Waxing by hand

[Gordon Freeman]

I’ve never used a machine to wax my cars. I’m concerned I may burn or damage the paint. So what I’m looking for is a wax that can be applied and removed by hand. Adam’s brand I’m guessing but which one?

thanks..

[BlueJacket]

http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-423-adams-americana-premium-carnauba-paste-wax.aspx

Americana is the best wax I have ever used and is very easy to do by hand.

[fiveoh]

Or for a cheaper alternative that is good as well get Adams Buttery Wax.

[Bhuge]

I use the Buttery wax. I have never used a machine polisher either. But I ordered the dual action polisher kit figured I would give it a try. I am told as long as you don't hold the polisher in one place for awhile you won't damage the paint.

[BlueJacket]

I use the Buttery wax. I have never used a machine polisher either. But I ordered the dual action polisher kit figured I would give it a try. I am told as long as you don't hold the polisher in one place for awhile you won't damage the paint.

As long as you are using a random orbiter like the Porter Cable you will never (well never say never) burn your paint.

[rmcrom]

As long as you are using a random orbiter like the Porter Cable you will never (well never say never) burn your paint.

I second this. Randorm orbitals are very safe when it comes to avoiding paint burns and swirl marks.

[-Ray-]

I use the Buttery wax. I have never used a machine polisher either. But I ordered the dual action polisher kit figured I would give it a try. I am told as long as you don't hold the polisher in one place for awhile you won't damage the paint.

With wax, you would have to stand there for hours before you hurt the paint.

[r33pwrd]

I might have to try this whole waxing a car thing... honestly I have never waxed a car. (Ok I did when I was like 16) do you get a better result with the orbital buffer vs hand? My car has a ton of swirl marks in it and I was going to pay to get it done but 300 bucks could be spent in a better way

[BlueJacket]

I might have to try this whole waxing a car thing... honestly I have never waxed a car. (Ok I did when I was like 16) do you get a better result with the orbital buffer vs hand? My car has a ton of swirl marks in it and I was going to pay to get it done but 300 bucks could be spent in a better way

Wax alone is not going to get rid of your swirl marks and IMO using a buffer for wax dose not make for a better wax job over doing it by hand. Wax will give you a finishing shine and will protect the paint but to remove swirls you need use a buffer and some swirl remover.

If you want to get rid of your swirls I would suggest you get this kit http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-338-adams-7424xp-dual-action-car-polishing-kit.aspx and after that learn the proper way to wash your car by hand so that you do not get the swirls back. Check out these videos http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-videos.aspx

[mikemaj82]

I use Liquid Glass. It adds hard layers of protection every time you use it and over time, you can throw rocks at the car and it won't hurt the paint.

[gearhead455]

After I wax the car by hand,I use the orbital with the fluffy polishing pad just to bring out more shine.

[BlueJacket]

I use Liquid Glass. It adds hard layers of protection every time you use it and over time, you can throw rocks at the car and it won't hurt the paint.

lol I hope that was a joke.

[Rick Maddux]

As long as you are using a random orbiter like the Porter Cable you will never (well never say never) burn your paint.
__________________



This is why I am ordering the PC and kit. I like the way it looks.:cheers:

[mikemaj82]

lol I hope that was a joke.

why? The stuff is very hard to find these days, and it works.

[BlueJacket]

why? The stuff is very hard to find these days, and it works.

Come on your putting me on. There is no way you believe that. There is no wax that is going to protect your paint from rock chips.

[GPDAN]

Come on your putting me on. There is no way you believe that. There is no wax that is going to protect your paint from rock chips.

+1.

[2StepsAhead]

Meguiars #16, or Collinite Insulator Wax for the winter. Any wax should be able to apply and remove by hand...reason people use a machine is because you can spread the wax more evenly, use less product, easier to buff off when theres less build up.

The way you burn paint is by too harsh of a pad, too harsh of polish/compound, heat and pressure...mainly a combo of all of them. As long as you use a wax/glaze pad, at a moderate speed and dont fall asleep on the da you'll be fine.

Use any reputable brand wax, use a larger pad (smaller pads cut faster), use enough product (if the pad is stiff and dry it will cause micro marring), smear it around and work it into the paint. It sounds more complicated then it is...if you have any questions you feel are silly you could pm me and Ill walk you thru it.

[GPDAN]

butter wax by Adams is the easiest and best wax to get results.

[TxNessie84]

Meguairs #16 is the shit. I bought two tins of it from some place in Canada, it's a shame they don't sell it in the US anymore.

[kevinm0131]

why? The stuff is very hard to find these days, and it works.
Color me skeptical. But, this did cause me to think about my Dad. He bought some of the original formula stuff at a county fair one time. He always liked it and always had trouble finding it too. I did a quick google and presto:

http://www.liquidglass.com/index.htm

You can buy it online! .....still skeptical though.

Kevin

[BlueJacket]

Color me skeptical. But, this did cause me to think about my Dad. He bought some of the original formula stuff at a county fair one time. He always liked it and always had trouble finding it too. I did a quick google and presto:

http://www.liquidglass.com/index.htm

You can buy it online! .....still skeptical though.

Kevin

Is this the guy that sold it to your dad. lol

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_oTwEGiup_Wo/ShLa_cvHQaI/AAAAAAAAEsg/LlPyWSvOHd4/s400/snakeoil.jpg

[rez0nance]

Is this the guy that sold it to your dad. lol

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_oTwEGiup_Wo/ShLa_cvHQaI/AAAAAAAAEsg/LlPyWSvOHd4/s400/snakeoil.jpg

LOL. Sucker born every minute...

[BLKG8]

You can find "liquidglass" at PEP Boys...Dont think it'll cover youre paint from rocks..but yeah.

[AZG8GT]

you should use a clay bar before you wax. takes all the crap off your paint and allowas a good wax.

[AZG8GT]

As far as swirl marks im not sure how you would get rid of them. buffing I guess

[mikemaj82]

you can say what you want about it, but i've been using it for over 9 years on three different cars, and the protection is amazing. My neighbor introduced me to it because he's an old school car guy and knows more than the average consumer about cars. I clean my cars a LOT, and thoroughly. I notice if there are any new chips or scrapes or anything else that wasn't there last time. You can't just put a single coat of this stuff on and leave it though. You have to put a few coats on within a week or two to get it to build up. If you don't believe it, what's $20 to buy a can and try it?

[BLKG8]

I think it works good, but my respects to the rock. I like to polish, condition, seal it and apply a wax to give it a deep wet look...haven't had to clay it yet.

[BlueJacket]

you can say what you want about it, but i've been using it for over 9 years on three different cars, and the protection is amazing. My neighbor introduced me to it because he's an old school car guy and knows more than the average consumer about cars. I clean my cars a LOT, and thoroughly. I notice if there are any new chips or scrapes or anything else that wasn't there last time. You can't just put a single coat of this stuff on and leave it though. You have to put a few coats on within a week or two to get it to build up. If you don't believe it, what's $20 to buy a can and try it?

If you like it that's all that maters, but its not stopping rock chips no mater how many costs you put on.

[r33pwrd]

Wax alone is not going to get rid of your swirl marks and IMO using a buffer for wax dose not make for a better wax job over doing it by hand. Wax will give you a finishing shine and will protect the paint but to remove swirls you need use a buffer and some swirl remover.

If you want to get rid of your swirls I would suggest you get this kit http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-338-adams-7424xp-dual-action-car-polishing-kit.aspx and after that learn the proper way to wash your car by hand so that you do not get the swirls back. Check out these videos http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-videos.aspx

thanks for th input... and for the record my car came from the dealership with swirl marks :(

[BlueJacket]

thanks for th input... and for the record my car came from the dealership with swirl marks :(

Your not alone, most dealer prep sucks.

[2StepsAhead]

you should use a clay bar before you wax. takes all the crap off your paint and allowas a good wax.

You should be waxing your car far more times then claying it, usually people clay twice a year unless something happens. Claying almost always leaves it's own micro marring so I wouldn't over do it, waxing depends on how long you can get proper protection. Sealants usually last a bit longer and require less touching up. I was waxing my car every month or two and using spray waxes after washes to touch up and keep the protection lasting a little longer between full waxes.

[BlueJacket]

A great way to tell if you need to clay bar the car or not is to wash the car and dry it. Then stick you hand in a sandwich bag and run it over your paint. If you can feel a large number of bumps claying might be a good idea. It is also a good idea to follow up claying with a buffer and Adams Swirl and Haze remover, Adams Polish and then wax. If you have any detailing questions check out the videos that I posted up at the top of this thread. They will take you step by step how on to detail your car.

[BLKG8]

There's alot of good products out there. You just have to try them and find the best for your need. Some are priced higher and do the same as the cheeper ones. And for swirls, you need to use a machine with a swirl remove.
TELECA-/2.0 (BREW 3.1.5; U; EN-US; SAMSUNG; SPH-M810; Teleca/Q05A/INT) MMP/2.0 Profile/MIDP-2.1 Configuration/CLDC-1.1

[familycaronROIDS!]

I preffer to do it by hand everytime. Even when I have taken it to the detail shop I buy the by hand package.. I have heard some horror stories in regards to machine waxing.

[Harry71GTO]

I use Liquid Glass. It adds hard layers of protection every time you use it and over time, you can throw rocks at the car and it won't hurt the paint.

+1 on Liquid Glass. Great stuff!

[todds87ss]

I also used to use Liquid glass. Back in the 80s. Before clear coats. When mullets were in style. Before Zaino or Adams. The science of paint has come a long way in 25 years. I chose to change with it. If we did not change, we'd all still be using Turtle wax or Simonize. It is your paint, though.

[GrandPrix98GT]

A great way to tell if you need to clay bar the car or not is to wash the car and dry it. Then stick you hand in a sandwich bag and run it over your paint. If you can feel a large number of bumps claying might be a good idea. It is also a good idea to follow up claying with a buffer and Adams Swirl and Haze remover, Adams Polish and then wax. If you have any detailing questions check out the videos that I posted up at the top of this thread. They will take you step by step how on to detail your car.

Thanks for the tip on claying. Once it gets a little nicer (warmer), or I can use the garage.... I need to give some TLC to my car.

[mikemaj82]

Q. Is Liquid Glass Polish/Finish safe for use on new car finishes with clear coat paint?

A. Yes. Liquid Glass Polish/Finish contains no abrasives or cleaners, and is perfectly safe for all paint finishes including clear coat. In fact, many new and used car dealers coat their vehicles with Liquid Glass Polish/Finish before they are placed on the showroom floor.

Zaino and Liquid Glass rate the same, at least that's what I've seen on many automotive forums.

[BlueJacket]

Q. Is Liquid Glass Polish/Finish safe for use on new car finishes with clear coat paint?

A. Yes. Liquid Glass Polish/Finish contains no abrasives or cleaners, and is perfectly safe for all paint finishes including clear coat. In fact, many new and used car dealers coat their vehicles with Liquid Glass Polish/Finish before they are placed on the showroom floor.Zaino and Liquid Glass rate the same, at least that's what I've seen on many automotive forums.

That right there is reason enough not to use it. Dealer prep sucks and they know very little when it comes to cars and there care. lol ;)

But seriously if it works for you go ahead and use it just don't claim crazy things like it prevents rock chips because nothing short of a clear bra are going to do that.

And I will take Adams over Zaino any day for a number of reasons first being that it works best for me.

[dukeofpg]

I use Liquid Glass. It adds hard layers of protection every time you use it and over time, you can throw rocks at the car and it won't hurt the paint.

My paint comes off when the wind blows!!

[mikemaj82]

well, all I have to say is, I knew about the G8's paint problem before I bought it, and I must have waxed it no less than 4 times within a month after buying it. I am having zero problems with the paint. The ultimate test will come this spring, when I do a full wash/claybar/wax on the car, and see how the paint looks. But even now, even in the snow and salt, the car still has a nice shine to it.

And I don't see what the big deal is about claiming is protects against rock chips....read about any good quality wax on their website and they will mention that it protects against road debris and elements.

[rez0nance]

well, all I have to say is, I knew about the G8's paint problem before I bought it, and I must have waxed it no less than 4 times within a month after buying it. I am having zero problems with the paint. The ultimate test will come this spring, when I do a full wash/claybar/wax on the car, and see how the paint looks. But even now, even in the snow and salt, the car still has a nice shine to it.

And I don't see what the big deal is about claiming is protects against rock chips....read about any good quality wax on their website and they will mention that it protects against road debris and elements.

:facepalm2:

It protects the paint chemically. A wax or sealant cannot protect the paint physically; the only thing left behind when you buff it off is a microscopic level a few microns thick. Jeez it's not freaking rocket science.

But never mind that, how would you like to buy some pristine wetlands in the Everglades?

[mikemaj82]

:facepalm2:

A wax or sealant cannot protect the paint physically;


unless you can prove that statement, I'll never believe it.

http://www.evosoul.com/blog/?p=617

http://www.carpaintchiprepair.com/blog/ (some tips on paint chip repair)

And Liquid Glass Legend: Stone chip resistant after 25 coats: http://www.liquidglass.com/legend.htm

[BlueJacket]

unless you can prove that statement, I'll never believe it.

http://www.evosoul.com/blog/?p=617

http://www.carpaintchiprepair.com/blog/ (some tips on paint chip repair)

And Liquid Glass Legend: Stone chip resistant after 25 coats: http://www.liquidglass.com/legend.htm

Prove your statement and not with info from their web site. I want to see a video of you tossing (and not some wimp wristed toss) a rock at your own car. If you really believe in this product you should have no problem proving us wrong.

I like how they use the term "resistant". lol What a crock.

[Ben@Adams]

Sorry I missed this thread until now, allow me to throw my 2 pennies worth into the ring and hopefully shed some light on some things.


I’ve never used a machine to wax my cars. I’m concerned I may burn or damage the paint. So what I’m looking for is a wax that can be applied and removed by hand. Adam’s brand I’m guessing but which one?

thanks..

If you want to stick with a hand process our buttery wax is an easy on easy off cost effective product that will give you great shine, depth, and durability for the money. We 110% percent guarantee it to outperform anything you can get over the counter at your local autoparts store. We will literally refund your purchase price + 10% and shipping if you are unsatisfied with the product for any reason.

To this day its still one of our most popular products just b/c its so easy to use and the results are so outstanding.

If you want something truly special you'd want our Americana Premium Paste wax. This product is a no holding back, no compromises, quality at all costs formulation that is hand mixed, hand poured, and hand packaged in small batches and will blow products out of the water costing 2-3x as much. Its not for everyone, but if you're nuts about your car and want only the best this is the stuff for you.

Feel free to drop me a line if you want any clarification, but also keep in mind the best wax in the world won't do much for you without the right prep. Any good detailer will tell you that 90% of the shine is in the prep, that means cleaning, claying, polishing... without those elements you're spreading good product over an imperfect surface which will always get you less than perfect results.


I use the Buttery wax. I have never used a machine polisher either. But I ordered the dual action polisher kit figured I would give it a try. I am told as long as you don't hold the polisher in one place for awhile you won't damage the paint.

Literally... with the most aggressive polish in our line (Swirl & Haze Remover) and the corresponding orange pad you could literally hold the porter cable over the same spot for 10 minutes straight and never cut thru the paint. The reason is that its a DA polisher... as in dual action... it oscillates in a random orbit, generating no heat, thus generating almost no cut to the finish. If you want evidence of the safety of the porter cable watch the videos here:

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4034

We often joke at our clinics that the only way you could damage your car with the porter cable is to flip it over and pound your hood with it. :D


I might have to try this whole waxing a car thing... honestly I have never waxed a car. (Ok I did when I was like 16) do you get a better result with the orbital buffer vs hand? My car has a ton of swirl marks in it and I was going to pay to get it done but 300 bucks could be spent in a better way

Theres something to understand here:

Waxing does not remove swirls or scratches. "waxing" is the process of applying a thin protective layer(s) of a product to your paint. These products can be natural (carnuba) synthetic (polymer) or a blend. The ratios and quality of ingredients translate to different characteristics. Synthetics tend to offer more durable protection while natural products tend to offer deeper wetter shine and gloss.

To remove swirls and scratches you need a machine. No one can move their hand fast enough and consistent enough to match the capabilities of the PC moving at 6000 oscillations per minute. Nor can you recreate the consistent contact of the foam pad.

You can REDUCE the appearance of swirls and scratches with our hand products, but you certainly won't remove them entirely, its just not realistic. The key is to define your own personal level of satisfaction and aim for that. A flawlessly perfect finish on a daily driven car isn't a realistic goal for a lot of people, but a car that looks better than 99% of the ones on the road is and that can be done by hand in most cases... the machine makes things easier and gives you an edge on more sever swirling and scratches that you'd otherwise have to just live with.

For what its worth, the cost of a quality detail including paint correction/swirl removal will typically run you $350+/-. For that price you can purchase all of the supplies, including the porter cable, and do it yourself many many many many times over. A single kit with the 16oz polishes will last you a very long time.


I use Liquid Glass. It adds hard layers of protection every time you use it and over time, you can throw rocks at the car and it won't hurt the paint.

LOL... if you like it thats fine, but the idea that a product that is applied to your paint at mere microns thick, even dozens of layers, could withstand the impact of a hard object at speed is not only laughable it would be down right irresponsible of a company to claim that. Don't you think if this breakthru technology had been as effective as they claim it would have already completely dominated the market and replaced the need for things like 3M's clear bra?

It reminds me of a sealant product that is marketed on the premise its used to protect battleships radars and only needs to be applied once every 5 years. I'm sorry but these "it will withstand a 12 megaton nuclear blast" claims are just down right laughable... they defy the laws of the known universe.

Again, if you like the way your car looks under a coat of it, great, but don't drink the crazy claim kool aide.


Meguairs #16 is the shit. I bought two tins of it from some place in Canada, it's a shame they don't sell it in the US anymore.

I think it had something to do with EPA standards and manufacturing... same thing as our In & Out Spray and the California environmental standards. Its crazy how much that can impact a product design or force it out of the US.


thanks for th input... and for the record my car came from the dealership with swirl marks :(

Yep, dealer installed swirl marks. The option no body wants, but everybody gets.


I preffer to do it by hand everytime. Even when I have taken it to the detail shop I buy the by hand package.. I have heard some horror stories in regards to machine waxing.

You've definitely never heard any horror stories about machine WAXING as its not removing any clear so theres no damage to be done. Machine polishing, more specifically rotary polishing is the thing that gets the bad wrap, and thats thanks to hack jobs who claim to be detailers doing sloppy work with professional grade tools. I'll reiterate that the PC is not a rotary polisher and thus it is safe for use by even the most inexperience of detailers. Our entire business is built on the premise of educating the consumer on how to effectively use tools like the PC to maximize their detailing experience and it would be irresponsible of us to put potentially dangerous tools in the hands of amateurs... 10 years of this and we've shown literally 10's of thousands of people how to use the PC, often times in little more than a few hours at a detail clinic.

There are a lot of members on this very forum I have taught using online videos, emails, and coaching via forums to use the PC. Others that I've had the pleasure of meeting at detail clinics... if we were selling anything that wasn't safe for you to pick up and use you'd have heard it by now.


Zaino and Liquid Glass rate the same, at least that's what I've seen on many automotive forums.

Not even close, but I'm not going to get into that discussion as those are 2 products that I do not represent and I'm not going to sit here and make claims on their behalf on what one does versus the other.

If you guys want some REAL education on proper detailing techniques you should mozy on over to our forums and watch the porter cable videos by the member named Junkman2008... or check out our instructional videos that come in DVD forum with our machine polishing kits... again, we'd never sell anything if we thought you'd damage your car with it. We haven't become the company we have by leading people down the wrong path. http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-videos.aspx

[Gordon Freeman]

well, all I have to say is, I knew about the G8's paint problem before I bought it, and I must have waxed it no less than 4 times within a month after buying it.


The paint problem is this how thin the paint is on these cars? I got my car January 14th, 10 so I’m still learning. I already have a couple of stone chips. I wasn’t aware of issues with the paint until I joined this forum. But I’m still glad I bought the G8 and I love the car.

Thanks for the replies and a special thanks to Dylan@Adams for the in depth information.

While we’re on the subject of waxing I want to ask if a car with a fresh coat of wax wouldn’t get a little better mpg on the expressway. Reason I ask is I remember I read many yrs ago that 50% of the fuel used at speeds over 50 mph is to overcome drag.

[Ben@Adams]

The paint problem is this how thin the paint is on these cars? I got my car January 14th, 10 so I’m still learning. I already have a couple of stone chips. I wasn’t aware of issues with the paint until I joined this forum. But I’m still glad I bought the G8 and I love the car.

Thanks for the replies and a special thanks to Dylan@Adams for the in depth information.

While we’re on the subject of waxing I want to ask if a car with a fresh coat of wax wouldn’t get a little better mpg on the expressway. Reason I ask is I remember I read many yrs ago that 50% of the fuel used at speeds over 50 mph is to overcome drag.

Unless I'm mistaken the "paint issues" have more to do with the type of paint, not how its applied. Factory paint is getting thinner on all brands... its a result of the bean counters getting control of things. Less paint per car = less cost to manufacture = higher profit margin. The G8 is a little different b/c it uses an environmentally friendly paint that behaves a little more different... I'm not 100% up on the paint situation of these cars so anyone feel free to step in and correct me if thats not right.

As for fuel economy versus waxing... maybe... but if you're a fan of the show Mythbusters they covered this one and there wasnt a big difference in clean car versus dirty car, but they recreated the result by covering the car in golf ball like dents... something weird and scientific happened and it was more efficient.

[rez0nance]

...and Dylan steps in and knocks it out of the park! :thumbsup: Thanks for showing up and sharing the wisdom man!