UDP Install, HELP!

[Mighty Horse]

I just installed a powerbond UDP. Finally got the thing to 230 ft/lbs but the bolt head is not tight against the washer. I can spin the washer with my fingers. Got everything put back together and have a loud tapping sound that seems to be coming from the valve cover area. Sounds like valve train noise to me. I tried taking the bolt back out to see if the pulley is flush with the end of the crank but i can not get the damn thing back out. It's tighter that f*@#! When the engine is running the pulley and the bolt are wobbling. What should I do?

[GRRRR8]

How did you press the pulley on?

[Mighty Horse]

I used the ARP bolt without the washer to get it started then put the washer on the tightened it all the way down.

[GRRRR8]

So the washer isn't touching(loose) but the bolt is tight as hell correct.

I sure don't want to tell you this, but I had to fix one for the same reason. When the customer installed the pulley(just like you did), the threads in the crank were weak and starting galling causing the the threads to seize the bolt.

Ever since I saw this happen I heat all LS balancers and slide them on all the way and then tighten the bolt or use the correct installation tool.

[Mighty Horse]

So the washer isn't touching(loose) but the bolt is tight as hell correct.

That is correct.

So how do you fix this? After I got the pulley started I backed the bolt out, slid the washer on then started the bolt back by hand. It didn't feel cross threaded and it started very easy. Am I f#*@ed? Is it ok to drive? I'm freakin out right about now!

[Devilish34]

So the washer isn't touching(loose) but the bolt is tight as hell correct.

I sure don't want to tell you this, but I had to fix one for the same reason. When the customer installed the pulley(just like you did), the threads in the crank were weak and starting galling causing the the threads to seize the bolt.

Ever since I saw this happen I heat all LS balancers and slide them on all the way and then tighten the bolt or use the correct installation tool.

Bake the pulley .......Can he pull it and clean the threads with a tap??

[Mighty Horse]

That little voice in my head was telling me to throw the UDP in the oven while I was taking the old one off. Should have listened!

[GRRRR8]

That is correct.

So how do you fix this? After I got the pulley started I backed the bolt out, slid the washer on then started the bolt back by hand. It didn't feel cross threaded and it started very easy. Am I f#*@ed? Is it ok to drive? I'm freakin out right about now!

If its not on all the way you can damage the crank or throw the belt.

The bolt has to come out. It will not be easy. Then the pulley needs to come back off. You will need a thread tap for that size bolt to clean the threads. The outer threads will be ruined, but once the balancer is on all the way, there will be good threads for the bolt to tighten into. Do not press the balancer on with the bolt once the threads are clean/clear. Heat the balancer with a heat gun or small torch(off the car) on the inside where it slides on the crank. It will slide all the way by hand when its heated enough. Then spray it with cool water to cool it down and install bolt with blue Loc-Tite. Make sure you blow all the metal shavings out of the crank once the threads are repaired.

[Mighty Horse]

Ok, thanks for the help Charlie. Looks like this is gonna be a LONG night.

[wnt2gofst]

So the washer isn't touching(loose) but the bolt is tight as hell correct.

I sure don't want to tell you this, but I had to fix one for the same reason. When the customer installed the pulley(just like you did), the threads in the crank were weak and starting galling causing the the threads to seize the bolt.

Ever since I saw this happen I heat all LS balancers and slide them on all the way and then tighten the bolt or use the correct installation tool.

This happen to my cobra! luckly had tools to fix it myself. we retapped the crank. man it made for a long day.

[Mighty Horse]

One last question. I don't have a torch, can I put it in the oven or will it F'up the seal? Do you think one of those little butane torches would work?

[GRRRR8]

You could do the oven trick if there isn't a rubber inertia ring on the balancer. If it does, use the small torch.

Tip: If it doesnt slide on all the way instantly(obvious THUNK sound when it bottoms out), pull it off QUICK! Use gloves to hold the balancer once its heated.

[DRCUSTOMPARTS]

If you need to tap the bolt hole it's a 10mm x 1.5 pitch thread. Once you get the threads cleaned out, you should torque the new bolt to the specs below.

Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass to 150 N·m (110 lb ft).
Loosen the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass 360 degrees.
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a third pass to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a final pass to 230 degrees

[GRRRR8]

He is/was using a ARP bolt so it just has to be torqued.

[98aggie]

I use a M16 x 2.0 220mm long full thread bolt with a nut a washer to install UDP.


Screw the bolt into the crank. Then hold the bolt in place and unscrew the nut which pushes the UDP pulley on.

[GRRRR8]

I use a M16 x 2.0 220mm long full thread bolt with a nut a washer to install UDP.


Screw the bolt into the crank. Then hold the bolt in place and unscrew the nut which pushes the UDP pulley on.

Correct. Most balancer installers are like this to avoid damage to the crank.

[DRCUSTOMPARTS]

So it's a 16mm x 2.0 and not a 10mm? I wonder why the manual says 10mm.

[Mighty Horse]

Finally got the bolt out and here's what I've got. Of course I can't see in side the bolt hole and can't get my fat little fingers inside to feel the threads. What do you think, use a tap to try to clean up the threads?

[DRCUSTOMPARTS]

Measure the bolt and get a tap that's the same size and CAREFULLY clean out the threads. Use plenty of cutting oil and don't turn the tap too hard, it's hardened so you can break it in the hole, and if that happens you'll be screwed.

[r33pwrd]

Yes lots of oil and I would do 1/4 to 1/2 turn than back it all they way out and wipe the oil and grime off the tap than add more oil!

[-Ray-]

Finally got the bolt out and here's what I've got. Of course I can't see in side the bolt hole and can't get my fat little fingers inside to feel the threads. What do you think, use a tap to try to clean up the threads?

How long is that bolt? It appears you ran into a non tapped section of the crank. You still have the stock bolt?
I guess the other question I now have is when you said the washer was spinning, how much space did it have to play in?

BTW, do you have a pic? Compressed air? I wouldn't run a tap in there until you know there is no obstruction.
I'll be driving by Marion on my way to MI in the morning.

[GeorgeInNePa]

How long is that bolt? It appears you ran into a non tapped section of the crank. You still have the stock bolt?
I guess the other question I now have is when you said the washer was spinning, how much space did it have to play in?

BTW, do you have a pic? Compressed air? I wouldn't run a tap in there until you know there is no obstruction.
I'll be driving by Marion on my way to MI in the morning.

This.

Looks like the bolt is too long.

[GRRRR8]

This is what the bolt looked like I removed as well. Measure to be sure and get a new bolt.

[GeorgeInNePa]

This is what the bolt looked like I removed as well. Measure to be sure and get a new bolt.

If the bolt he bought is the correct part number, a WTF? call to ARP is in order.

[GRRRR8]

If the bolt he bought is the correct part number, a WTF? call to ARP is in order.

Pressing the pulley on with the bolt by only a few threads is what causes this.

[Mighty Horse]

Everything is back together and I just finished the test drive. WOW, what an ordeal! Thanks for all the help guys. Here's what I ended up doing:

Got the bolt out (ARP 234-2503). Grabbed the puller and got the UDP back off. Tried "making" a thread chaser out of a 6" socket head cap screw. That just didn't feel right as I started running it in. Borrowed a 12" long 16x2 metric starter tap and then it was on. As I ran the tap in I could feel a couple of F'd up threads. Got everything blown out real good then took the dremel to the tip of the ARP and cut off the bad section of threads (only like 3/16"). USED A SMALL MAP GAS TORCH to heat up the UDP (thanks for the tip Charlie) and it slid right on the crank with no problems at all. Ran the ARP bolt in by hand then hit it with the torque wrench and took it to 235 lb/ft. Got everything put back together and took it for a road test.

The moral of the story is DO NOT use a bolt to run the pulley on the crank! USE A TORCH to heat it up and it slides right on just like Charlie said. I want to thank everyone for their quick responses and all the tips that were offered up. Thanks guys!

[Mighty Horse]

I did notice when I was backing out of the garage that the power steering seemed a little weak. Is this normal? I only ask because of all the other issues I've had and I just want to make sure I'm not missing something else.

[DRCUSTOMPARTS]

Glad to see you got the threaded hole cleaned up and got the balancer on there. Good job!

[DRCUSTOMPARTS]

I did notice when I was backing out of the garage that the power steering seemed a little weak. Is this normal? I only ask because of all the other issues I've had and I just want to make sure I'm not missing something else.
It's probably normal because the power steering pump is being underdriven.

[Mighty Horse]

It's probably normal because the power steering pump is being underdriven.

OK, that's what I figured. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't the only one that noticed this.

[-Ray-]

Glad to see you got it back together. I see what Charlie is saying. Need to make sure next guy is told to use heat not pressure. :)

[SpeedRacerX]

After reading this, I want to commend the people on this forum who almost instantaneously jumped in and helped out. :thumbsup:

I've been in those situations and your face starts to get warm, a slight panic sets in, and you wonder a) if this will ever be fixed properly again, b) why did I try this myself and now what's my backup plan, and c) how much time and money will this glitch cost me. Not a fun spot to be in!

Again, this is only one example as to why this forum is so great. Ok, well, Grrrr8.

[GRRRR8]

Glad to be of help Mighty Horse. I am always the one that deals with the panic striken customers on stuff like this, so I know how you felt.

[dukeofpg]

Holy crap!! I would have been sweating bullets. Great recovery though and Charlie is a hero. I love the stuff that I learn here. I can't say that I would not have been in the same spot as MH. I can get so impetuous that I screw things up the first too. Glad all is well when you could have been buying a new crank.

[djerickd]

Aww crap... I did the same thing :( my pulley doesn't seem to wobble, the bolt maybe wobbles a little and the washer seemed like it was tight till after a test drive. Now it jiggles a little :(

Crap.

[AVIDMOTION]

My God if I read this 1st I would never had attempted mine with a friend. Glad he knew how to heat and bake and screw and well you get the picture....

[TailG8er]

My God if I read this 1st I would never had attempted mine with a friend. Glad he knew how to heat and bake and screw and well you get the picture....

So you guys cuddled and then made treats and then screwed? Did I read that right? Hhahahaaa.

JK!

[TailG8er]

So you guys cuddled and then made treats and then screwed?



Did I read that right? Hhahahaaa.

Or was it cuddling then get a buzz then screw? Lol

JK!