Some questions about the G8

[EngineDweller]

Ok so its a 2009, 9L1 vin, with 65k on it. I've only had it 3 weeks. So far I have replaced the tires, passenger side sway bar link (end link?), added hallf a qt of oil, gotten an alignment, and replaced the brake pads (no high performance upgrades...yet)
It needs at least one rim, but i want to do all four (flutter/vibration at highspeed, bent rim, need to rule out before checking prop/eng mounts)
But i just had a few more questions: I know the AFM can be noisy, but the valves seem excessivly loud at idle and low speed...no tap or knocking, just loud...so I was curious if the valves on all of them seem loud or if its something I need to look into more. Also, with after market wheels, id like to stay at 19, but what hub bore and offset should I have? Lastly, I want to upgrade the suspension, but im not very familiar with suspension systems. So any tips? id like it to still be comfortable to drive around, as its my dd, but would also like it to handle a little sportier.
Thanks for all your help so far, you guys are awesome!

[tchr49]

You're gonna get lots of good advice here.
As far as 19 in rims, I run 19/9.5/45 rear and 19/8.5/40 front. They're VMR VB3's. One thing to consider when getting new wheels is if the style/offset will be compatible with a possible future Brembo upgrade. Contact Elliott or one of the staff at ModBargains, their advice is valuable.
Suspension? Probably the most cost effective upgrade is the FE3 suspension from GM. You can use other springs if you want to lower. Greg@Pace Performance is the one to talk with for those parts. I've had good luck with my Lovells setup.
Peddlers is in trouble, I believe. Again, others are running combinations that work well, and they'll post up no doubt.
Is is possible for you to post up a clip of the noise you're hearing? That would help to figure out just what you're dealing with.
Hope this helps...

[EngineDweller]

Thanks...ill have to start calling around. And I can post a sound clip this evening, at work at the moment and dont have the car. And ill definitely look into the VMR rims. Thanks!

[Panzer Leader]

I second the motion for the FE3..... Then consider BMR chassis and tunnel braces and other parts from them.... Take a look at the bushings, you might want to replace some or all with polyurethane. The FE3 is similar the to Pedders Street II.... But going with the FE3 should cost you less..... If you go with a front strut tower brace, go with the BMR......

[EngineDweller]

ok...i dont know how to upload an mp4 file..when i click the insert video, it tells me it has to me a youtube clip

[WhatNext]

A little sportier handling but comfortable? I suggest a careful phased approach to upgrading your suspension.

I would start with adjustable sway bars front and rear. At 65k the struts and shocks should also be replaced and I would also go with the Fe3 struts and shocks. The Fe3s are gas charged and as described by our fellow brethren here on the forums, they are firmer but not harsh. But then struts and shocks should be done with springs at the same time (so not to pay twice for labor) which is a whole 'nother story. So I suggest sway bars first then decide if you are going to do springs.

Me? the stock springs and sway bars are fine for the GT type fast cruising I do with the G8. Just need to replace the crap tires (GY RSAs) that came from the factory with some premo Michelins. Then upgrade from Fe2s to Fe3 struts and shocks maybe next year (I only have 21k on my GT).

To the great suggestion for braces and bushings, again take them in phases as they will start to bite into the comfort zone. More on those later.

[EngineDweller]

Yea 65k is making me kick myself...love the car though...the struts and shocks seem a little...well, worn haha...need to be replaced for sure...Not a huge suspension guy, but they dont look super healthy, not screwed or abused, but they look like 65k was put on them with little to no maintenance. I (thankfully) will be doing all labor with my uncle, but would still rather do it all at once so i dont have to take the same stuff off more than once...i wish i could describe this noise a little better...not sure how to do the video thing...it almost sounds like an exhaust leak...with a bad injector. But there is no exhaust leak...belt seems to slip a little but the alt pulley is whining and has a slight wobble, so when cold it runs a little rough, but other than that it kicks ass haha. And yea the FE3 seems like a great place to start, with maybe some BMR tower braces..thought about doing BMR end links also...and crap tires...i hear ya there. I had at least 3 bubbles in all four tires, dealership refused to work with me so i had to buy Continentals...this summer is going to be dedicated to raising money for this car!

Oh...and do all these seem to shift like a manual?

[WhatNext]

OK, if you can do the struts and shocks yourself (with help), then I would do them first as they are worn out. Then decide later on springs. I can feel mine have deteriorated some at 21k. They are hydraulic so they can look shiny on the outside but can be next to useless for dampening the spring motion. You can get a set of Fe3 for ~$375.

Hopefully someone will chime in on getting video up. You got rough shifting? Maybe your tranny has a tune. Better check the fluid level anyway.

[EngineDweller]

I wouldnt say rough as much as...delayed? Bout to just drive up to ya lol. Honestly it could just me be being paranoid...if you have a cell number I could try and text you the vid...or email it. And yea...bumps are rough, so I think the shocks are shot. I dont think it has been tuned...but could be wrong...launch between 65 and 75 is ridiculous lol. Havent laubched from dead stop...yet haha. The tranny doesnt have a dipstick right? Gotta loosen some bolts? Or is there another way to check that fluid?

[WhatNext]

Slow shifts can be addressed by a tranny tune which is usually part of an engine/tranny custom tune package. Yeah, no dip stick so there is a plug to check and fill tranny fluid. Haven't done it yet myself so check the procedure.

Rough on bumps could also be the top bushings on the struts. The factory ones are rubber and they collapse with just weight of the car. I changed mine to poly units at 8k. You can tell by looking at the gap under the large round thingies at the top of the struts from the engine compartment. They are part of the strut assembly so do them with the struts. There are forums on this with Picts.