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Thread: ZL1 Fuel Pump - Gas Gauge Issue... HELP!

  1. #1
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    Default ZL1 Fuel Pump - Gas Gauge Issue... HELP!

    Hi all,

    I just installed a ZL1 fuel pump in my 2008 G8 as part of my LSA swap. The pump had the f body regulator done, and I matched the wires on the harness (grey to red, black to black, purple to purple and brown/yellow to grey)... I'm measuring 70 ohms on the fuel level sender wires, and I took out a couple gallons from the tank... secondary tank was untouched (did the install from the top).

    My issue is that when I key up the gas gauge goes to 3/4 tank, then drops down to empty and sets the "contact dealer" message. I measured voltage across the fuel level sender wires and saw only 0.15 V... I'm wondering if it's not sending a voltage signal to the sender reference line, and if so why??

    If anyone has experienced something similar, or has any suggestions, I'd really appreciate the help.

    PS - the pump itself is getting power and working, as the car starts and runs just fine.

    Please help!!

    Thanks,

    Alex

  2. #2
    Moderator, Retired -Ray-'s Avatar
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    I've had a similar issue develop in my ZL1 pump install. Somewhere very close to 5/8 tank full, the gauge would drop out. Sometimes hitting the gas with boost, it would come back on. Daniel, the tech that worked on my G8 printed out the test procedures for me.
    The ironic part of this is: since Daniel printed out the pages, the G8 has gone through 3 tanks of gas with no gauge dropping out.
    Rest in Peace Charlie!

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  3. #3
    VIP Member STL_G8GT's Avatar
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    After my pump install (V pump), if I drove long road trips (once or twice) and the fuel level was below half a tank, there was obviously a point where the float would catch and stop updating. If you drive for so long and the fuel level doesnt update (drop), the contact dealer message will flash.

    I dont know that it's related, especially since yours is only happening on startup, but is it possible the arm is caught on something and is giving an out of range reading.

    I have not looked to see what the acceptable ohm range is lately (but it's out there, fyi).
    2009 PBM G8 GT
    Pat G 218/226 & TSP Dual 660s, ARP Bits, DSteck Tuned, Magnacharger Chrome 2300 1:1, RCR Ported/Polished TB, Blower, & L92 Heads w/ LS3 intake valves, Smith Brothers Trunion Bushing Kit, ARH 1 7/8 Magnaflow MidMuff/Solo Axlebacks, RotoFab, VaporWorx PWM 1:1 fuel system, ID1050x injectors
    Mike Norris Motorsports Catchcan, AEM 30-4100, JHP Boost/Fuel Gauge Pod
    TSW Nurburgring Matte Gray 18" w/Nitto 555 & 555R, Satin Black SS Brembo Fronts, BMR Trailing Arms, Pedders Sway Bars, Whiteline Bushings
    Gloss Black Valve Covers, 6k HID, V6 Handles, Interior/License Plate LEDs, Debadged, Holden Black Trim, Polk Dxi, GXP diffusor, a few bits from Crazy Paul

    Originally Posted by TonyKarter
    Anyone who has ever worked on a car has been in your position, and sitting cross-legged on a concrete floor with a dim shop light is its own kind of hell... Chalk it up as one of the rites of passage.
    RIP Charlie - GRRRR8
    RIP Chris Wells - Panzer Leader

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