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Thread: BMR cradle inserts

  1. #1
    Member Rubberman's Avatar
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    Default BMR cradle inserts

    Thinking about the BMR cradle insert #BK002. Does the cradle need to be completely dropped or can i just loosen the bolts and lower the cradle to get them in?

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    Senior Member Featherburner's Avatar
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    The cradle does not need to be dropped completely. It needs to be lowered a few inches and you can sneak the bushings in. I found it helpful to heat the head of the bolt slowly until the heat transfered to the threads because the thread locker is some tough stuff.
    John
    2009 Stryker Blue Metalic GT Bolt-on G8 GT Record holder: 11.932 @ 114.08 with a 1.627 60'
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    Member Rubberman's Avatar
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    i got the passenger side cradle bolts out when i had to lower the cradle to replace the evap solenoid. no problem loosening those bolts but who knows about the drivers side.

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    My cradle bolts weren't much of a problem a year or so ago. My electric impact was only successful at executing a couple turns, but my long-handle 1/2"ratchet was good enough to get the the rest of the way without killing my arms.

    Don't forget the fuel pump harness connector at the front passenger side mount. You could tear that connection apart if you don't disconnect it.
    Last edited by J Wikoff; 12-08-2017 at 11:55 AM.
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    VIP Member Leon McJones's Avatar
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    Heat the bolts to soften the thread lock - the way it’s designed to work - or risk breaking a bolt.
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    VIP Member BuildItYourSelf's Avatar
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    Heating a bolt also softens the bolt.
    I never reuse a bolt that has been heated. Especially a suspension bolt.
    Only way the bolt will break is because it's rusted to the point it's weak. No way thread locker will cause a bolt to break.
    2008 GT-M. PBM, #885

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    Um. Eh. Sorry. Drivers side rear bolt did not get that email. Stopped a ir 2135 dead cold. Would not reverse, breaker bar snapped it. Heat on the stub {C3H8} and lh drill and came right out.
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    Senior Member Featherburner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuildItYourSelf View Post
    Heating a bolt also softens the bolt.
    I never reuse a bolt that has been heated. Especially a suspension bolt.
    Only way the bolt will break is because it's rusted to the point it's weak. No way thread locker will cause a bolt to break.
    I'm not saying get the bolt cherry red. I slowly heated with a propane torch. The bolt was maybe 200-250 degrees. Apparently, you haven't read as many threads where these bolts are breaking due to the thread locker, as I have.
    John
    2009 Stryker Blue Metalic GT Bolt-on G8 GT Record holder: 11.932 @ 114.08 with a 1.627 60'
    1993 Pontiac Formula FIREHAWK 385ci., M6, Strange S60.
    1968 Firebird Formula Convertible *Restomod project*

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    Maybe so. Read all you want but is every post written by someone who investigated the thread "locker" was the reason and no other? You can break a bolt with an impact a breaker bar would have not broke. Mostly the case in corrosion free situations.
    But I would also imagine them bolts being tty because gm for whatever reason uses the "one time use" bolts in place you need to loosen to adjust. So I wouldn't be surprised if they are.

    Anyhow. 800*f will take total temper out of the bolt. 200* will start to take some out. You will not loose shear strength but bolt stretch and yeild will most certainly lower. Is it enough to loose sleep over. Not really. But is $40 in New bolts worth it if you have to heat. I feel it is.
    On a side note I never had an issue with a single bolt in my g8. The crank bolt was a pain but that Sucker had some major tq on it from the factory. A 18" breaker should handle anything you run into on these cars. It's not a ford where you see self tapping bolts holding beds and subframes on. Should be good.

    Do what you want this is america. But if I were to say heat the bolt without saying how much I would advise to never use the bolt again.
    2008 GT-M. PBM, #885

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