Crank pulley removal suggestions
Like most have or will do, I have started down the road of a DOD delete and bigger cam.
What's the best way to get the crank pulley off?
Does the starter bump method work and is it safe?
Should I buy an air compressor and impact wrench?
If I go this route any suggestions for a compressor and impact wrench? My main use would be getting the crank boot out.
Should I buy an electric impact wrench?
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I bought the puller and pulled it off with a socket and wrench. I used a friend and a pry bar against the flywheel to keep it from turning.
I have an electric impact that I bought probably 17 years ago from Harbor freight. It's BIG, but it works. I also have a 3/8" drive Dewalt cordless impact which isn't meant for this type of job.
2009.5 MSM GXP 500ish N/A RWHP. Mods include but aren't limited to: Texas Speed 418 (6.8L) fully forged held together with ARP from top to bottom, PRC 255cc heads, Rick Crawford intake plenum, TB port, polish and tune, Roto-Fab 102mm CAI w/LS7 MAF, Kooks 1-7/8" headers wrapped with DEI, Corsa catless system, Circle D 3200 Stall, 3.45 final drive, BMR's complete street bushing kit and sway bars, Eibach Pro Kit, G-Force Axles, running on staggered VMR 710's with Bridgestone RE11 rubber. HSV triple gauge pack with Calais smokers kit mod, V6 tails, debadge/rebadge, V6 door handles, AU black door trim, Maverick Man under hood strut covers, & washer and bolt kit, fully corrected paint thanks to Adams Polishes and my hard work. Built with reliability in mind with some power for those times when you need to pass or go over a big hill. Just a poser, not a racer!
You can get the tool that mounts where the starter is. It safer than jamming a big screw driver in there. I loosened the bolts with a 1/2" drive torque wrench. You can get the puller at any parts store that loans tools.
Rest in Peace Charlie!
Sold
Just a GT
Originally Posted by RichsGreyGT
Thanks guys!
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side question how do you lock up the crank if you have an automatic? That would have helped when we did mine.
However we used a rated 700 ft - lbs impact wrench and it came off after a few bumps forward and back. I'm not a fan of the starter idea either.
Of other devices I would have used - had I not been in a garage with an air compressor (and it was a 8hp job standing tank thing) I am thinking about buying the dewalt 20V 1/2 drive impact wrench. 891 I think it is - the new one. sells for at or near 250 - but I'd get it bare too as I have the batteries. It's capable of over 700 for removal - which I feel is needed.
If Guns Kill people, then Spoons Cause Diabetes
I made a wrench that attaches to the powerbond pulley with a long arm that will butt up against either frame rail to either tighten or loosen the crank bolt...
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2008 Magnetic Gray Metallic G8 GT Premium - DOD Delete, Livernois stage 1C cam, 25% UD pulley, Vararam.
(SOLD) 2008 White Hot G8 GT premium - DOD Delete, COMP 269LRR HR13 cam, 3.23 Camaro diff, 25% UD pulley, Circle D Pro II 258 2B stall, SOLO High flow cats
12.612 @ 109.31, 1.886 60' ft on street tires.
That's pretty cool.I made a wrench that attaches to the powerbond pulley with a long arm that will butt up against either frame rail to either tighten or loosen the crank bolt...
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2009 PBM G8 GT
Pat G 218/226 & TSP Dual 660s, ARP Bits, DSteck Tuned, Magnacharger Chrome 2300 1:1, RCR Ported/Polished TB, Blower, & L92 Heads w/ LS3 intake valves, Smith Brothers Trunion Bushing Kit, ARH 1 7/8 Magnaflow MidMuff/Solo Axlebacks, RotoFab, VaporWorx PWM 1:1 fuel system, ID1050x injectors
Mike Norris Motorsports Catchcan, AEM 30-4100, JHP Boost/Fuel Gauge Pod
TSW Nurburgring Matte Gray 18" w/Nitto 555 & 555R, Satin Black SS Brembo Fronts, BMR Trailing Arms, Pedders Sway Bars, Whiteline Bushings
Gloss Black Valve Covers, 6k HID, V6 Handles, Interior/License Plate LEDs, Debadged, Holden Black Trim, Polk Dxi, GXP diffusor, a few bits from Crazy Paul
RIP Charlie - GRRRR8Originally Posted by TonyKarter
Anyone who has ever worked on a car has been in your position, and sitting cross-legged on a concrete floor with a dim shop light is its own kind of hell... Chalk it up as one of the rites of passage.
RIP Chris Wells - Panzer Leader
If you're going to do it more than once, this tool is invaluable and takes all of the guess work and bs out of it. I think I got mine in ebay for not much, as well as the threaded rod installer tool.
Last edited by STL_G8GT; 07-23-2017 at 10:15 AM.
2009 PBM G8 GT
Pat G 218/226 & TSP Dual 660s, ARP Bits, DSteck Tuned, Magnacharger Chrome 2300 1:1, RCR Ported/Polished TB, Blower, & L92 Heads w/ LS3 intake valves, Smith Brothers Trunion Bushing Kit, ARH 1 7/8 Magnaflow MidMuff/Solo Axlebacks, RotoFab, VaporWorx PWM 1:1 fuel system, ID1050x injectors
Mike Norris Motorsports Catchcan, AEM 30-4100, JHP Boost/Fuel Gauge Pod
TSW Nurburgring Matte Gray 18" w/Nitto 555 & 555R, Satin Black SS Brembo Fronts, BMR Trailing Arms, Pedders Sway Bars, Whiteline Bushings
Gloss Black Valve Covers, 6k HID, V6 Handles, Interior/License Plate LEDs, Debadged, Holden Black Trim, Polk Dxi, GXP diffusor, a few bits from Crazy Paul
RIP Charlie - GRRRR8Originally Posted by TonyKarter
Anyone who has ever worked on a car has been in your position, and sitting cross-legged on a concrete floor with a dim shop light is its own kind of hell... Chalk it up as one of the rites of passage.
RIP Chris Wells - Panzer Leader
I don't know where you are in the build, but I had my heads off before removing the balancer. I used a piece of 2" angle iron with 2 holes drilled into to it that matched diagonally-opposed head bolt holes. I used two of the old head bolts to hold it over the cylinder and a piece of 2" x 4" between it and the piston. Just be sure that you have the assembly over the correct piston, stopping the piston from coming up as you crank the balancer bolt. Seems to me I used cylinders #3 and #5 for this.
I have a picture somewhere.....
2008 G8GT, Panther Black
Mods: Pat G Spec'd Cam, PAC 1518 Springs, Trick Flow 7.4 Hardened Pushrods, Pace DoD Delete Kit, Comp Trunion Upgrade, GRRRR8 Heater Hose Relocation Kit,
ARH 1 7/8" Long Tubes Cats & Exhaust, Spectre CAI, Pat G Dyno Tune
412hp/396tq at the wheels
Best 1/4 Stock: 13.6 @ 102
Best 1/4 Modded: 12.49
2008 G8 GT, Magnetic Gray, Two-tone Leather Interior, Sunroof, Bremmer Wheels,
Her Best To Date: 14.0278 @ 101.49 w/ a .0598 R/T!
New R/T Best of .0005 2/22/2012
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