Really Good Stock Size Brake Pad and Rotor Combo

[Napalm]

maryland speed for the DBA rotors. I don't recommend slotted rotors to most people for DD use. I have them but I'm used to them, they will indeed make noise and lead to getting deposits on the rotors faster than smooth. But they come in handy occasionally.


OTHERWISE. I'd recommend wagner thermo-quiet pads which are a ceramic set for DD use - I loved them and honestly like them better than the hawks I have now. They bit better cold and they worked very well.

Rotors - DBA plain street series is fine for DD use and what I'd normaly look at. On that OMG gotta have more side - DBA 4K series slotted. I dont' like holey brakes on a car - no real reason to have them and don't pay for that shit.

Other cheaper rotors if they are on sale - Wagner rotors off rock auto work very well for DD use.


Pads. Other than wagner thermo quiet. Axxis Ultimate if they make a set, Hawk ceramics are OK, but if you are in the OMG gotta have that extra there is only one choice. Carbotech 1521's. Amazing street pads. Decent track pads.

YOu don't have to run slotted on the rear if you don't want to - that differential isn't great but there is a bit.


Lines help but they don't really help FADE. They help feel and initial bite down.

Just getting the old fluid out of the system will help you on fade and bite down too. YOU need to flush the system while you are doing this - or well you should. If you do lines. get you a set of flare nut wrenches it will help. I believe you need a 10mm or a 12mm. I forget which I used. Fluid - I use valvoline syn for DD use because I can get it easily. It works just fine. If I was tracking gertrude on saturday I'd have a quart/liter of ATE or Motul fluid on hand for the flush out.

[MIEngineer]

From my understanding the Duralast Gold was a ceramic.

Please DO NOT, NEVER, EVER use off the shelf ceramic pads if you intend to drive "enthusiastic" on the street.

That compound in general is not made for a performance style of driving, it is made for a Malibu.

I don't have any data to look at for Hawk ceramics, so I can't speak for them.

If you look at the CTSV/GXP vs. stock GT caliper, you will see it is not the distance that changes much between the 2 [they were pretty much exact] it is their overall fade and other performance that was improved with the "GXP" corner

The factory GXP rotor is a quality piece, and is extremely cheap for what it really is

I have the DBA 2pc on their from another member, and I am not a fan. Back to the factory rotor when I have time.

Slotted would be at most what I would do for a treatment. You can gain some recovery back in the rain / wet conditions to a small but effective degree. I would stay away from cross drilled on street cars.

[Napalm]

From my understanding the Duralast Gold was a ceramic.

Please DO NOT, NEVER, EVER use off the shelf ceramic pads if you intend to drive "enthusiastic" on the street.

That compound in general is not made for a performance style of driving, it is made for a Malibu.

I don't have any data to look at for Hawk ceramics, so I can't speak for them.

If you look at the CTSV/GXP vs. stock GT caliper, you will see it is not the distance that changes much between the 2 [they were pretty much exact] it is their overall fade and other performance that was improved with the "GXP" corner

The factory GXP rotor is a quality piece, and is extremely cheap for what it really is

I have the DBA 2pc on their from another member, and I am not a fan. Back to the factory rotor when I have time.

Slotted would be at most what I would do for a treatment. You can gain some recovery back in the rain / wet conditions to a small but effective degree. I would stay away from cross drilled on street cars.

what's wrong with the 2 piece. I had a set of those in my GTO and i loved them. I thought about it on the G8 but until I go to lighter wheels which might never happen - the usefullness isn't quite there. I mean the G8 is far better balanced to start with.