HOW TO: Setup Nitrous on a daily driver

[Robert@KBXPerformance]

Charlie saw that I had posted this on the other forum and asked that I post it over here too... Happy modding.

I wrote this quick guide a few years ago and have posted it on a few other boards to help those people curious about what nitrous does and how it should be setup for your normal everyday vehicles. It started as a Ford specific write-up so if there is any Ford manufacturer specific jargon that I forgot to eliminate please forgive me. I figured since I didn't see anything stickied in this forum that I would offer it up for you guys for some guidance. I am skipping the basic explanation of exactly how nitrous oxide works in an internal combustion engine as most that are in here looking this far probably already have the basic idea of what it does and how it does it.
There are quite a few misconceptions that get thrown around a lot when talking about nitrous. Stuff like "it will kill your engine" and "your tranny cannot take it" and so on. Well those overstatements are just plain wrong if you follow some of these steps I am about to outline and also just be safe and patient with things.



Step1) First you got to ask yourself, "Why do I want this power and what for"?

Sometimes people only want about 20-30 more hp and really don't even need to go with a nitrous setup. This is where some of you should be truthfully answering to yourselves, "Am I wanting to do nitrous for the power or am I wanting to do it because it would sound cool to say I have nitrous?” Another 20-30 hp is easily attainable with most basic aftermarket boltons like CAI, exhaust and tune and so on. With allot of vehicles just those three mods alone will usually net you between 20-30 additional horsepower alone.

Step2) Once that is decided you will need to see if your vehicle can take it. This will be based upon the condition, mileage and overall upkeep of the drive train of the vehicle over its life so far. For those of you who bought used just go back as far as you can go into the vehicles history. There is no set rule here. Your choice as to whether or not you choose to install nitrous oxide onto your vehicle is totally dependent upon your confidence in your vehicle's condition. If it is in good to great condition then your vehicle is probably a good candidate.

Step3) Now you need to establish what SIZE of shot you want to go with. This will be based upon your power aspirations and also upon your vehicles limitations, not only engine and transmission but also stock fuel system limitations as well. A good rule of thumb is to not spray more than half the stock horsepower of your cars engine. So for instance if you have a stock 2000 5.0 V8 Explorer that originally came with 215 hp then you would want to keep your shot around 100hp at the flywheel. This is assuming a stock engine, transmission and fuel system. If those are modified to take the power then you can run a much bigger shot.

Step4) Wet or Dry??? This debate has gone on since the dark ages of nitrous. Which one is safer and which one is easier to tune? Both have their places within the world of cars. All a dry nitrous kit is a bottle with nitrous oxide under high pressure, a hose (line), a nitrous solenoid (think of this as the nitro on/off switch) another short hose (line) and the nozzle with its jet. The way the shot is sized is based upon how much bottle pressure the kit manufacturer tells you to stay at. For the 100 wetshot I run in my 2005 Lincoln LS the jet size is .055 if I am not mistaken. That is just the size of the hole through which the nitrous has to get through. The smaller the hole at a given bottle pressure and the smaller the shot of nitrous. Most nitrous systems usually operate between 900-1100 psi of nitrous bottle pressure. No when you go to a wet kit all you do is take the aforementioned dry kit and add a hard-line or steel braided fuel hose going from the fuel injection line to another solenoid to control the fuel (on/off) and then to a slightly different kind of injection nozzle. Now instead of having one port to hook up the hose and one port that lets the nitrous spray out and into the intake. You have two (one for fuel and the other for nitrous). Now being that most fuel injection systems operate anywhere between 40-65 psi of fuel pressure you will have to pick the right fuel jet that matches the corresponding nitrous jet to give you the correct air/fuel ratio. If you have any question on this just contact your nitrous kits manufacturer.

Step5) How do I activate the nitrous shot? Some will tell you to use a wide open throttle switch and a RPM window switch along with a master arming switch to activate the nitrous. While this is a good way to do things and keep it safe, there are better.

What I am talking about are progressive nitrous controllers. All a progressive controller does is not only act like a WOT switch and RPM window switch but they also ramp the power from your nitrous up instead of letting it all hit at once. The nitrous hitting all at once is what can really kill a stock drive train. The way the controller does this is that is pulses the nitrous and/or fuel solenoids. Since the solenoids are either on or off with nothing in between they must be pulsed and left open a certain amount of time to get whatever percentage of your nitrous shot you want at that certain RPM. If you understand how your fuel injectors work in our EFI systems it is pretty much very similar in concept.

Progressive controllers used to cost an arm and a leg and were very hard to set up. Even some nowadays still are. While the one I am about to mention isn't exactly a walk in the park to install, any skilled mechanic/electrician/home DIY'er should be able to do it. I personally use the FJO Racing MINI-Progressive controller. It cost me $206 and has all the options I would ever need. The best part is that if you add the price of the WOT switch and the RPM window switches up they usually come right close to the Controllers price. The great thing is that the controller does all the stuff that a window switch and WOT switch does but much more too.

...continued below...

[Robert@KBXPerformance]

...continued...

Step6) Now that we talked about the more technical stuff lets go ahead and talk about more of the other necessities that you will want to include in a safe and reliable nitrous system. Timing is one thing that people question if they need to retard when spraying nitrous. While some say that you don’t have to pull timing until spraying 100 shot or bigger, I like to err on the side of caution with my daily driver car. I would keep things safe and retard spark timing 1 degree for the first 50 hp of nitrous and then 2 degree's of retard for every additional 50 hp. I would venture a guess that not many in here will be going past 100 shot which keeps things simple. 1 degree for 50, 2 degree's for 75, and 3 degree's for 100 shot. Pulling timing will keep a safety net in there so that the vehicle will be less likely to detonate if problems somehow do arise.

Step7) Do I need to go with colder plugs? Yes you do. I would suggest going with one heat range colder plug for 50 shot and 2 ranges colder for 100 shot of nitrous. If you are running a platinum type of plug I suggest you also go to a copper type of plug instead. The plats tend to burn too intense and can sometimes cause ill effect with nitrous.

Along with the plugs and heat range you should usually start gapping your plugs at .035" for nitrous up to 100 shot. If you go with a bigger shot then you will need to either close the gap a little more (to eliminate spark blowout) or install an aftermarket ignition to make the spark intense enough so as not to blow out.

Step8) Do I need a nitrous bottle pressure gauge? Yes you do. The reason for this is that in step 4 if your nitrous kit manufacturer tells you that their 75 shot jets work with 900 psi bottle pressure the if bottle pressure goes up then the shot size will too. Depending on how your nitrous is tuned, that may cause enough of a lean condition to cause damage. Say if bottle pressure went from 900 to 1200 psi due to a hot day in the sun. Well that would be about 33% more nitrous injected. So that 75 shot that you thought you were running now has turned into a 100 shot. Bad day if you’re only injecting enough fuel for 75 hp worth of nitrous.

Step9) Should I get a nitrous filter or fuel filter? Yes to both. The name of the game here is keeping your nitrous and fuel solenoids clean. If they gum up or otherwise cannot function correctly then you might run into a condition where your system tries to close the solenoids but they stay open and still spraying. That is another bad day. You can install your nitrous filter anywhere in the nitrous tract. I happened to put mine right after the bottle which is in the trunk. The fuel filter (wet nitrous system) I put as close to my fuel solenoid as possible to make sure no particles or gunk reached the fuel solenoid.

Step10) How do I make sure my stock fuel pump can keep up with the fuel needs of my wet nitrous shot if something somehow goes wrong? Install a Fuel Pressure Safety Sensor (FPSS). It only allows the nitrous to be active if it senses above 30-psi fuel pressure (or whatever pressure you set it at). Once the fuel pressure drops below that threshold it will break the circuit and not allow the system to be armed anymore which will stop the nitrous from being injected.

Step11) How do I add more fuel in my dry nitrous system setup? With dry nitrous instead of dealing with an extra fuel line and solenoid you will have to add more fuel via a tune intended for your nitrous. The new tune will need to be able to retard your spark timing and also add more fuel through the stock fuel system.

The problem some of the newer vehicle PCM's (Power PC processors in Ford's and E38's in GM's) people are running into is that the only way to program those PCM's is with an SCT Xcal2 or HP Tuners. Anyone that has programmed on of those vehicles knows it takes a little time to do so with the unit. That is a long time just to wait to retune your PCM then run it on the nitrous and then switch back to the regular tune right after running. Nitrous is usually used on a little more spur of the moment basis. What I did to counteract this was just retard my spark timing all the time even when not running nitrous and then used a wet nitrous kit to add in my fuel too. That way I would not have to retune all the time because the spark is always retarded and the fuel is taken care of by the wet nitrous system instead of the PCM and stock fuel pump and injectors.

I hope this helps some of you in your future nitrous endeavors. When setup, tuned, and used properly nitrous can be just as safe as any other part on a car.

If you have ANY questions about this write-up or are not sure about something that I may have not covered to your satisfaction shoot me a PM or email me and I will be happy to elaborate for you, please do not guess. While nitrous systems can get kind of complex, it is still very basic in concept.

For further information see my Nitrous How To: addendum posted below...

[Robert@KBXPerformance]

This is an addendum that I also included for my previous nitrous write-up with a little additional information. I started out as another nitrous write-up on another forum but there were a few pieces of good info here that the first one didn't have. I decided to merge them. Some of the info is redundant, but most is not. Enjoy!
How much does it cost?

Nitrous will be MUUUUUUUCH cheaper in the short run than a supercharger. But people do argue that in the long term the supercharger wins out over the nitrous because of the bottle refills. I own both a blown vehicle and a nitrous injected vehicle so I can speak from both perspectives here. Yes, my complex nitrous setup for parts alone cost me about $500 total (I got good deals) where as my supercharger ran me $5,000+. It will take A LOOOOT of refilled nitrous bottled to equal that out! In some peoples situation I am pretty sure they aren't about to throw $3,000+ at a supercharger or turbo so that option is out the window for some. Nitrous when setup properly can be very reliable and safe too.

Which TYPE of nitrous kit..wet or dry???

I highly recommend wet nitrous shots because they are inherently safer when setup and ran correctly. You will hear a lot of bad stories of "fuel puddling" in the
intake and blowing it off with a wet system, but that is simply not true. Very RARELY does that ever happen (happens with dry kits too) and if it does it is ONLY because the system was not setup, used, and/or tuned correctly.

Which brand of kit???

Some say only to go with this or that brand but there are many good brands out there. Some of the well proven ones are: NX, NOS, Nitrous Works, Edelbrock, Venom and Zex. Any of these are great brands to pick from so if you see one that is a REAL good price and is what you think you want then don't hesitate to pick it up.

Which type of kit???

Don't worry if you cannot find a kit made SPECIFICALLY for your vehicle. The reason why it is not a big deal is because nitrous oxide systems are VERRRRRY simple in design and construction. Any generic universal EFI V8 nitrous kit will work just fine for what most people will need in here. If you have a carbed engine then some of the items such as jetting recommendations and fuel pressures stated in here will be different from what you would run. Most will still apply.

How can I make it safe???

First...Install (or have it installed) correctly...This is a very simple job that most any skilled vehicle DIY'er can do in my professional opinion.

Second...Have it tuned by a professional in person (mail order tunes get real close, but not maximum safety) who knows what they are doing so they get the A/F and timing spot on for good power and, more importantly, safety.

Third...Make sure your running a safely sized shot. Rule of thumb is no more than 50% more than the vehicles stock horsepower (up to 125 shot maxx on 99% of vehicles).

Fourth...Make sure that in addition to the kit that you also get a wide open throttle activation switch along with an RPM window switch. Those when used in combination will only allow the nitrous system to activate once the master arming switch is on, the gas pedal is all the way to the floor, and the engine RPM's are where you want it to spray.

Fifth...If you really want a lot of safety for your vehicle then get a 40 psi Hobbs fuel pressure switch. What it will do is, also in conjunction with all the other aforementioned switches, only allow the nitrous to be active when fuel pressure is above 40 psi. This is good to have just in case a stocker fuel pump takes a dive and fuel pressure drops while spraying nitrous. More air and low fuel causes a lean condition and BOOM! This switch is not necessary but is advisable.

Overall if approached correctly nitrous can be a cheap and reliable way to make a lot more power in a relatively stock vehicle.
Enjoy and have fun!

[Art708]

That was very informative. Thanks for posting this for us.

[GRRRR8]

Yes it is. Thank You!!

[wreckwriter]

It's great info but I think the part about sizing shot to 50% of HP may not apply to us. I think a 180 shot might be a bit much on the stock motor, no? ZOOM ZOOM :)

[GRRRR8]

LOL. I guess it depends. A 200 shot has been done, but I wouldnt go over 150 with a wet kit.

[G8GT594]

I was thinking along the lines of a 100shot or less. Would that be to much?

[GRRRR8]

100 dry or wet should be fine as long as some timing gets pulled out.

[Robert@KBXPerformance]

It's great info but I think the part about sizing shot to 50% of HP may not apply to us. I think a 180 shot might be a bit much on the stock motor, no? ZOOM ZOOM :)



Sorry I have not been on here since the original post. Yes, the 50% guideline would apply to the G8 also. 180 shot on this engine isn't much really though it is at the point where you will need to ensure that your fueling is dialed in 100%, and that your fuel pump (assuming wet system) will support it. Considering the amount of power these cars stocker fuel systems (the pump mainly) have held on turbo systems I would say that the pump should be up to the job of supplying the proper fuel to support a 175 shot. Again, it comes to the tuning though. Thorough datalogging will tell the tale here. If you keep going lean on the top end no matter how much fuel you command (or jet for) then you are running out of pump and would need to upgrade.

[Robert@KBXPerformance]

I was thinking along the lines of a 100shot or less. Would that be to much?



Like Charlie said, a 100shot is a cakewalk with these cars.

Just make sure that you are activating the shot the proper way (aka not spraying too low in the rpms), have the AFR's dialed in, and pull a little timing you will be fine. Pull 3 degree's from where the nitrous activates on up to the rev limit and you will be fine. Making sure that the car is properly tuned before spraying nitrous is key too. It will provide a solid base to build off of when jetting and tuning when on the juice. That will make the overall nitrous tuning process much simpler and repeatable due to you not having to go on a wild goose chase to dial AFR's and spark advance in.

BTW, I forget if I mentioned it before but I have a little background in tuning. I am a Ford,Lincoln Mercury custom tuner and GM custom tuner; which portion of my performance business. I use both the SCT Advantage tuning software and the HP Tuners software depending on the platform I am tuning. I am sure some of you might have wondered why I am spouting these semi-technical tuning methods so I figured I would connect the dots so you know it isn't just some schmo guessing or otherwise misleading you good folks in here. :cheers:

[wreckwriter]

what I'm really looking for is specific kits or groups of parts that will work well on G8s. So far I find these items:

http://www.powerperformancenews.com/forum/zex-pontiac-g8-gt-nitrous-system-1654.html (claims to be a G8 specific kit but Zex site has nothing on it yet)

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/product_details.asp?group=33&model=135&dept=11&product_id=2796 (this kit was apparently installed on a G8, info from G8board)

What I would be most interested in is probably not going to be available in a kit. I'm thinking dual bottles with a fully programmable controller so I can keep the nitrous from coming in before 2nd gear. I just don't have the knowledge or experience to put such a thing together myself.

[wreckwriter]

another question I have: often you see cars with nitrous also able to make decent runs on the motor only. I'm thinking this won't be possible on our cars due to the need for the tune to pull timing. since we don't have the ability to switch between 2 tunes we are stuck slower if not on the bottle, right?

[GeorgeInNePa]

another question I have: often you see cars with nitrous also able to make decent runs on the motor only. I'm thinking this won't be possible on our cars due to the need for the tune to pull timing. since we don't have the ability to switch between 2 tunes we are stuck slower if not on the bottle, right?


We need to convine Vector to offer us a "switchable" tune. One for regular and one for NO2.

[Robert@KBXPerformance]

what I'm really looking for is specific kits or groups of parts that will work well on G8s. So far I find these items:

http://www.powerperformancenews.com/forum/zex-pontiac-g8-gt-nitrous-system-1654.html (claims to be a G8 specific kit but Zex site has nothing on it yet)

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/product_details.asp?group=33&model=135&dept=11&product_id=2796 (this kit was apparently installed on a G8, info from G8board)

What I would be most interested in is probably not going to be available in a kit. I'm thinking dual bottles with a fully programmable controller so I can keep the nitrous from coming in before 2nd gear. I just don't have the knowledge or experience to put such a thing together myself.



Whether you get a "car specific" nitrous kit or a "universal one" there are going to be damn near zero differences between the two. Maybe there will be a little plate to mount the nozzle into that bolts between the TB and manifold but that is usually about it. I really suggest that you don't get caught up in trying to find a nitrous kit made specifically for the G8. They will all work the same anyways.

As for a nitrous controller that you talked about? That FJO Racing controller mentioned in the writeup is your ticket. It is a badass little piece of equipment.

You can add a second bottle to an existing nitrous system VERY easily. Just buy the bottle, bottle brackets, the Y fitting and the extra -4AN lines and that is it. Nothing special or application specific. Make sure to have a bottle gauge on the second bottle as well. Just to ensure pressure is similar between the two. It should be due to them being mounted in the same location but it doesn't hurt to know for sure. Once you open them pressure will equalize so if you do want to cheap out and use just one bottle gauge then it will not pose much of a problem. The gauges only cost about $50 anyways. Pretty cheap.





When I first got into doing nitrous systems years ago I used to overthink it like most others who are new to it also do. What I later learned once I had become quite versed in it is that it is so very simple it is almost ridiculous. Once I discovered that I was making it harder than it really was I was finally able to move ahead much quicker with future nitrous projects because I didn't spend weeks on end trying to overthink things.

[GRRRR8]

^Agree 100%^ I understand the over thinking, but 100 shot is not going to cause the nightmare pics that people have in their heads.

[Robert@KBXPerformance]

another question I have: often you see cars with nitrous also able to make decent runs on the motor only. I'm thinking this won't be possible on our cars due to the need for the tune to pull timing. since we don't have the ability to switch between 2 tunes we are stuck slower if not on the bottle, right?

Well yes and no. I am currently running my nitrous tune in my G8GT right now. I took it to the track today and ran the equivalent of a 13.3 with CAI, Tune, and Catback and not much of a cool-down between runs. Had I bumped the timing back up a bit I would have ran faster but it will not be a total night and day difference in a N/A vehicle. Now bumping spark advance a degree or two higher when blown will usually add huge power, but not so critical when N/A.

If you go with a wet nitrous system then all you have to tune for is the Spark retard. The AFR's are taken care of by the jetting. If you want a super flat tabletop AFR graph then you can finetune the AFR's in the MAF table of the tune but it usually doesn't make a huge difference in performance. The jets, when properly sized for the amount of nitrous being injected, will be sufficient to dial your AFR's in when spraying. To ensure that your AFR's are going to stay correct it is key to know what your bottle pressure is so that you know the amount of nitrous will be in the proper proportion to the amount of extra fuel being injected through the fuel side of the wet nozzle. That brings me back to the nitrous bottle pressure gauge.

[wreckwriter]

We need to convine Vector to offer us a "switchable" tune. One for regular and one for NO2.

Is that even possible? Would both be contained in the same ECM? How would it be "switched"?

[Robert@KBXPerformance]

Is that even possible? Would both be contained in the same ECM? How would it be "switched"?



Sometimes custom operating systems are able to be flashed into a VCM and the tune can be switched on the fly with the use of an existing button; I have no idea about the GM specific ability to do this. For instance the Nissan VCM's can hold multiple tunefiles and hot swap between them with manipulation of cruise control button. I don't exactly know all the in's and outs but my friend/business associate is an UpRev dealer and has told me a little about the Nissan tuning. Something like that may be possible for the G8 VCM's but that would have to be something discussed with the engineers at Vector or HP Tuners who reverse engineer this stuff. They may be able to tell you right off the bat "yes" or "no" depending on what they have looked into.

[TheTugBoat]

couldn't you tune drive for N/A and sport for the bottle?

[wreckwriter]

couldn't you tune drive for N/A and sport for the bottle?

I don't think so because the TCM tune is separate from the ECM tune. You can have 2 TCM tunes because of the 2 modes but not 2 engine tunes.

[Robert@KBXPerformance]

I don't think so because the TCM tune is separate from the ECM tune. You can have 2 TCM tunes because of the 2 modes but not 2 engine tunes.



bingo.

[cobrakid]

....can you spray a dry shot pre-MAF and let the car compensate like we did on our Trans Am ?????

[Robert@KBXPerformance]

....can you spray a dry shot pre-MAF and let the car compensate like we did on our Trans Am ?????



You "can" but I always recommend not doing that even if the GM MAFS seems to deal with it better than the Ford MAFS. If you want to spray dry then it will be best to do it post-MAFS and tune for it with a dedicated separate nitrous tune. Or you can spray post-MAFS with wet, dial your spray AFR's in with the fuel jet and just keep the timing nitrous friendly all the time in your tune. That way you can spray at will. That is what I do with my vehicles that do not have the capability of a chip that will hotswap tunes on the fly. You give up a little hp when not spraying but it isn't no big deal.

[cobrakid]

.....but I had no problems what so ever spraying our 02 Firehawk pre-MAF....I had good plugs, and it picked the car up half sec with 75 shot.

I understand exactly what you're saying. But a dry Pre MAF would be cake, and from what I think safe ?????

[Robert@KBXPerformance]

.....but I had no problems what so ever spraying our 02 Firehawk pre-MAF....I had good plugs, and it picked the car up half sec with 75 shot.

I understand exactly what you're saying. But a dry Pre MAF would be cake, and from what I think safe ?????



Why ask the question if you are going to then try to give your own answer afterwards??? :confused:

If you want to spray your car pre-MAF then go ahead but I never recommend it.

[Mike P]

Kinda looking into some nitrous kits......

Only looking to do a 100 shot, no more than that. Most likely wet kit. Those that have used nitrous systems on the G8 with success, what have you used.

Saw some information on the ZEX kit for the G8 and some stuff on the Nano Nitrous System.

* I'd probably just use the bottle for the occasional street race, 1/4 mile PB, or a rematch / 2nd run if ever I got beat (on the street/track), and needed some more power..... :cheers:



...

[Robert@KBXPerformance]

Kinda looking into some nitrous kits......

Only looking to do a 100 shot, no more than that. Most likely wet kit. Those that have used nitrous systems on the G8 with success, what have you used.

Saw some information on the ZEX kit for the G8 and some stuff on the Nano Nitrous System.

* I'd probably just use the bottle for the occasional street race, 1/4 mile PB, or a rematch / 2nd run if ever I got beat (on the street/track), and needed some more power..... :cheers:



...



Weren't you just talking about wanting to do a turbo system in your car??? :uhm: What happened to that?

If you are serious about nitrous and want a badass setup then mine is still for sale. I haven't sold it yet because I am looking to sell as a complete assembly rather than just parts and pieces, which makes it harder to move. Look in my FS thread about it if you want.

[Mike P]

Weren't you just talking about wanting to do a turbo system in your car??? :uhm: What happened to that?

If you are serious about nitrous and want a badass setup then mine is still for sale. I haven't sold it yet because I am looking to sell as a complete assembly rather than just parts and pieces, which makes it harder to move. Look in my FS thread about it if you want.



Well, I definitely want some sort of power adder for a 'down the road mod'. The nitrous set up would be cheaper to do & probably could come up with money for that sooner than a single turbo kit would cost.

I will definitely look in the for sale thread.....




...

[waltah]

Robert, what is the ballpark on a safe (75-100 shot) wet kit for the G8 GT. i had a wet system on my 06 si civic that i thought was safe but after reading this write-up....i was riding the edge for sure! glad i sold it, lol

my other question here. wont i lose power when not using nitrous? since we can only run 1 tune?

[-Ray-]

Thread stuck.

[MANOFSTEEL69]

Wow....Great read! Thanks....Have debated this route for strictly track use myself as the wife is bitching about wanting a new car, and not wanting me to continually dump money into Tigger. I guess I will wait and decide after I see where I end up with the changes made over the winter. A good time in the 11's and I will probably be done with mods, and the strip anyways, save changing the rear dif. Still some great info that cleared up a lot of misconceptions and newb questions I had.

[Robert@KBXPerformance]

Robert, what is the ballpark on a safe (75-100 shot) wet kit for the G8 GT. i had a wet system on my 06 si civic that i thought was safe but after reading this write-up....i was riding the edge for sure! glad i sold it, lol

my other question here. wont i lose power when not using nitrous? since we can only run 1 tune?


150 shot will be fine on the G8 as long as you make sure it is getting enough fuel, tuned well for it, and used in a manner where it doesn't load up in the intake manifold before you get allot of airflow moving into the engine. You will lose power when not using nitrous but still using a nitrous tune but it will not be very much unless you like to run a nitrous tune that really retards the heck out of your spark timing. I retarded about 3 degrees from the tune from when I started spraying on up to redline. It didn't really kill much power and at least I knew I could go to kill mode with the flip of two switches in about 5 seconds. :cheers:

I am glad to see that this post has benefitted some of you guys.

[jaxredg8]

I have run 125, 150 and 175 wet shot and it works well. The only problem i had with the bigger (125 and 150) shots was on the dyno. Car wanted to jump off the dyno when it hit. My new HP tuner is setup for max motor (no timing pulled) and 2 different NOS settings (125 and 150). Works great to me. Just my .02

[MGM GT]

I have run 125, 150 and 175 wet shot and it works well. The only problem i had with the bigger (125 and 150) shots was on the dyno. Car wanted to jump off the dyno when it hit. My new HP tuner is setup for max motor (no timing pulled) and 2 different NOS settings (125 and 150). Works great to me. Just my .02

What tires are you getting traction with when running the bigger shots?

[ULTRA Z]

on my formula we spray a 100 shot its a cammed ls1 2002 model the way we did it is the high timing table is set to 29 degrees were it did its best for motor and the low table is on like 24 i didn't tune it this way but it works great been spraying that car over 3 years now and it is a beast on that 100 shot with a best of 10.8 @ 129 Mph this might could be done with the G8s to have the best of both worlds ....... we will see what the smarter guys say about it cause i'm no tuner lol

[Devilish34]

hmmm

[G8GT594]

hmmm

hmmmm Just do it and be done with it. It'll take a 125-150 with ease. There is one running around by me that has same mods as me minus the blower and it gets the fuck out.