Rear Spoiler Removal

[kennyk]

I pulled the rear spoiler in about 15 minutes. Remove the bolts inside the trunk. I used a dozen pencils as wedges as I worked the adhesive on the top surface lose starting from each end to the middle. The ends came lose quickly. Once the bolts clear the deck lid they can be pushed from the outside to center with a thin wooden block. To loosen the adhesive on the verticle surfacce I used a small plastic body puddy scrapper and just worked my way around.

The plastic clips are a bitch, and I broke 2 (of 5). I am sure you v-grove a thin scrapper and work it in under the clips as you lift the fin to help ease them out....thought of that later. If you can free up a couple clips notice how the slide into the spoiler...the ones that I didn't break were because I shifted the spoiler free of the clips and then pulled them from the truck using a small awl to work the ears (of the clips) up.

[mooredata]

Thanks for the info, I want to take mine off soon to add a different spoiler

[WhiteDeathLSX]

What is left behind on rear deck once the spoiler is removed? Or does the brace detach with the spoiler and remain on the bottom surface of the spoiler?

[christiancoach]

5 square holes.

[Rawyzf]

I don't think I have 12 pencils.

Any pics with the holes once it's off?

[WhiteDeathLSX]

The spoiler is attached with a brace of some sort. Does the brace detach with spoiler or does it remain adhered to the rear deck?

[kennyk]

There is no inner brace (I would agree it appears that way when you begin to work the tape free). The spoiler is essentially an inner and outter ABS skin that is heat welded together. As you seperate the spoiler from the deck the inner ABS section flexes between the heat welds making it appear like it will seperate. When I removed the spoiler I did fracture one of the heat welds....not a big deal. The OEM clips come 5 to a bag....I have a couple extra if anyone needs them.

I will take a snapshot of the deck lid holes (sans fin) and post later.

It takes ALOT of force (you better mean it) to free the clips. I found that 3 of the 5 holes had actually deflected the sheet metal up...I used the rounded handle of a screw driver and a hammer to re seat the metal flush.

[gearhead455]

Dealer broke 2 clips on mine when i first bought the car and needed some touch up work.

[BlackBeast]

I got stuck on some ice last weekend and was "helped" with a push. The guy pushed from the spoiler and broke it off - needless to say I was totally pissed off. However, I have now ordered a Maverick Man Carbon Spoiler as a replacement.

The base of the spoiler is a grey plastic strip and it is attached to the spoiler top with a series of pathetically weak tabs. Te base mounts to the trunk (as others have said) with two end bolts and the 5 yellow plastic push pins. The push pins are a real pain to get to from the inside of the trunk lid - there is not enough room to really get in there and squeeze or even get a small pair of pliers in there. To make it harder, you've got to work the adhesive free while trying to release the push pin because of the way they slide into the base of the spoiler. I'll try to take some pictures tomorrow.

I used a heat gun (aka my wife's hair dryer) to soften the adhesive and worked it free with a plastic putty knife. It gets easier as you get more of the base free because you can start to lever it off, plus I was not woried about breaking the spoiler. I would advise others not to lever with the spoiler too much.

I should get my new spoiler next week, so now I'm wondering whether I want to put any type of adhesive on there with the new spoiler. The dealership wants $28 for the adhesive tape and it's a special order - I'm gusessing I could make my own with some 3M. Also, the new spoiler only uses the two end holes for the bolts and two push pins in the truck lid although it does cover the unused holes. I need to figure out how I want to plug them to avoid moisture getting into the trunk.

[Rubbabubi]

@BlackBeast My spoiler came off in a similar way when I got stuck in some sand on the beach and people were helping me push the car and ripped the spoiler right off. I went with the Maverick Man Carbon Fiber spoiler also. When I attached the new spoiler I used some 3M double-sided tape that you can get at any auto parts store. They two types, a thicker white tape or a thinner black tape. I used the thinner black tape and ran a strip all the way down the front and bottom of the spoiler to get a good seal. As far as covering the extra holes, I just used some trim blackout tape that I had lying around from when I tried blacking out my chrome trim and it seemed to work good. Mine's been on there for about 8 months like this with no issues.

[BlackBeast]

Thanks for the advice! I'll probably take the same route with the 3M tape and I think I will use some small squares of duct tape to cover the unused holes. The car doesn't look too bad without the spoiler - it's a shame there are holes in the truck.

I've posted some pics here for future reference. I apologize they they are links - Picasa web doesn't like direct links and I was lazy to move them to photbucket.

Here is the base of the spoiler still mounted.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QFNc1BhIeD-BrGlSeHx5h6-elrwvMCaPBTWk0_64PX8?feat=directlink

Some close-ups of the end bolts and clips.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/XEX5g3Kcdisjd4vDRCpr_K-elrwvMCaPBTWk0_64PX8?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/TEMuHTEl1hfRXrSlpZxiwq-elrwvMCaPBTWk0_64PX8?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/yfgGFS_lF9MbO7Smwse8bq-elrwvMCaPBTWk0_64PX8?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/6cYJWM0aUI7PleLca1QJU6-elrwvMCaPBTWk0_64PX8?feat=directlink

Next, take out the inner trunk liner. There are black push pins that come out pretty easily. I used a flat screw driver to pop the first couple of teeth out and pulled the rest of the pin with my fingers.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/gdZEdtC6LqVbKoZcVBkB0a-elrwvMCaPBTWk0_64PX8?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/XuPJFh4N1P-HGWecqNlr0q-elrwvMCaPBTWk0_64PX8?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHgCRpjE8Kb63nFChnYKpq-elrwvMCaPBTWk0_64PX8?feat=directlink

Next I used a small plastic putty knife and ran it along the top and bottom sides of the spoiler base to separate the adhesive tape. It it pretty easy to separate, but the residue it leaves on the paint is a PITA to get off afterwards.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tmvUM-CT8nw9KnZ8vQlGka-elrwvMCaPBTWk0_64PX8?feat=directlink

The yellow push pins were easy for me to get out because the top of the spoiler was not on, but if your spoiler is not broken I can see how these would be extremelt difficult to get out without breaking. If you noticed from the previous pics, the yellow tabs slot into the base in different directions. If they are all the same direction you could slide it sideways and detach the yellow tabs from the spoiler, but that would be too logical for the old general. I was able to bend the plastic (it's quite flexible) and slide the base of the tabs without breaking them.

Also, the holes are actually oval shape. The slot on the base of the spoiler holds the tabs in a certain direction so without the spoiler attached to them turning them 90 degrees meant they came straight out without having to squeeze them from the underside - which is difficult to reach them.

The underside of the yellow push pins are inside the frame of the trunk.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/rha9ghjjtUg1FjtJ718CDK-elrwvMCaPBTWk0_64PX8?feat=directlink

Here is the base off with the yellow pins still attached

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QPip8gLMFugyiovYsZHGOK-elrwvMCaPBTWk0_64PX8?feat=directlink

This is how the spoiler is attached to its base - there are a series of these tabs along the length of the spoiler that hold it together. They look real weak and probably why it broke.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/2U_UNzS8l5R_Xe5l_qzLJa-elrwvMCaPBTWk0_64PX8?feat=directlink

Here is what it looks like without the spoiler on. I removed the adhesive residue with some goof off. I also left some very fine scratches in the clear coat so I finished the whole trunk with rubbing compound and a polish. Petty about the rest of the car :)

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wfeewvuVT_pKIWIkM0c5Vq-elrwvMCaPBTWk0_64PX8?feat=directlink

I'll try to do a similar write up for the Carbon spoiler install when I get it.

[Demos-Analem-Kratos]

I had the same thing happen! Luckily i emailed members of our forum and tracked down a PBM spoiler for 100 bucks. I then went to the local body shop and had them screw around with it for 50 bucks. Looks as good as new!

[Eidolon]

Thanks for the advice! I'll probably take the same route with the 3M tape and I think I will use some small squares of duct tape to cover the unused holes.

I wouldn't use duct tape for this particular application. The adhesive will degrade over time and the tape will fray. I'd use aluminum foil tape (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Scotch&174;-Foil-Tape---2-0%22-x-10-yd--%2850-8-mm-x-9-1-m%29-3M_7100043-P_N3372_T%7CGRP2006_____). It'll lay down flat, stick, and it's intended for moisture protection. This is what others recommended here, and it's what I used.

To stick the MM Carbon Fiber spoiler on, I'd use 3M Molding Tape (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Scotch-Mount&153;-Molding-Tape---7-8%22-x-5-ft-3M_7100051-P_N3372_T%7CGRP2006_____). Lay a solid strip along the leading edge of the spoiler, recessed slightly, and then do the same but more sparsely along the back side and edges. You'll also use two yellow clips and the two bolts from your old spoiler. So you'll press the tape down and lock the clips in one go. I can provide pics of my install if you need.

[MIEngineer]

You could also use vinyl. Anything that will not pull the paint up and seal off the holes should be fine as the holes will still be exposed to the interior panels.