Ok about 6 grand then...LOL
Ok about 6 grand then...LOL
'09 SBM G8 GT - GT7 (Sport and Premium packages w/ Sunroof), Lovells Eliminator Super Low Combo, Pedders Street 1, BMR sways...
2008 Liquid Red, Premium (onyx/red), Sport. ARH 1 3/4 LT, Roto Fab CAI, VMS HSRK, Jeremy Formato Ported Intake and TB, Livernois Stage 1c Cam & DOD Delete, CNC Valve Job, Jeremy Formato Chasis Dyno Tune, BP Catch Can, lower panel mod.
Too much for a performance benefit. Those are "bling" brakes. You can get the same amount of performance with good pads, fluid and rotors.
I know - I'm going to get a lot of people disagreeing with me on this. But, it's true. Braking performance is dependant on just a few things. Swept area of the rotor, pad material, rotor material, force applied, heat dissipated. The last one is most important, as this is what braking really is - turning kinetic energy (forward motion) into heat. The more that is produced, the quicker your cars stops.
However, you have to have components that stand up to this heat. This is why good pads, high temp fluid and good rotors are essential. If you have pads that can withstand high heat levels, fluid that won't boil, and rotors that won't warp, then you're about 95% there.
Now we get to calipers. The most important thing for calipers is that they withstand the heat and apply the same pressure every time. Most often, calipers will spread and you will get uneven pad wear. If that is happening, then you need new calipers (and probably a new design).
I run the stock-design calipers (2-piston, floating caliper) on 14" 2-piece rotors on my racecar. I use good pads and fluid. And, my car outbrakes almost anything on the track, with no fade over 20 laps. When I finally get a chance to take the G8 out on track, I'll stick some pads and fluid in. That's it. And, I'm expecting that will be all I need.