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Thread: LS3 Swap into a 2008 G8 GT

  1. #51
    Senior Member SpaceFrank's Avatar
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    Thanks for the offer, Ray, but the torx-head bolts are not the ones I need. What I need is the coupling to shaft fastener kit, item #92148359. Looks like it's still starting at $42 + shipping on the online retailers. Thanks for the posting that info, Paul.

    It's too bad you can't just order the nuts. If the bolts are 8.8 and the nuts are some non-hardened "silver" metal like the picture states, I'd be willing to bet that it's only the nuts that yield. Looking at the old nuts, it also looks like they're crimped or otherwise deformed on the rounded side in order to be self-locking, which they kinda still are. The threads on that side of the nut are also brighter in some spots, where the bolt threads have wiped the surface.

  2. #52
    Vendors Greg@PacePerformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpaceFrank View Post
    Thanks for the offer, Ray, but the torx-head bolts are not the ones I need. What I need is the coupling to shaft fastener kit, item #92148359. Looks like it's still starting at $42 + shipping on the online retailers. Thanks for the posting that info, Paul.

    It's too bad you can't just order the nuts. If the bolts are 8.8 and the nuts are some non-hardened "silver" metal like the picture states, I'd be willing to bet that it's only the nuts that yield. Looking at the old nuts, it also looks like they're crimped or otherwise deformed on the rounded side in order to be self-locking, which they kinda still are. The threads on that side of the nut are also brighter in some spots, where the bolt threads have wiped the surface.
    Your answer right there is most likely the reason GM wants them replaced. Not because they stretch when torqued. They want to make sure the nuts don't fall off.
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  3. #53
    Formerly HSV-GTS-300 Crazy Paul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg@PacePerformance View Post
    Your answer right there is most likely the reason GM wants them replaced. Not because they stretch when torqued. They want to make sure the nuts don't fall off.
    Negative ghostrider.
    The nuts are torque to yield. Proof is in the torque setting. The 55 degrees is the stretch. The mating bolts are marked with Grade 8.8 so it's not them in the partnership being deformed by design.
    Making sure the nuts don't fall off is effected by making the nut threads deform when torqued correctly.
    Last edited by Crazy Paul; 10-10-2014 at 12:12 PM.
    Crazy Paul
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  4. #54
    Moderator, Retired -Ray-'s Avatar
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    I did have item 2 and 15.
    I worked on an application that the nuts are crush so they don't back off.
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  5. #55
    Senior Member SpaceFrank's Avatar
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    Finally got the new engine installed this last weekend. Still waiting on the headers and still have a million parts to install, but the hardest part is done.

    I had to break out the sawzall and modify the pallet to get the hoist in position.
    photo 8.JPG

    Yeah, that... that sure looks like the inside of a transmission, I guess. In hindsight, I probably should have waited to install the new filter and Camaro pan after everything was back in the car. Transmission fluid everywhere.
    photo 6.JPG

    Improved Racing pan baffle installed, as well as Crazy Paul's AFM relief valve delete.
    photo 5.JPG

    My friend Bob was in charge of remembering how to hook up the harness. Greg was correct; we did have to swap over the oil pressure sensor from the L76 (located at the back of the valley), because the connector is different on the crate motor.
    photo 4.JPG

    This part was a pain in the ass, of course.
    photo 3.JPG

    The leveling jack we used helped a lot, but it stopped us from being able to move the assembly back far enough. We had to support the back of the trans with a floor jack while we moved the mounting points up one at a time. I suppose this might have been easier with one of those purpose-built lift plates, but then we wouldn't have had the leveling ability. It was tough enough getting the motor mounts over the steering rack without hitting the back of the engine.
    photo 2.JPG

    And there it is.
    photo 1.JPG

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  7. #56
    Moderator travis gore's Avatar
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    Good job! We had to use a jack on the trans as well.
    2009 Karma Metallic G8 GT The best gift you can give to someone is your time,because you're giving them something that you can never get back

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  9. #57
    Senior Member SpaceFrank's Avatar
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    I'm trying to figure out which serpentine belt to install on this motor. I'm using the belt tensioner from my L76. The stock belt for a G8 (GT, GXP and 2011-13 Caprice all use the same belt) is too short at 76.8". The 2014 Caprice and SS belt is even shorter at 73". 2010-2012 Camaro belt is 85.5", which sounds way too long, while 2013-2014 Camaros use one that's 81". That last one sounds like the best bet; by my crude measurements, it looked like the stock belt was about 4-5" too short. I should get one in at a local parts house today and will report back on whether it fits.

    For the upgraded two-roller AC bracket, the AC belt from a 2011-2013 Caprice was correct, as expected.

  10. #58
    Formerly HSV-GTS-300 Crazy Paul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpaceFrank View Post
    I'm trying to figure out which serpentine belt to install on this motor.
    2014 main belt will always be too short because they have no belt driven power steering pump.

    It sounds to me as if you've got a mis-match of parts from 2 different car platforms and have a mongrel in front of you.
    Get a 3 foot long straight edge and start looking at the engine assembly side on.
    You need to make sure the main belt line is in one single vertical plane.
    Put the straight edge across the face of the crank balancer and measure back to the start of the belt groove = X
    Now swivel one end of the straight edge upwards until it's now sitting with one end across the crank balancer and one end across the top main tensioner. The distance from the straight edge vertical plane back to the start of the belt groove should also be = X
    Now repeat with the Power Steering pulley. The distance should also be X.
    With the waterpump there is no belt groove but you'll be able to mark out X with a crayon and make sure the main belt position is central on the nose of the pump pulley.

    You should be using all Pontiac G8 V8 belt driven accessories including a G8V8 (or Corvette) crank balancer. Once this is done the pulleys will all be in the same vertical plane and the main belt will be the stock G8 V8 belt length.
    Crazy Paul
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  11. #59
    Senior Member SpaceFrank's Avatar
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    Okay, the G8 belt I originally bought actually fits fine. I think we were routing it wrong on Sunday. Found the diagram on another of your posts, Crazy Paul. I'm going to blame that on a long workday, but now I feel like an ass.

    Also, the 2013 Camaro main belt I picked up at Autozone was 85.5", not 81" as I thought it would be. That's what I get for checking sizes on the internet.

    Nothing to see here, move along...

  12. #60
    Senior Member SpaceFrank's Avatar
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    It looks like I was wrong about the radiator hoses. G8 GT and GXP hoses are the same, I assume because they used the same water pump. The water pump on the crate motor is a newer style, with the upper outlet on the driver's side of the pulley rather than the passenger's side. The lower outlet is also at a slightly different angle.

    I don't suppose there is any vehicle that used hoses that would work in this application? I would prefer not to swap water pumps at this point. I figured the Caprice/SS would be my best bet, but judging by the pictures on RockAuto, it looks like they use two elbows with a rigid pipe between them. Which would work fine if I can find a pipe of the right size. Does anyone have a GM number for this? The lower hose looks similar to the G8 hose, which makes sense as it should only have a slightly different angle on one end.

    If that doesn't work, it looks like I can swap just the lower outlet and get away with using a stock G8 lower hose. Then I'd just have to find an upper hose that's the same basic shape but about 5" shorter in the long direction. May end up having to use a universal hose for the upper.

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