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Thread: Dba/Hawk brake issue

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seattle09GT View Post
    I have DBA, Russell and Hawk pads - use on street and track no issues. First couple of presses in the AM are just a touch firmer - the pads need to warm up. What you're describing is something totally different. Sorry you're having a specific issue but reply after reply that the setup is shit doesn't change the fact that dozens, if not hundreds of members who are here run the exact same setup with no issues. If you're looking for a chorus of validation - you're not going to get it.
    Sorry, I drive my 8 month old around every day with this car, so I got fired up when I almost had an accident because they barely stopped after being wet. The only reason I splurged on these brakes was because of him, thinking I would get superior stopping power and thus make my car safer. Otherwise, I would just tossed on Brake Motive brakes or something cheap like them.

    The car is stopping awesome now with the DBA 4000 rotors and run of the mill parts store pads, I am very happy now. Yeah I can't hammer on the brakes over and over and over like the Hawks with no fading, but I get consistent brake feel every time now in normal DD driving and can easily lock the tires up just by touching the pedal. Night and day difference, really.

    I am working with Hawk on the issue. I pulled the pads and they look completely normal with no glazing, so I'm not sure what they can do for me. I voiced my concern after the wet brake issue to Maryland Speed and received zero response back. I am highly disappointed with that since I have been a customer for years on all my LSX cars.

    As for your chorus of validation comment, I already found tons of threads all over the internet describing exactly my issues. I guess some are more tolerant than others about the warm up period required from these pads.

    Here are just 2 of many. I can't imagine how dangerous these pads would have been in the snow.

    http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthr...hawk+pads+suck
    http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/archive.../t-292476.html
    Last edited by gr8g8; 12-03-2015 at 07:58 PM.

  2. #22
    Administrator Chewy's Avatar
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    Like I've said, I drove my car in IA for 4 winters with your exact setup and NO issues at all. Snow tires and all! I have to assume it's a somewhat isolated issue or something. ???

    2009.5 MSM GXP 500ish N/A RWHP. Mods include but aren't limited to: Texas Speed 418 (6.8L) fully forged held together with ARP from top to bottom, PRC 255cc heads, Rick Crawford intake plenum, TB port, polish and tune, Roto-Fab 102mm CAI w/LS7 MAF, Kooks 1-7/8" headers wrapped with DEI, Corsa catless system, Circle D 3200 Stall, 3.45 final drive, BMR's complete street bushing kit and sway bars, Eibach Pro Kit, G-Force Axles, running on staggered VMR 710's with Bridgestone RE11 rubber. HSV triple gauge pack with Calais smokers kit mod, V6 tails, debadge/rebadge, V6 door handles, AU black door trim, Maverick Man under hood strut covers, & washer and bolt kit, fully corrected paint thanks to Adams Polishes and my hard work. Built with reliability in mind with some power for those times when you need to pass or go over a big hill. Just a poser, not a racer!

  3. #23
    VIP Member MongosG8's Avatar
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    I had a couple issues with my Hawks but realized it was installer error. I didnt put the shims in..oops.

    I ended up rebedding them and now no issues.
    2009 White Hot G8 GT w/ Onyx/Red Int. Sport/Premium, No Sunroof, Garage Queen

    Borla Cat Back, VCM OTR Intake, DBA 4000 Slotted rotors and Hawk Ceramic pads, GXP Diffuser painted White, GXP Fascia, Crystal Clear side markers, Black Scoops, 20% Tint all around. 20" Camaro SS polished staggered, Shark Fin, Infinity 6032si front and Polk db651s rear

    R.I.P. Charlie (Mr GRRRR8)
    R.I.P. Chris (Panzer Leader)


    "Mongo only pawn in game of life"

  4. #24
    Beyond Help AVIDMOTION's Avatar
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    I have the same set up, no problems after initial minor warm up, even in NJ winters, ...How ever the DBA 4000 with EBC redstuff is not the same deal, seemed to work ok, but lasted 8,000 miles then the next time 11,000 miles, went to the HPS pads and never looked back, all is well...
    SOLD 5/16 BOUGHT 2013 PP SHO...2009 GT 0-60 4.1,RWHP 381@4765,TQ 416.11@3828= 12.58@109.78 KOOKs 1 7/8 /race CATS, VARARAM & HSRK RESONATOR DELETE/3 INCH X PIPE to MAGNAFLOW SS F:Michilin pilot A/S3, R: Cooper Zeon RS3, VCM Ecm/TCM tune by Troy, Russell SS brake lines, hawk hps/ DBA 4000XS, NGK TR-5, YellaTerra 1.85Rockers PAC 1218, CC 7.450 Pro Magnum Rods, FULL BMR poly Rear/DIFF White BUSHINGS,BMR trailing arms/toe rods.FE3 shock/struts, Billet Catch Can, LOVELL's strut mounts/BMR bushing,UDP Ported&PolishTB,red Alto,CircleD 3000

  5. #25
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    cold my set up is hard as crap at the pedal and doesnt want to stop to the point I have basically stand on the pedal pulling out of the driveway. Then by the time I get out on the road they are fine. If I stand on them after they warm they stop in a hurry. That initial hard pedal is aggravating though.
    Mods: Things and Stuff 404rwhp 384tq

  6. #26
    VIP Member MongosG8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtirwin27 View Post
    cold my set up is hard as crap at the pedal and doesnt want to stop to the point I have basically stand on the pedal pulling out of the driveway. Then by the time I get out on the road they are fine. If I stand on them after they warm they stop in a hurry. That initial hard pedal is aggravating though.
    Yeah I experience the same thing when I pull out of the garage. It is frustrating but as soon as I leave my neighborhood the brakes are warmed up and they stop on a dime.
    Last edited by MongosG8; 12-16-2015 at 10:46 AM.
    2009 White Hot G8 GT w/ Onyx/Red Int. Sport/Premium, No Sunroof, Garage Queen

    Borla Cat Back, VCM OTR Intake, DBA 4000 Slotted rotors and Hawk Ceramic pads, GXP Diffuser painted White, GXP Fascia, Crystal Clear side markers, Black Scoops, 20% Tint all around. 20" Camaro SS polished staggered, Shark Fin, Infinity 6032si front and Polk db651s rear

    R.I.P. Charlie (Mr GRRRR8)
    R.I.P. Chris (Panzer Leader)


    "Mongo only pawn in game of life"

  7. #27
    Beyond Help AVIDMOTION's Avatar
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    I guess you are right about the hard pedal on first Drive. I had a buddy drive it cold and he said he felt better 1st apply brakes on cement trucks. My wife says it too hard for her to drive, though she can after it warmed up and driven a minute. After they said this I checked it myself and I don't really notice it cuz I such a big brute, but it is definitely hard to brake 1st stop when cold. Really no problem for me but is noticeable.....
    SOLD 5/16 BOUGHT 2013 PP SHO...2009 GT 0-60 4.1,RWHP 381@4765,TQ 416.11@3828= 12.58@109.78 KOOKs 1 7/8 /race CATS, VARARAM & HSRK RESONATOR DELETE/3 INCH X PIPE to MAGNAFLOW SS F:Michilin pilot A/S3, R: Cooper Zeon RS3, VCM Ecm/TCM tune by Troy, Russell SS brake lines, hawk hps/ DBA 4000XS, NGK TR-5, YellaTerra 1.85Rockers PAC 1218, CC 7.450 Pro Magnum Rods, FULL BMR poly Rear/DIFF White BUSHINGS,BMR trailing arms/toe rods.FE3 shock/struts, Billet Catch Can, LOVELL's strut mounts/BMR bushing,UDP Ported&PolishTB,red Alto,CircleD 3000

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by AVIDMOTION View Post
    I guess you are right about the hard pedal on first Drive. I had a buddy drive it cold and he said he felt better 1st apply brakes on cement trucks. My wife says it too hard for her to drive, though she can after it warmed up and driven a minute. After they said this I checked it myself and I don't really notice it cuz I such a big brute, but it is definitely hard to brake 1st stop when cold. Really no problem for me but is noticeable.....
    Just goes to show adequate brake feel is totally subjective

    But for me, I need them to work better during those first few minutes. I never took them out on a long trip, but wouldn't they cool back down if you were cruising with no brakes for a while? Would be scary if that happened and you had to stop in an emergency situation.

    Anyway, I am happy about the DBA rotors at least. Although I guess it's hard to grade rotors, but I have had zero issues with them.

  9. #29
    Administrator Chewy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr8g8 View Post
    Just goes to show adequate brake feel is totally subjective

    But for me, I need them to work better during those first few minutes. I never took them out on a long trip, but wouldn't they cool back down if you were cruising with no brakes for a while? Would be scary if that happened and you had to stop in an emergency situation.

    Anyway, I am happy about the DBA rotors at least. Although I guess it's hard to grade rotors, but I have had zero issues with them.
    Cruising at speed your rotors are hauling ass and the pads warm nearly instantly. HPS bite HARD when warm.

    2009.5 MSM GXP 500ish N/A RWHP. Mods include but aren't limited to: Texas Speed 418 (6.8L) fully forged held together with ARP from top to bottom, PRC 255cc heads, Rick Crawford intake plenum, TB port, polish and tune, Roto-Fab 102mm CAI w/LS7 MAF, Kooks 1-7/8" headers wrapped with DEI, Corsa catless system, Circle D 3200 Stall, 3.45 final drive, BMR's complete street bushing kit and sway bars, Eibach Pro Kit, G-Force Axles, running on staggered VMR 710's with Bridgestone RE11 rubber. HSV triple gauge pack with Calais smokers kit mod, V6 tails, debadge/rebadge, V6 door handles, AU black door trim, Maverick Man under hood strut covers, & washer and bolt kit, fully corrected paint thanks to Adams Polishes and my hard work. Built with reliability in mind with some power for those times when you need to pass or go over a big hill. Just a poser, not a racer!

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