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Thread: Whiteline strut tower brace install?

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    Default Whiteline strut tower brace install?

    Anyone on here have any first hand experience installing a Whiteline strut tower brace? I was considering getting one for a good price from a guy on FB who bought it new then chickened out due to the install. You need to drill three holes in each strut tower then unbolt the big top nut on the struts, lift the car 6 inches or so, and let the struts drop down enough to be able to insert the bolts from underneath while threading a nut onto them from above to secure the end brackets. I'm not normally "afraid" of mid-level difficultly mods per se but dropping the struts and then reattaching them properly concerns me some; even Whiteline says you may well need an alignment following all that. Any advice?
    PS: I realize a brace on these cars would be mostly for appearances anyway.
    2009 SRM GT: Cortex tuned, Spectre Intake, VMAX ported TB, Solo HFC's, X-pipe, Solo axle-back, a few bling pieces under the hood, Billet Custom catch can, Holden radiator cover, "SV6" wing spoiler, GXP diffuser, rear window roof spoiler, "PONTIAC" 3rd brake light insert, Holden V8/6.0 Liter badges, Holden chrome trunk strip, VG shark fin, All-Fit Auto lower front lip, drilled & slotted rotors, painted calipers, Ultra-guage, custom-made "dead pedal".

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    Beyond Help Napalm's Avatar
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    the brace stiffens up the car significantly especially if you have a sunroof equipped car. I haven't installed mine as I keep meaning to when something else comes up.


    yes you have to drop the struts and yes you have to drill out. so as always measure - check twice - mark and hopefully drill once. When you do please take a moment to hit the new holes with bare metal primer and let that cure before you bolt up. at least that's my intention.

    will probably do mine next spring as I'll need new struts again then.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Napalm View Post
    will probably do mine next spring as I'll need new struts again then.
    Somewhat off topic but in response to the portion I quoted (and it is somewhat of a "duh" question I realize), but how do you know when your car needs new struts? My '09 has 72K on the odometer but seems to ride and handle fine.
    2009 SRM GT: Cortex tuned, Spectre Intake, VMAX ported TB, Solo HFC's, X-pipe, Solo axle-back, a few bling pieces under the hood, Billet Custom catch can, Holden radiator cover, "SV6" wing spoiler, GXP diffuser, rear window roof spoiler, "PONTIAC" 3rd brake light insert, Holden V8/6.0 Liter badges, Holden chrome trunk strip, VG shark fin, All-Fit Auto lower front lip, drilled & slotted rotors, painted calipers, Ultra-guage, custom-made "dead pedal".

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    Unless there is some visible mechanical failure, leaking, or blatant bounciness... it's subjective.
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    Administrator Chewy's Avatar
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    From what I've read. Unless you're REALLY pushing your car, it's unnecessary. The money is better spent elsewhere first.

    2009.5 MSM GXP 500ish N/A RWHP. Mods include but aren't limited to: Texas Speed 418 (6.8L) fully forged held together with ARP from top to bottom, PRC 255cc heads, Rick Crawford intake plenum, TB port, polish and tune, Roto-Fab 102mm CAI w/LS7 MAF, Kooks 1-7/8" headers wrapped with DEI, Corsa catless system, Circle D 3200 Stall, 3.45 final drive, BMR's complete street bushing kit and sway bars, Eibach Pro Kit, G-Force Axles, running on staggered VMR 710's with Bridgestone RE11 rubber. HSV triple gauge pack with Calais smokers kit mod, V6 tails, debadge/rebadge, V6 door handles, AU black door trim, Maverick Man under hood strut covers, & washer and bolt kit, fully corrected paint thanks to Adams Polishes and my hard work. Built with reliability in mind with some power for those times when you need to pass or go over a big hill. Just a poser, not a racer!

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    Quote Originally Posted by J Wikoff View Post
    Unless there is some visible mechanical failure, leaking, or blatant bounciness... it's subjective.
    Float, wallow, mushy handling are some of the things that come from bad struts and shocks. Yes, it's subjective of how much is acceptable to you. I changed my Fe2s to PPVs and installed Michelin Pilot Sport A/3s at 25k to tighten the handling. Just like tires, strut and shock performance do make a difference.

    But again, it's subjective and what you want out of the car. I thought the G8 deserved better struts and shocks than the Fe2s from factory. To put it in perspective, I drove a Camry that was less than a year old and was shocked at how it was so bouncy. At the time, my Grand Prix with 70k on it handled like a sports car in comparison.
    Last edited by WhatNext; 09-14-2017 at 01:13 AM.

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    Beyond Help Napalm's Avatar
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    bear in mind the suspension tuning is different for everyone.

    typically shocks and struts last around 70K miles but so many factors play on that. Do you have shit roads in your area (houston, Nola, detroit, memphis, etc) then yes you will wear them out faster. Do you do all highway driving - then look more at 5 years not miles - but either way.

    DO you race your car, do you hard brake - is it often full of people . . . . .. .

    My main issue and it's a feel thing - is when you feel the car shimmy over bumps. with the G8 and it's balance - when you feel significant front is shimmy those struts are probably on the way out or past it. even if they don't leak the valving in them is worn. such that in the bumps you have more spring response and less control - so the car rebounds hard and settles - as opposed to a smooth run.

    Thing is - that's a normal feel for something like a jeep. so if your perspective is there - it feels fine. I like my car to feel more critically damped - meaning less rebound settle and more stable motion. Leads to more predictable and stable turning - bumps or not.

    any car I was to buy used that was 7+ years old and on original struts - I'd be planning replacements regardless the miles. today my car has 153K on the clock and is on it's second set - I am looking for replacements now - assuming I'll need them somewhere near 180K.
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    Moderator, Retired -Ray-'s Avatar
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    The topic is about installing the brace. If you haven't had one installed or done it by yourself, there's really no reason to tell the poster not to do it.

    The bar should come with 3 bushings that fit in the 3 locations where you will drill. If it doesn't, then install will be pointless. The reason you lift the body up so the struts will fall is to get the bolts in from the bottom. My alignment was checked after my install, but no changes were needed.
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