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Thread: 78/75 turbo build

  1. #111
    VIP Member matts88yj's Avatar
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    Nice build! The buggy in the back of the one picture caught my eye. You on Pirate4x4 at all?
    - Matt

  2. #112
    Member gatorayde's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matts88yj View Post
    Nice build! The buggy in the back of the one picture caught my eye. You on Pirate4x4 at all?
    Thanks man. Yeah Im just a chit chat web wheeler, nothing hardcore I lost most of my build pics to the photobucket shit show, but it started as a 99 Grand Cherokee, turned into a firewall buggy on tons and 40s.

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...22-wjuggy.html






    On a side note, I was washing the G8 the other day and noticed a couple small rust bubbles forming under the paint on the drivers rear fender. They were rolled by a previous owner, and it was driven for a couple of seasons in the snow/salt back in the midwest (by the previous owner). They flaked/chipped the paint off when they rolled the fenders, and it looks like the rust finally crept under the paint on the outer fender..

    Fingers crossed it's only surface rust and can be stripped/painted/blended without having to do any metal surgery. Anybody dealt with this before, and what kind of price Im looking at to have a body shop fix this?

  3. #113
    VIP Member matts88yj's Avatar
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    Very nice! I'm the same handle on there as well. Should have a build thread going up once I make some more progress on mine (88 YJ, 60's, linked (hopefully), 5.3, built 4L60, Atlas and so on). Have most of the parts but need to start putting some time into them. Not having a place to work on it is making things a bit difficult at the moment.

    For your wheel well rolling issue, a good shop will more than likely want to strip down that entire area that has cancer to ensure that it doesn't come back. I'd say depending on the severity of the rust you'll more than likely have to have the rear doors and possibly the rear bumper blended if they have to spray the entire rear quarter on both sides. It is a lot of work but to make it right that's what more than likely will have to be done. I'm in a similar situation with some door damage from some knob that door dinged me so hard it cracked the paint on the passenger side front door. It's very close to the fender so that would have to be blended. Well on the fender is some clear bra and that will have to be removed. If that one piece gets removed, I'm going to have the entire clear bra replaced on the front end. While I'm at it, might as well put the GXP bumper on... Super snowball taking place to say the least.
    - Matt

  4. #114
    Member gatorayde's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matts88yj View Post
    Very nice! I'm the same handle on there as well. Should have a build thread going up once I make some more progress on mine (88 YJ, 60's, linked (hopefully), 5.3, built 4L60, Atlas and so on). Have most of the parts but need to start putting some time into them. Not having a place to work on it is making things a bit difficult at the moment.

    For your wheel well rolling issue, a good shop will more than likely want to strip down that entire area that has cancer to ensure that it doesn't come back. I'd say depending on the severity of the rust you'll more than likely have to have the rear doors and possibly the rear bumper blended if they have to spray the entire rear quarter on both sides. It is a lot of work but to make it right that's what more than likely will have to be done. I'm in a similar situation with some door damage from some knob that door dinged me so hard it cracked the paint on the passenger side front door. It's very close to the fender so that would have to be blended. Well on the fender is some clear bra and that will have to be removed. If that one piece gets removed, I'm going to have the entire clear bra replaced on the front end. While I'm at it, might as well put the GXP bumper on... Super snowball taking place to say the least.
    Right on man, sounds like the "usual" type of hardcore build. Any reason for building a 60e vs rocking an 80e or a th400? Ive got the opposite issue of too much shop space and not enough coin haha.

    That's what Im afraid of too. Thankfully it's only the drivers side, the passenger side is minty fresh with zero rust. But it's definitely got a fair share of surface rust on the rolled fender and on the edge, and fingers crossed it hasn't actually started eating through the "outer" fender layer. The bubble is at the very corner where the bumper meets the fender, so hopefully it's a simple job. And thankfully it's also in an inconspicuous area as well, even if it's not 100% perfect it would never bother me.

    In other news, I had a 3" framing nail go through the sidewall of one of my rear tires. Trying to decide if I want to throw more street tires on it, or break out the wallet and jump into some DR's and 17's.

  5. #115
    VIP Member matts88yj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gatorayde View Post
    Right on man, sounds like the "usual" type of hardcore build. Any reason for building a 60e vs rocking an 80e or a th400? Ive got the opposite issue of too much shop space and not enough coin haha.

    That's what Im afraid of too. Thankfully it's only the drivers side, the passenger side is minty fresh with zero rust. But it's definitely got a fair share of surface rust on the rolled fender and on the edge, and fingers crossed it hasn't actually started eating through the "outer" fender layer. The bubble is at the very corner where the bumper meets the fender, so hopefully it's a simple job. And thankfully it's also in an inconspicuous area as well, even if it's not 100% perfect it would never bother me.

    In other news, I had a 3" framing nail go through the sidewall of one of my rear tires. Trying to decide if I want to throw more street tires on it, or break out the wallet and jump into some DR's and 17's.
    I picked up the 5.3 and 4L60e together out of an 05 Tahoe with about 30,000 miles on it. I had it gone thru and built to the point that even if I put a cammed LS3 under the hood, it would laugh at it all day long. It's properly cooled and I haven't seen the trans temp get over 185 on it no matter how I was driving it. I like driving mine on the street just as much as over rocks so I went with the 4 speed for my intended use. Right now with only 35's and 4.56's in the pumpkins it sits right around 2000 rpm cruising down the highway. With the 37's and 60's I'm leaning towards going with 5.13's to help with all of the additional rotational mass. I have brakes lined up for it as well to help with making it stop properly.

    I'll quit spamming your thread with all of the rock crawling stuff that I'm sure 99% of the others on here are scratching their heads over haha! Looking forward to see what you do next. I vote tub it and run some healthy meats.
    - Matt

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