Hoping for my all time goal of 10s NA

[JonnyG2132]

We couldnt figure out why I was losing timing either. I pulled the fuses and all the timing came back though. Is it because Im running front and rears that are smaller than stock diameter? I have about 390 ft/lbs of Tq on an unlocked converter lol so I dont think im exceeding any tq limits.. Yes, I agree the converter is way too tight. I couldnt believe it when he told me that. Im going to probably do tires first bc I dont want to be without the car. Ill do the converter over the winter. Going to 28 inch tire from a 26 inch tire will loosen the converter right? If so, about how much?

[JonnyG2132]

Here is my latest dyno graph with the 3.73 gears on an unlocked converter. I sent this to Cirlce D as well, to see which converter they suggest for me

Scan0002.jpg

[desertg8]

On 25 inch hoosiers at 2800 feet da with car and driver over 4100 pounds I cut a 1.49 60 foot. Consistently 1.50 60 foot times. That is with a yank 3600 stall and the smaller cam which I still have in the car. We could not get the crank bolt off to install the larger cam. The mechanic who put it together torqued it way too tight. My top end though with the smaller cam kind of died out. 118 at 2800 feet. But I may of been shifting too high with the smaller cam. On the dyno average horsepower to the rear wheels commanded a 6600 rpm shift and I was shifting near 7K. There is another series of thought which states to do it with rear wheel torque utilizing the transmission gearing. That is what I was doing with the 7K shifts. But I have a feeling average rear wheel horsepower is what counts and to not use the rear wheel torque calculation.

Also with E10 and a gallon of 100 we commanded an afr in the mid 12s with 25 degrees of timing. I have read that 28 degrees btdc is the sweet spot for dyno testing on a stroker ls3. I tried it. It did not have any kr because of the 100 octane I put in her. But she did not go any faster. So I think 24 to 25 btdc with a cam that has a bit of overlap is the sweet spot on the road.

[JonnyG2132]

Good Info. Thanks for sharing!

[JonnyG2132]

On 25 inch hoosiers at 2800 feet da with car and driver over 4100 pounds I cut a 1.49 60 foot. Consistently 1.50 60 foot times. That is with a yank 3600 stall and the smaller cam which I still have in the car. We could not get the crank bolt off to install the larger cam. The mechanic who put it together torqued it way too tight. My top end though with the smaller cam kind of died out. 118 at 2800 feet. But I may of been shifting too high with the smaller cam. On the dyno average horsepower to the rear wheels commanded a 6600 rpm shift and I was shifting near 7K. There is another series of thought which states to do it with rear wheel torque utilizing the transmission gearing. That is what I was doing with the 7K shifts. But I have a feeling average rear wheel horsepower is what counts and to not use the rear wheel torque calculation.

Also with E10 and a gallon of 100 we commanded an afr in the mid 12s with 25 degrees of timing. I have read that 28 degrees btdc is the sweet spot for dyno testing on a stroker ls3. I tried it. It did not have any kr because of the 100 octane I put in her. But she did not go any faster. So I think 24 to 25 btdc with a cam that has a bit of overlap is the sweet spot on the road.

What rpms were you launching at with your 3600 to get your 1.49?

[desertg8]

just off of idle. Maybe 1100-1200 rpm. The converter flashes better that way.

[JonnyG2132]

just off of idle. Maybe 1100-1200 rpm. The converter flashes better that way.

Ok good to know. Im trying to figure out the best way to launch with my 4000 stall. I wasnt sure if lower or Higher RPMS would work best..