures must be designed in an attempt to protect the
driver from any angle, 360 degrees. All 4130 chromoly tube welding
must be done by approved TIG heliarc process; mild steel tube
welding must be approved MIG wire feed or TIG heliarc process.
Welding must be free of slag and porosity. Any grinding of welds
prohibited. Plating of chassis prohibited for all cars manufactured
after Jan. 1, 2003, unless otherwise noted in Class Requirements;
painting permitted. Additionally, roll cage must be padded anywhere
the driver’s helmet may contact it while in the driving position. For
Advanced E.T., Comp, Top Alcohol Dragster, Top Alcohol Funny
Car, Pro Stock, Funny Car, Top Fuel, and any car running 180 mph
or faster, padding must meet SFI Spec 45.1. Refer to illustrations in
Section 4:11 as well as specific Class Requirements for the
applicable e.t. and body-style roll-cage requirements. Open-bodied
cars running 9.99 and quicker and/or faster than 135 mph must
meet applicable SFI Specification for e.t. (see Class Requirements).
Full-bodied cars running 8.49 and quicker and/or exceeding 180
mph must meet applicable SFI Specification for e.t. and weight (see
Class Requirements). SFI Specifications may be purchased from
the SFI Foundation (sfifoundation.com, 858-451-8868); SFI
Specifications are not available from NHRA Technical Services.
Open-Bodied Cars
When driver is in driving position in an open-bodied car, roll cage must
be at least 3 inches in front of helmet. Cars without crossmember
above driver’s legs must have a strap or device to prevent legs from
protruding outside chassis. On front-engine dragster, seat uprights and
back braces must be arranged such that a flat surface passed over any
two adjacent members will not contact the driver’s seat or containment.
Additional uprights, max 30 degrees from vertical, must be added until
this requirement is satisfied. When non-vertical upright or “running W”
side bay designs are used (i.e., uprights installed at greater than 30
degrees from vertical), adjacent roll-cage diagonals must be the same
size as that required for the upright. Motor mount and/or rear-end
uprights (except rear-engine dragster) may be rectangular tubing, 1
3/4-inch x 1-inch x .058 CM or MS minimum.
For all vehicles required to meet SFI Specification 2.1, 2.2B, 2.3M,
2.4B, 2.5B, 2.6, 2.7B, 10.1E and 10.4 the upper roll-cage members
must have head/helmet guards of one-inch by .058-inch round tube
on all new chassis or at scheduled recertification. Effective Jan. 1,
2007, all new Street Roadsters must conform to SFI Spec 10.4.
Existing Street Roadsters must meet SFI Spec 10.4 at their next
scheduled recertification effective Jan. 1, 2008. No existing cars will
be recertified early to delay compliance.
Full-Bodied Cars
On full-bodied cars with driver in driving position, helmet must be in
front of main hoop. If helmet is behind or under main hoop,
additional tubing same size and thickness as roll cage must be
added to protect driver. Main hoop may be laid back or forward, but
driver must be encapsulated within the required roll-cage
components. On unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheel
tubs permitted), the roll cage may be bolted or welded to the
floor/rocker box via 6-inch x 6-inch x .125-inch steel plates similar to
the roll-bar attachment requirements of paragraph 4:10 in this
section. Unless attaching to OEM floor or frame, the minimum
requirements for a frame member to which a roll-cage member is
attached are 1 5/8-inch x .118-inch MS or .083-inch CM round
and/or 2-inch x 2-inch x .058 MS or CM rectangular.
All cage structures must have in their construction a cross bar for
seat bracing and as the shoulder harness attachment point; cross
bar must be installed no more than 4 inches below, and not above,
the driver’s shoulders, or to side bar. All required rear braces must
be installed at a minimum angle of 30 degrees from vertical and
must be welded in. Side bar must pass the driver at a point midway
between the shoulder and elbow.
Unless an OEM framerail is located below and outside of driver’s
legs (i.e., ’55 Chevy, ’65 Corvette, etc.) a rocker or sill bar, minimum
1 5/8-inch x .083 CM or .118 MS or 2-inch x 2-inch x .058-inch CM
or MS rectangular, is mandatory in any car with a modified floor or
rocker box within the roll-cage uprights (excluding 6 square feet of
transmission maintenance opening). Rocker bar must be installed
below and outside of driver’s legs and must tie into the main hoop,
the forward hoop, frame, frame extension, or side diagonal. Rocker
bar may not tie into swing-out side bar support. If rocker bar ties
into side diagonal more than 5 inches (edge to edge) from forward
roll-cage support or main hoop, a 1 5/8-inch x .083 CM or .118 MS
brace/gusset is mandatory between the diagonal and forward rollcage
support or main hoop.
“D” bar installation for full-bodied cars: For front-wheel-drive cars,
with complete OEM floor (from the firewall to the rear of the trunk)
and rocker/sill boxes, the 1 1/4-inch x .058-inch CM (.118-inch MS)
“D” bars (when required; i.e., when the main hoop is not welded to
the frame) may be welded to a 1 5/8-inch x .083-inch CM (.118-inch
MS) crossmember welded to the rocker/sill box via conventional 6-
inch x 6-inch x 1/8-inch-thick plates. For rear-wheel-drive cars, with
neither a frame nor subframe connectors, but with complete OEM
floor (from the firewall to the rear of the trunk; exception: the rear
inner wheelwells may be tubbed with steel or aluminum), the 1 1/4-
inch x .058-inch CM (or .118-inch MS) “D” bars may be welded to
conventional 6-inch x 6-inch x 1/8-inch formfitted/contoured plates
attached to the driveshaft tunnel. Otherwise, the “D” bars must be
attached to frame, subframe, or subframe connectors.
Swing-out side bar permitted on OEM full-bodied car 8.50 e.t. and
slower. The following requirements (a through d) apply:
a. 1 5/8-inch O.D. x .083-inch CM or .118-inch MS minimum.
Bolts/pins must be 3/8-inch-diameter steel, minimum and in
double shear at both ends.
b. Male or female clevis(es) permitted. Male clevis must use two
minimum 1/8-inch-thick brackets (CM or MS) welded to each rollcage
upright; female must use minimum 1/4-inch-thick bracket
(CM or MS) welded to each roll-cage upright. Pins must be within
8 inches of the vertical portion of both the forward and main
hoops. A half-cup backing device must be welded to the vertical
portion of the main hoop (inward side) or the upper end of the
swing-out bar (outward side), minimum .118-inch wall (CM or
MS) extending at least 1 5/8 inches past the center of the pins. A
clevis assembly using a minimum .350-inch-thick male
component and two minimum .175-inch-thick female components
may use a 1/2-inch-diameter Grade 5 bolt and does not require a
half-cup backing device.
c. Sliding sleeves of 1 3/8-inch x .083 CM or .118 MS, with
minimum 2-inch engagement, are permitted in lieu of the upper
pin/cup.
d. All bolt/pin holes in the swing-out bar must have at least one-hole
diameter of material around the outside of the hole.
Steel-bodied pickup trucks (7.50 seconds and slower), roll cages
are permitted with no back braces if the roll cage satisfies SFI
25.1E, 25.2, 25.4, or the roll cage consists of a 4-point (door car)
cage with a complete SFI 2.4B, 2.5B, 2.6, 2.7A dragster, SFI 10.2,
10.3 altered, or SFI 10.4 street roadster roll cage/driver’s
compartment incorporated into and attached to the 4-point roll
cage. An upper windshield bar is mandatory.
Non-steel-bodied pickup trucks (7.50 seconds and slower), roll
cages are permitted with no back braces if the roll cage satisfies
SFI 25.1E, 25.2, 25.4, or the roll cage satisfies the requirements for
SFI 2.4B, 2.5B, 2.6, 2.7A dragster, SFI 10.2, 10.3 altered, or SFI

10.4 street roadster roll cage/driver’s compartment. No 4-point
(door car) cage is required and no upper windshield bar is required.
On all cars requiring a roll cage, if the OEM firewall has been
modified (in excess of 1 square foot for transmission removal, not
including bolted in components) a lower windshield or dash bar of 1
1/4 x .058-inch 4130 chromoly or 1 1/4 x .118-inch mild steel is
mandatory connecting the forward cage supports.
All joints indicated as tube-to-tube joints/intersections must be
fabricated by properly notching the components to fit with minimum
clearance unless otherwise noted. Crushing the end of a tube to
oval in lieu of properly notching/fitting the tube is not acceptable.
Welding a plate to the side of one tube and butt welding the other
tube to the plate surface in lieu of properly notching/fitting the tube
is not acceptable.
For Sportsman full-bodied cars that require a roll cage (7.50
seconds and slower, including cars inspected to SFI 25.4 or 25.5): If
the windshield/roof bars are interrupted by the dash bar, then either
the entire dash bar must be minimum 1 1/2-inch x .058-inch CM
(.118-inch MS) or the entire dash bar must be minimum 1 1/4-inch x
.058-inch CM (.118-inch MS) and must be braced with gussets to
both the upper and lower sections of each windshield/roof bar. The
gussets may be either 1.75-inch x 1.75-inch x .110-inch (with one
1/2-inch-diameter and two 5/16-inch-diameter holes maximum)
4130 CM or MS plate (triangle shaped) or 3/4-inch x.049-inch CM
(.118-inch MS) tubing at least 4 inches long. An interrupted
windshield/roof bar is defined as one that has been completely
severed into upper and lower sections/pieces and then the
sections/pieces are welded to the dash bar.That wording isn't in Roll Bars...

4:10 ROLL BAR
All roll bars must be within 6 inches of the rear, or side, of the
driver’s head, extend in height at least 3 inches above the driver’s
helmet with driver in normal driving position or be within 1 inch of
the roof/headliner in the area above the driver's helmet, and be at
least as wide as the driver's shoulders or within 1 inch of the
driver's door. Roll bar must be adequately supported or crossbraced
to prevent forward or lateral collapse. Rear braces must be
of the same diameter and wall thickness as the roll bar and
intersect with the roll bar at a point not more than 5 inches from the
top of the roll bar. Crossbar and rear braces must be welded to
main hoop. Sidebar must be included on driver’s side and must
pass the driver at a point midway between the shoulder and elbow.
Swing-out sidebar permitted. All roll bars must have in their
construction a cross bar for seat bracing and as the shoulder
harness attachment point; cross bar must be installed no more than
4 inches below, and not above, the driver’s shoulders or to side bar.
All vehicles with OEM frame must have roll bar welded or bolted to
frame; installation of frame connectors on unibody cars does not
constitute a frame; therefore it is not necessary to have the roll bar
attached to the frame. Unibody cars with stock floor and firewall
(wheeltubs permitted) may attach roll bar with 6-inch x 6-inch x
.125-inch steel plates on top and bottom of floor bolted together
with at least four 3/8-inch bolts and nuts, or weld main hoop to
rocker sill area with .125-inch reinforcing plates, with plates welded
completely. All 4130 chromoly tube welding must be done by
approved TIG heliarc process; mild steel welding must be done by
approved MIG wire feed or approved TIG heliarc process. Welding
must be free of slag and porosity. Any grinding of welds prohibited.
See illustration. Roll bar must be padded anywhere driver’s helmet
may contact it while in driving position. Adequate padding must
have minimum 1/4-inch compression or meet SFI Spec 45.1. All
cars running 180 mph or faster, SFI Spec 45.1 mandatory.That's strange...

PS:
That's the 2010 PDF Gen Reg

[wreckwriter]

Finished pics:

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/g8bar6.jpg
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/g8bar7.jpg
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/g8bar8.jpg
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii262/wreckwriter/g8bar9.jpg

[wreckwriter]

Looks nice! They paint or powdercoat it?

Paint. btw- 41 degrees on the back bars :)

[Devilish34]

Looks good Tom

[wreckwriter]

now for the fuckin fuel system............

[travis gore]

looks good Tom. thanks for the pics,nice to see how everything is run under the carpet. Are you leaving the door panels on?

[-Ray-]

Cool Tom. 1st G8 GT in the states with a bar.

EDIT:

[wreckwriter]

Yea, leaving door panels at least for now.

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[wreckwriter]

Too much else to think about now. Likely I'll get around to it.

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[wreckwriter]

All depends on how the fuel system goes, and how much I end up spending. Still going back and forth on which way to go.

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[norm8332]

Very nice job, looks good. Tom, do you still have the DOD hardware? a DOD delete would allow you to rev higher at the very least. Plus lower boost, lower IATs, etc.

[wreckwriter]

Very nice job, looks good. Tom, do you still have the DOD hardware? a DOD delete would allow you to rev higher at the very least. Plus lower boost, lower IATs, etc.

Yea, DoD delete coming for sure. Just got to get the fuel system worked out first.

[Devilish34]

Yea, DoD delete coming for sure. Just got to get the fuel system worked out first.

are you just doing the delete or are you doing the bottom end too?

[wreckwriter]

are you just doing the delete or are you doing the bottom end too?

Just cam and delete