Is it safe

[HoldenSS]

Is it safe to spray 150-200 shot of nitrous on 100% stock G8 GT

[Ktlplxm]

150 is fine. 200 maybe asking a bit much since its hard to control the timing

[Nick@HSW]

I agree. I would keep it to a 100 to 150 shot. Just make sure you take all of the necessary safety items along the way.

Nick

[Steve@Vectormotorsports]

I agree. I would keep it to a 100 to 150 shot. Just make sure you take all of the necessary safety items along the way.

Nick

Agreed. A good window switch is a must. Put a good bottle pressure monitor system on it and it will feel like a rocket all the time and will be plenty safe.

[MGM GT]

Bone stock... 150-200 is really pushing it, I would only go 75-100 bone stock. I would at least swap out the stock plugs for colder plugs (TR6). Bare minimum is premium 93 octane but I always ran a couple gallons of race fuel when going with a 100 shot and for sure if going higher. If going over 100 I would get a nitrous tune as well to get everything in check. Keep an eye on bottle and fuel pressure and check the plugs while spraying. I went through 3 sets of plugs my first trip to the track experimenting with the spray!

Just my .02 as I like to play it safe.

[Ktlplxm]

Bone stock... 150-200 is really pushing it, I would only go 75-100 bone stock. I would at least swap out the stock plugs for colder plugs (TR6). Bare minimum is premium 93 octane but I always ran a couple gallons of race fuel when going with a 100 shot and for sure if going higher. If going over 100 I would get a nitrous tune as well to get everything in check. Keep an eye on bottle and fuel pressure and check the plugs while spraying. I went through 3 sets of plugs my first trip to the track experimenting with the spray!

Just my .02 as I like to play it safe.

If he is 100% stock, a nitrous tune prob wont change much, he already has little to no timing lol

[Scalarrthu]

Agree with most. I would feel safe up to 150 (wet), just would go colder plugs and make sure you have a solid tune, and you'll be fine!

[GeorgeInNePa]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/GeorgeInNePa/656c361c.jpg

[MGM GT]

If he is 100% stock, a nitrous tune prob wont change much, he already has little to no timing lol

I think my stock timing was somewhere in the 15-18 range and the highest I saw on the tune was 22-24'ish. Might not be exact as it was a while ago.

Either way I like to play it safe now when it comes to power adders... unfortunately I've learned how fragile engines really are after popping a few engines practicing supposedly safe theories. I'd rather spend a few bucks on things like new plugs, race fuel, and dialing back the power a tad as they are pennies in comparison to an engine build.

You really only need a 75 shot and traction to run low 12's if you have basic bolt ons, probably a 100 if truly bone stock. Not sure what the OP's goals are with spraying so much while stock, your sure not gonna hook a 100+ shot being stock so you will need to work on that end of things as well. Unless of course you wait until 3rd to spray but then your not getting the full effect. I went 12.5's messing with a 35 and 50 shot in a couple gears making sure everything worked, then tried 75 & 100 shot and went 12.0, the 100 shot I just spun a little more so the 75 shot was optimal. If your gonna step up and get some slicks then you can throw whatever you want at it.

[gearhead455]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/GeorgeInNePa/656c361c.jpg



That's the first thing that popped in my mind when I read the thread title. lol

[mauricec00]

i have a 150 shot and my car is bone stock. i never tuned it all i did was run 109 race gas and it pulled plenty of timing out i did put 175 shot but all it did was blow through the converter. but as long as you have a good tuner and run on race gas there is no problem with a 200 shot the motor will hold up but tranny and converter will not.

[BigV8]

that's the first thing that popped in my mind when i read the thread title. Lollol +1

[mauricec00]

I think my stock timing was somewhere in the 15-18 range and the highest I saw on the tune was 22-24'ish. Might not be exact as it was a while ago.

Either way I like to play it safe now when it comes to power adders... unfortunately I've learned how fragile engines really are after popping a few engines practicing supposedly safe theories. I'd rather spend a few bucks on things like new plugs, race fuel, and dialing back the power a tad as they are pennies in comparison to an engine build.

You really only need a 75 shot and traction to run low 12's if you have basic bolt ons, probably a 100 if truly bone stock. Not sure what the OP's goals are with spraying so much while stock, your sure not gonna hook a 100+ shot being stock so you will need to work on that end of things as well. Unless of course you wait until 3rd to spray but then your not getting the full effect. I went 12.5's messing with a 35 and 50 shot in a couple gears making sure everything worked, then tried 75 & 100 shot and went 12.0, the 100 shot I just spun a little more so the 75 shot was optimal. If your gonna step up and get some slicks then you can throw whatever you want at it.

how did you go 12.0 on only a 75 to 100 shot? i do 150 shot and only go 12.8@109 and you said you run 87 octane or something like that fuel with a couple gallons of race gas? that dont make any sense. what are you doing right that im not?:woohoo:

[Ktlplxm]

Race gas is useless unless you need it. you make power power per unit with lower octane. Higher octane is only there to keep you from knocking. So if you can run 87 or 91 without knocking, then 93*94*98*100*104*109*110 will all cost you power and slow you down. They burn increasingly slower. The higher octane you run, the more timing needs to go with it. Its a YIN/YANG effect. If you bumpm up timing, you need octane, if dump in octane you need timing. Make any sense?

[99-LS1-SS]

Race gas is useless unless you need it. you make power power per unit with lower octane. Higher octane is only there to keep you from knocking. So if you can run 87 or 91 without knocking, then 93*94*98*100*104*109*110 will all cost you power and slow you down. They burn increasingly slower. The higher octane you run, the more timing needs to go with it. Its a YIN/YANG effect. If you bumpm up timing, you need octane, if dump in octane you need timing. Make any sense?

This is what I've always heard as well.

[MGM GT]

how did you go 12.0 on only a 75 to 100 shot? i do 150 shot and only go 12.8@109 and you said you run 87 octane or something like that fuel with a couple gallons of race gas? that dont make any sense. what are you doing right that im not?:woohoo:

Driver mod? Whats your 60'? Do you have boltons and a tune? I went 12.6@110 with just bolt-ons (intake, exhaust, tune) on stock tires. I use 93 octane never 87. I just messed around with the nitrous after that and it made me a little faster then being on motor but I still had a bad 3-4 shift.

Something is not right because a 150 shot should net you a higher trap for sure. 109 is only slighter better then stock you can do that with an intake and tune. What kit are you using and how do you have it setup?



Race gas is useless unless you need it. you make power power per unit with lower octane. Higher octane is only there to keep you from knocking. So if you can run 87 or 91 without knocking, then 93*94*98*100*104*109*110 will all cost you power and slow you down. They burn increasingly slower. The higher octane you run, the more timing needs to go with it. Its a YIN/YANG effect. If you bumpm up timing, you need octane, if dump in octane you need timing. Make any sense?

Except we have shitty 10% mix fuel with the 93 pump so I add some good gas to be safe. 104 is only like $5.99 a gallon on pump so why not get some its cheaper and better then all the fake octane boosters. None of the high end cars run right on this mix crap they are selling.

[Ktlplxm]

Driver mod? Whats your 60'? Do you have boltons and a tune? I went 12.6@110 with just bolt-ons (intake, exhaust, tune) on stock tires. I use 93 octane never 87. I just messed around with the nitrous after that and it made me a little faster then being on motor but I still had a bad 3-4 shift.

Something is not right because a 150 shot should net you a higher trap for sure. 109 is only slighter better then stock you can do that with an intake and tune. What kit are you using and how do you have it setup?




Except we have shitty 10% mix fuel with the 93 pump so I add some good gas to be safe. 104 is only like $5.99 a gallon on pump so why not get some its cheaper and better then all the fake octane boosters. None of the high end cars run right on this mix crap they are selling.

Even at a mix it is still 93 octane, therefor it has the same antiknock quality as a straight mixture with a 93 rating. High octane is only good if your computer is pulling timing due to pinging, or to keep it from doing so, otherwise it burns slower and makes less power per unit.

[Robert@KBXPerformance]

Even for you "stock" guys who want to run just nitrous with very little to no other mods I suggest you get a custom tune. Not so much for the retarded spark timing because that is already pretty low from the factory but, just as important, for your transmission tune. If you don't get the transmission tuned properly for that added power then you will be wasting it and also take a much higher risk of hurting your transmission too. Good luck.

[Johnnystock]

I'll add that with the tune(with wideband), you can monitor if your fuel jet mixture is rich enough for the N2O shot youre running. You never know if the jet youre running is fine with your car, it can vary a bit;no chance to take IMO. I wouldnt spray any car without knowing this.
And putting race gas is useless unless your car is tuned for it. I run a 150shot with 91 on top of my H/C/I/E Camaro and its fine with the tune I have. Its a safe tune N/A thats good enough so I dont have to pull timing on nitrous, even if I could with my timing tuner...

[Robert@KBXPerformance]

I'll add that with the tune(with wideband), you can monitor if your fuel jet mixture is rich enough for the N2O shot youre running.


You don't have to be tuned to monitor your WOT AFR's via a wideband and gauge or even through a datalogger. Datalogging and tuning are two different things even though people usually group them together. Regardless of that technicality I do agree that it is very important to monitor your WOT AFR's while jetting your wet nitrous system to ensure proper AFR's are attained. :cheers:

[Johnnystock]

You don't have to be tuned to monitor your WOT AFR's via a wideband and gauge or even through a datalogger. Datalogging and tuning are two different things even though people usually group them together. Regardless of that technicality I do agree that it is very important to monitor your WOT AFR's while jetting your wet nitrous system to ensure proper AFR's are attained. :cheers:

Yes and its what I like about wet kits; no need to be logged while with new injectors for dry you need a tuning device. Only wideband is way cheaper(dont want to start a dry vs wet, wet is good for me and cheaper so..). I was talking about tuning for pulling timing only or detect any knock if you dont have a timing tuner...