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Thread: Where am I supposed to put the OE bump stops?

  1. #1
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    Default Where am I supposed to put the OE bump stops?

    Installing PPVs today. What am I supposed to do with the bump stop. Mine were all the way at the top inside the top hat due to the wasted rubber strut mount bushing. When I installed the fronts, I put the bump stop all the way down the rod sitting on top of the new shock assuming it would end up where it needed to be just in normal driving, but now I'm wondering what was actually correct. None of my install guides or resources said where it should sit. What did everyone else do? Worst case I'll just pull it up through the dust boot to where it should be located.

    Thanks.

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    VIP Member STL_G8GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Madmatt View Post
    Installing PPVs today. What am I supposed to do with the bump stop. Mine were all the way at the top inside the top hat due to the wasted rubber strut mount bushing. When I installed the fronts, I put the bump stop all the way down the rod sitting on top of the new shock assuming it would end up where it needed to be just in normal driving, but now I'm wondering what was actually correct. None of my install guides or resources said where it should sit. What did everyone else do? Worst case I'll just pull it up through the dust boot to where it should be located.

    Thanks.
    If I remember correctly I just put that sucker inside there and just assumed that it was only there to stop the strut from over compression and it, like you said, would end up where it was supposed to be.
    2009 PBM G8 GT
    Pat G 218/226, ARP Bits, DSteck/Shane Tuned, Magnacharger Chrome 2300 1:1, RCR Ported/Polished TB, Blower, & L92 Heads w/ LS3 intake valves, Comp Cams Trunion Upgrade Kit, ARH 1 7/8 catted/Magnaflow MidMuff/Solo Axlebacks, RotoFab, VaporWorx PWM 1:1 fuel system, ID850 injectors
    Mike Norris Motorsports Catchcan, AEM 30-4100, JHP Boost/Fuel Gauge Pod
    TSW Nurburgring Matte Gray 18" w/Nitto 555 & 555R, Satin Black SS Brembo Fronts, BMR Trailing Arms, Pedders Sway Bars, Whiteline Bushings
    Gloss Black Valve Covers, 6k HID, V6 Handles, Interior/License Plate LEDs, Debadged, Holden Black Trim, Polk Dxi, GXP diffusor, a few bits from Crazy Paul

    Originally Posted by TonyKarter
    Anyone who has ever worked on a car has been in your position, and sitting cross-legged on a concrete floor with a dim shop light is its own kind of hell... Chalk it up as one of the rites of passage.
    RIP Charlie - GRRRR8
    RIP Chris Wells - Panzer Leader

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    Beyond Help Napalm's Avatar
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    Yes it goes down by the strut casing as like a collar - thus hitting the inside of the strut top and mount if it even compresses that far. Ideally it wouldn't.

    and yes after 113K miles on my g8 and a few holes - with worn struts - and crumpled mounts - my bump stops were wedged in to the middle of the top mount on one side of my car too.
    If Guns Kill people, then Spoons Cause Diabetes

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    Thanks guys. I finished up the job yesterday and ended up doing the rears about mid strut rod and no odd noises or creaks so far.

    Also never do this job yourself (rears). At the very least pay someone to put the new shocks in the spring with a wall mounted compressor. What misery.

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    VIP Member STL_G8GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Madmatt View Post
    Thanks guys. I finished up the job yesterday and ended up doing the rears about mid strut rod and no odd noises or creaks so far.

    Also never do this job yourself (rears). At the very least pay someone to put the new shocks in the spring with a wall mounted compressor. What misery.
    I have to disagree... Super easy even with the cheapest of spring compressors. A little forethought will help you set up the compressors in a way that they will avoid the top bracket, but otherwise prett straightforward.

    Edit: either way glad you got it done!!!

    Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk
    2009 PBM G8 GT
    Pat G 218/226, ARP Bits, DSteck/Shane Tuned, Magnacharger Chrome 2300 1:1, RCR Ported/Polished TB, Blower, & L92 Heads w/ LS3 intake valves, Comp Cams Trunion Upgrade Kit, ARH 1 7/8 catted/Magnaflow MidMuff/Solo Axlebacks, RotoFab, VaporWorx PWM 1:1 fuel system, ID850 injectors
    Mike Norris Motorsports Catchcan, AEM 30-4100, JHP Boost/Fuel Gauge Pod
    TSW Nurburgring Matte Gray 18" w/Nitto 555 & 555R, Satin Black SS Brembo Fronts, BMR Trailing Arms, Pedders Sway Bars, Whiteline Bushings
    Gloss Black Valve Covers, 6k HID, V6 Handles, Interior/License Plate LEDs, Debadged, Holden Black Trim, Polk Dxi, GXP diffusor, a few bits from Crazy Paul

    Originally Posted by TonyKarter
    Anyone who has ever worked on a car has been in your position, and sitting cross-legged on a concrete floor with a dim shop light is its own kind of hell... Chalk it up as one of the rites of passage.
    RIP Charlie - GRRRR8
    RIP Chris Wells - Panzer Leader

  6. #6
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    It's inexcusable to not have some shock alignment points on the rear like you have with the fronts. The front were easy to line up the spring on because the isolator you transfer over helps you line up the spring. I had to learn the hard way to make a bunch of paint marks on springs and on the new shock (still hoping for the best before it went in for sure) on the second rear after getting the driver side together only to find the shock bottom not aligned correctly to put back in the lower control arm and be able to bolt up at the top. Lesson learned I guess. Didn't help that my highly rated spring compressor would only allow for ratchet use on one side and had to hand crank it with an adjustable wrench on the other side.

    Things that should be mandatory before doing this job.

    15mm ratcheting wrench
    18mm ratcheting wrench
    22mm ratcheting wrench
    Deep wall 22mm socket
    paint pen to make any and all springs, shocks, shock mounts, etc before you disassemble
    Pictures of EVERYTHING. Just take them, if you use them, great, if not, no problem
    A friend and a pry bar to help get the rear assembly out (could never have done that alone)
    The least invasive (read thinnest) yet safest spring compressor you can find.

    Just set aside many hours for it if you choose to DIY it. Have backup tools in case something breaks (my damn craftsman us made ratchet failed mid spring compression)

  7. #7
    VIP Member STL_G8GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Madmatt View Post
    It's inexcusable to not have some shock alignment points on the rear like you have with the fronts. The front were easy to line up the spring on because the isolator you transfer over helps you line up the spring. I had to learn the hard way to make a bunch of paint marks on springs and on the new shock (still hoping for the best before it went in for sure) on the second rear after getting the driver side together only to find the shock bottom not aligned correctly to put back in the lower control arm and be able to bolt up at the top. Lesson learned I guess. Didn't help that my highly rated spring compressor would only allow for ratchet use on one side and had to hand crank it with an adjustable wrench on the other side.

    Things that should be mandatory before doing this job.

    15mm ratcheting wrench
    18mm ratcheting wrench
    22mm ratcheting wrench
    Deep wall 22mm socket
    paint pen to make any and all springs, shocks, shock mounts, etc before you disassemble
    Pictures of EVERYTHING. Just take them, if you use them, great, if not, no problem
    A friend and a pry bar to help get the rear assembly out (could never have done that alone)
    The least invasive (read thinnest) yet safest spring compressor you can find.

    Just set aside many hours for it if you choose to DIY it. Have backup tools in case something breaks (my damn craftsman us made ratchet failed mid spring compression)
    I'm right there with ya on the alignment. I eyeballed as close as I could before install, then installed... if it was off, I took it back out and clamped the hat in a vice and then rotated the bottom with the springs lightly compressed. Trial and error... I think twice out of the first one, just one small adjustment on the second one.

    As for getting the rear out, because the car was on jackstands, I was able to just put the front tip of my shoe on the end of the control arm and then just apply pressure down to get the thing out. On a lift, or without leverage, would be very very tough.
    2009 PBM G8 GT
    Pat G 218/226, ARP Bits, DSteck/Shane Tuned, Magnacharger Chrome 2300 1:1, RCR Ported/Polished TB, Blower, & L92 Heads w/ LS3 intake valves, Comp Cams Trunion Upgrade Kit, ARH 1 7/8 catted/Magnaflow MidMuff/Solo Axlebacks, RotoFab, VaporWorx PWM 1:1 fuel system, ID850 injectors
    Mike Norris Motorsports Catchcan, AEM 30-4100, JHP Boost/Fuel Gauge Pod
    TSW Nurburgring Matte Gray 18" w/Nitto 555 & 555R, Satin Black SS Brembo Fronts, BMR Trailing Arms, Pedders Sway Bars, Whiteline Bushings
    Gloss Black Valve Covers, 6k HID, V6 Handles, Interior/License Plate LEDs, Debadged, Holden Black Trim, Polk Dxi, GXP diffusor, a few bits from Crazy Paul

    Originally Posted by TonyKarter
    Anyone who has ever worked on a car has been in your position, and sitting cross-legged on a concrete floor with a dim shop light is its own kind of hell... Chalk it up as one of the rites of passage.
    RIP Charlie - GRRRR8
    RIP Chris Wells - Panzer Leader

  8. #8
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    After the first mistake I put the whole assembly, compressor and all into the car to test fit before releasing the tension again. I painted a line down the spring and onto the new shock on the second side and nailed it first try. Thank goodness, I was running out of will power.

  9. #9
    Beyond Help Napalm's Avatar
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    Hell I swear I had a harder time aligning the front ones.

    but yes all day to replace all 4.
    If Guns Kill people, then Spoons Cause Diabetes

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