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Thread: Suspension Upgrade Summary

  1. #1
    VIP Member toedrag's Avatar
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    Default Suspension Upgrade Summary

    When I started researching suspension upgrades, I was overwhelmed & slightly confused with the options for the G8 both domestic and abroad, and I set out to make a list of the various bits. It occurred to me that other people might benefit from this list too, so here it is. I really hope people find it helpful b/c I've spent a ton of time putting this together. Sorry about the formatting within the tables, but since this forum doesn't allow HTML in the body of a post, it's as good as it can be.

    The objective here is to identify the various upgradeable items, provide some detail on why you might/might not want to upgrade a particular component, list some common suppliers, and hopefully, help you be better informed with the decisions you make. The objective here is not to locate the lowest price available; you can price shop on your own time. Of course, prices are subject to change, and it's up to you to verify part numbers & usage against your application/car.

    Please understand that I'm not a suspension expert, and I'm human. What I've written below is based on my interpretation of what I've read here & elsewhere, a little experience, and there's a good chance some of my interpretations aren't correct. There may be errors & omissions in this list. I'm happy to make corrections and fact-based additions. I have purposely tried to omit subjective information like "x is better because ....".


    Jump to a specific section:
    Background Information
    Front Suspension
    Rear Suspension
    Chassis Upgrades
    Potential Upgrade Paths
    Last edited by toedrag; 08-18-2013 at 02:53 PM.
    "If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow." -Ross Bentley

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    VIP Member toedrag's Avatar
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    Background Information
    Pedders Tech Talk section on the G8: http://www.peddersusa.com/articles/G...e/default.aspx
    Sway Bars on Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sway_bar
    Camber Angle on Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camber_angle
    Toe Angle on Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toe_%28automotive%29
    Caster Angle on Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caster_angle
    A GREAT read on suspension dynamics, covers a ton of topics and goes fairly deep: http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets.html
    "If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow." -Ross Bentley

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    VIP Member toedrag's Avatar
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    Front Suspension
    A pictorial of suspension components, courtesy of Rob at Wretched Motorsports from this thread: http://www.grrrr8.net/Forums/showthread.php?t=34020

    The FRONT of the car is to the RIGHT


    From top to bottom in the picture: Remember, the FRONT of the car is to the RIGHT:


    Front Strut Mount
    Strut mounts generally are available in two flavors, rubber & polyurethane (Poly). Debating which is 'better' is often a matter of personal preference. Some people notice an increase in Noise, Vibration, and Harshness (NVH) with Poly mounts, and others don't. Some people are fine with replacing stock or aftermarket rubber mounts as a part of preventative maintenance.

    Note: Strut Mount impact on ride height: Your ride height is directly influenced by the strut mount. A collapsed stock mount will cause the car to sit lower, and conversely, a fresh mount will cause the car to sit higher. A poly mount will also compress less than a new rubber mount, which might result in the car sitting slightly higher than if it had a rubber mount. Keep this in mind when reviewing advertised heights of springs & coilovers because you don't know what mount was used, and in what condition the mount was, when the supplier made their ride height measurements.

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Material Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    Stock 2-part rubber Collapses after time & miles
    Roadsafe w/o bearings Rubber $90
    Pedders 5851 w/o bearings Rubber $96
    Whiteline W41771 w/o bearings Poly $116
    BMR BK011 w/o bearings Poly $129
    SuperPro SPF1590K w/o bearings Poly $140
    Roadsafe w/bearings Rubber $140 SKF Bearings
    Whiteline W41772 w/bearings Poly $188
    K-Mac 201718 Poly $220
    SuperPro SPF1590BK w/bearings Poly $228
    K-Mac 201718-1 Poly $295
    K-Mac 201716 Poly $545 Adjustable camber & caster. Includes steel encased thrust bearings. Sized for stock springs.
    K-Mac 201816 Poly $545 Adjustable camber & caster. Includes steel encased thrust bearings. Sized for coilovers.


    Front Strut Mount Bearing
    The strut mount bearings aren't usually parts that fail in any unusual amount of time. The reason that many people buy new ones is simply a matter of insurance. If you are replacing the strut mount, then you also have to remove the strut mount bearing. The problem is the stock bearing tends to fall apart as you remove it once there is no more pressure holding it together. Then, little ball bearings then fly all over your garage. At that point, you have to either go to the dealership and pay a markup, or order a new bearing online and wait a few days all while your car waits. Since you're not going to see any performance gains from aftermarket bearings, replacing with stock is certainly acceptable.

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    Stock $70-$80
    Pedders 5030 $86
    BMR BK025 $89

    Front Springs & Struts
    Springs generally come in 3 flavors: Lowering, Stock Height, and Lift. Keep in mind that lowering springs are usually stiffer, which can impact your ride quality. Springs are also either Linear or Progressive. Linear springs have the same spacing between the coils, and progressive springs have different spacing. Progressive springs are generally more appropriate for the street because they provide a slightly softer ride over smaller bumps and have increasing stiffness the further they are compressed. Linear springs are generally more appropriate for the race track due to their predictability since their stiffness is supposed to be the same everywhere. Note that stock FE3 springs are progressive.

    You can mix & match springs & struts/shocks to your heart's content. Search & ask around on how different setups feel.

    Regarding the ride height, don't forget to read this note "Strut Mount impact on ride height" above.

    Regarding Spring Rates
    • To convert Lbs/In to Kg/mm, DIVIDE by 55.997348
    • To convert Kg/mm to Lbs/in, MULTIPLY by 55.997348




    Front Springs
    If you buy lowering springs, it's a good idea to also replace your struts. The lower the drop with the stock dampers, the more difficult it is for them to do their job. You might notice a slightly harsher ride, and/or the lifespan of the struts may be reduced. However, some people have used lowering springs on their stock struts and been fine with it. YMMV.



    Note that this table contains both Fronts only and Front & Rear kits

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Change in Height
    (inches)
    Linear, Progressive Spring Rate
    (F/R)
    Price
    w/link
    Comment
    SLP 70028 ? ? ?/? $249 all 4 springs Is likely very similar to Eibach 38137.140
    Eibach Pro 38137.140 1.0 drop Progressive ?/? $259 all 4 springs
    H&R 50750 1.3-1.4 drop Progressive ?/? $275 all 4 springs
    Tein SKF04-AUB00 ? drop Progressive ?/? $330 all 4 springs
    King KHFL-150**** & KHRL-150**** varies Progressive ?/? $417 std or $447 HD Some recommend not using HD springs up front, unless you have add'l weight, like a supercharger. See this picture for info on drop amounts
    Pedders 2954 0.78 drop Progressive ?/? $103 per spring
    Pedders 2956 stock height Progressive ?/? $103 per spring
    Pedders 7854 1.3 lift Progressive ?/? $103 per spring
    Lovells HFL-114SL 0 to 0.75 drop Linear ?/? $229 per pair Refer to this link for more info on drop measurements
    Lovells HFL-114SSL 1 to 2 drop Linear ?/? $229 per pair Refer to this link for more info on drop measurements
    Lovells HFL-114 0 to .66" lift Linear ?/? $229 per pair For height information, refer to this link
    Front Struts

    Thx to user '00 Trans Ram' for this info:
    For a little background on struts/shocks, jump down to the Coilover section. Much of what is written there applies to struts & shocks in this section. A special note on adjustable shocks (non-coilovers): Some shocks feature an adjustable rebound, while compression remains somewhat static. Why is this good? Most often on a street car, compression is significant when hitting a bump. This rapidly compresses the shock. Typically, you want this setting to be somewhat soft to absorb road bumps, cracks, etc. Rebound, on the other hand, is typically used to control body movement. As the car leans to the outside of a turn, it tries to raise the inside wheels. If the shock is set too soft, it will allow the wheels and the body to separate (the shock will extend) and the body will roll quicker. If the shock is set firmer, it resists this movement, and tries to keep the body near the wheels, which reduces body roll.


    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Adjustable or
    Special Valving?
    Warranty Rebuildable? Price
    w/link
    Comment
    GM FE3 92217535 Left No ? $110 per strut
    $335 4-piece kit
    GM FE3 92217536 Right No ? $110 per strut
    $335 4-piece kit
    Pedders GSR, 9464LR No 24 Months or 36k mi ? $438 per pair
    Lovells 7471005 Multi-staged valving 3 yr 36,000 mi ? $459 per pair
    Koni
    8641 1506SPORT
    Fixed Compression

    Adjustable rebound
    Limited lifetime Yes. Custom valving and other modifications are available at Koni Service Centers. For ex, TrueChoice Racing Services will charge $385 per shock to change the rears to be externally adjustable via a knob on top and $635 per rear shock to convert to double adjustable. $146 per shock Similar to Bilstein, this is a shock, not a strut. The OEM strut housing needs to modified by drilling a hole in the bottom and cutting the top. Remember you can always buy a used set of FE2 or FE3 front struts to modify if you don't want to use your own. Koni modification instructions. Also note that it may also be possible to fit a Koni 8611 insert in the front, which is a double-adjustable shock. Talk to a Koni Service center. Sample Shock Dyno
    Monroe GT Sport
    35-0579 & 35-0580
    Multi-staged valving 3 yr 36,000 mi ? $729 4-piece kit(shipped) Note that JHP USA may have limited stock

    Koni FSD 2100-4074
    Frequency Selective Damping Limited lifetime No $850 AUD (~$767 USD) for all 4 Little usage in the states. Other makes & models (incl Commodore VE) usually have very good reviews of this product. It's OEM on the Gallardo. These appear to be slightly more street oriented (i.e. softer) compared to the Koni Sports. Sample shock dyno

    Bilstein B8 series
    F4-PE3-H509-M0
    No Bilstein US: Limited Lifetime

    See Comments
    Yes $700 AUD per pair ($630 USD), GSL Rallysport in Australia These are shocks/inserts, not struts. To make them work, a collar needs to be welded on to the shock. Remember you can always buy a used set of FE2 or FE3 front struts to modify if you don't want to use your own. There is little documented usage in the States - only 3 forum members on TOB (TheStevo, Vz28, JonRobbinSS). Regarding warranty: if you source these from overseas, verify the warranty w/the dealer.
    Spring & Strut/shock combo kits
    These can be a great option if you don't need the fine adjustment in ride-height that a coilover can provide. In some cases, you can find a higher quality and/or higher performing strut & spring combo versus an entry level coilover.

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Amount of Drop
    (inches)
    Linear, Progressive Spring Rate
    (F/R)
    Special valving Price
    w/link
    Comment
    King Springs &
    Bilstein struts/shocks
    varies Progressive varies TBD $1588 AUD ($1431 USD), GSL Rallysport Includes the collar (not welded)
    King Springs &
    Monroe GT Sport struts/shocks
    varies Progressive varies Multi-staged valving $1097 or $1127 USD (shipped)

    $720 AUD ($641 USD)
    H&R Springs &
    Bilstein struts/shocks
    varies Progressive varies TBD $1395 AUD ($1242 USD) Includes collar (not sure if the seller welds it on or not)


    Coilovers (Front & Rear)

    Thx to user '00 Trans Ram' for much of this info:

    Basic Information:

    The following applies to both struts & coilovers. It's absolutely worth a read of this article on Buying Shocks from Far North Racing's website as well as this article on reading a Shock Dyno. The buying guide has some fascinating details on how 'adjustable' doesn't always mean adjustable, and how some adjustment ranges are actually much smaller than the 30+ clicks you might think are available. Reading a shock dyno isn't difficult and is really the only quantifiable way we have of comparing shocks, which is actually great news b/c how many times have you read "it's too harsh" and "it's firm but not harsh" in two different reviews of the same coilover/shock. Sadly however, many companies don't publicly advertise their shock dynos, so sometimes you have to ask for it. Some will give it to you and others won't. I fail to understand companies who won't; it's possible for any buyer/owner to take a shock to a 3rd party to have it dyno'd for $50-ish per shock? Shock dynos aren't proprietary, so what's the big deal? Be VERY wary of purchasing from a company that doesn't publish their dyno curve. It's akin to buying an engine without a dyno graph or a camshaft without specs. For a little more discussion on shock dyno's, see this thread: http://www.grrrr8.net/Forums/showthread.php?t=23209

    Coilover Adjustments

    All coilovers will provide a threaded method to allow you adjust the ride height where you want it, which gives you more ride height adjustment options than just a lowering spring does. There is a slight difference in how the ride heigh adjustments are made. Ideally, ride height adjustment should not affect spring compression, which is also called spring pre-load. When a coilover uses the spring perch to set the ride height, it is also changing the pre-load on the spring because the spring is either being compressed or relaxed as the perch moves up and down on the threaded damper body. This isn't ideal because with a more compressed spring the harsher the ride will be - especially if you're using a progressive spring because you're effectively using up the 'soft' portion of the progressive spring when you compress it with the perch. With the coilovers from Pedders, BC Racing, & Megan Racing, ride height adjustment is separate from spring pre-load. It is important that, if your coilovers have independent ride height & spring pre-load adjustment, that you DO NOT use the spring perch to set the ride height. This will kill your ride quality and will dramatically decrease the life of your damper.

    Several coilovers feature adjustability that simultaneously stiffens both compression and rebound. This can be a great thing for a racecar, when they are racing on very smooth surfaces. While in a turn, the resistance to rebound on the inside shock and resistance to compression on the outside shock both help eliminate body roll. However, on the street, the most noticeable effect of "firming up the shock" is a harsh ride over bumps (compression). While a driver may be willing to compromise a rougher ride with perceived greater performance in the corners, too much compression resistance will actually reduce cornering grip. This happens when the tire encounters bumps in the corner and is not allowed to move quickly enough (too much resistance). It ends up bouncing or skipping over the bumps. If the tire is not on the concrete, you are losing traction. Again, refer to a shock dyno to see how much compression & rebound adjustment actually exists...you may be surprised that in a single-adjustable coilover, there really isn't a wide range for compression adjustment.

    Another common question that comes up is "what is the difference between a 30-way adjustable shock and one that has 2.5 turns on the knob?". That is an exceedingly technical question to answer. If you want an answer, research "disc deflection", "Monroe valves" and some related terms. Additionally, one is not better than the other. The easiest way to figure out the differences are to look at the dyno curves of the shocks.

    Reliability

    It also seems like all the coilovers listed here have had a small percent fail/leak before you'd think they should (e.g. less than 20k miles). Let's face it, dealing with a 4k lb car is hard work for the damper. Part of this could be related to early designs that used softer springs, which increased damper strain, but issues seem to persist even on kits using the higher spring rates. Simply put, you should be prepared for potential rebuilds of these kits.

    Upgrading coilover springs to Swift Springs:

    Swift Springs is one of the better spring suppliers out there and it's sometimes possible to swap out the coilover spring to a Swift Spring. Many people have found that Swift springs produce a more comfortable ride even with the same spring rate & size as the spring that came with the coilover. The Swift spring accomplishes this by having a wider spacing/less coils, which makes them lighter with a longer stroke. However, due to the design of the rear suspension on the G8, there are no Swift springs available for the rear. They are only available for the front. Some retailers will let you upgrade to Swift springs if you buy the coilovers from them. Otherwise, you'll have to find someone else to source the Swift spring. To source your own Swift spring, you'll need to know the specs of the coilover's spring, the inner diameter, the total length, and the spring rate. This should be stamped on the spring, for example: 62 180 008, which means 62mm ID, 180mm long, 8kg rate. To find a supplier, just search for "custom Swift Spring" and take your pick.

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Adj Ride Height? Adj Compression/Rebound Warranty Spring Rate
    (F/R in kg/mm)
    Price
    w/link
    Comment
    Megan Racing
    MR-CDK-PG808
    Yes, independent of spring perch Yes, C/R adjusted together 1 year 7/12 $873 Limited usage in the States.
    BC Racing ZB03
    (BR Series)
    Yes, independent of spring perch Yes, C/R adjusted together 1 year 7/12 $999

    $1025 w/strut mount
    Front Springs are available (but not rear) from various sources, 65mm ID x 180mm long x 7kg. Other makes & models have found that Swift Springs improve ride quality dramatically. Sample shock dyno
    Tein DSJ28-LUSS2
    aka Tein Basic
    Yes, via spring perch No 12 Months or 12k mi 7/9 ~$1000 sources vary Possibly discontinued and replaced with Tein Sport. Isn't listed as a Pontiac application
    Tein RSF34-ZZSS2
    aka Tein Sport
    Yes, via spring perch No 12 Months or 12k mi 7/9 $1400 AUD (~$1200 USD) For Commodore VE. Limited usage in the States.
    Ksport CPT030-KP Yes, independent of spring perch Yes, C/R adjusted together 18 month 8.7/12.4 $1300

    $1196 (shipped)
    Pedders Extreme Xa 160064 Yes, independent of spring perch Yes, C/R adjusted together 24 Months or 36k mi 7/12 $1773
    BC Racing ZB03
    (ER Series)
    Yes, independent of spring perch Yes, C & R adjusted independently 1 year 9/12 $1165 GBP (~$1800 USD) Other makes & models have found that Swift Springs improve ride quality dramatically. Sample shock dyno
    H&R GFW35620-1/1 Yes, via spring perch No Limited Lifetime
    (unconfirmed)
    9/12 $2599 AUD MSRP

    $1830 AUD (~$1630 USD)
    H&R Holden product list. I cannot locate warranty policies, but googling suggests that it's a limited lifetime warranty
    Tein QSF34-GZSS2
    aka Tein Super Street 1
    Yes, via spring perch Yes, C/R adjusted together 24 Months or 24k mi 7/9 $2200 AUD (~$2000 USD)

    $2700 USD (shipped) from JHP
    Listed for Commodore VE. Some sellers call this 'double-adjustable' b/c both Front & Rear are adjustable (like most coilovers here). It's not double-adjustable in terms of the ability to adjust Compression & Rebound independently. JHP USA may have limited/no stock.
    Tein RSF34-TZSS2
    aka Tein Monoflex
    Yes, independent of spring perch Yes, C/R adjusted together 12 Months or 12k mi 7/9 $3800 AUD (~$3500 USD) Listed for Commodore VE. Some sellers call this 'double-adjustable' b/c both Front & Rear are adjustable (like most coilovers here). It's not double-adjustable in terms of the ability to adjust Compression & Rebound independently. This is also compatible with Tein's EDFC system, requires:
    • EDK04-K4469 (Controller)
    • EDK05-12120 (Motor Kit)
    • EDK06-K4474 (Opt'l Strut kit)
    Pedders Supercar Xa 164064 Yes, independent of spring perch Yes, C & R adjusted independently 24 Months or 36k mi 8/12 $4028

    Front Sway Bar Endlinks
    Endlink replacement is not generally required just because you might want to use a sway bar. It is certainly acceptable, to a degree, to use stock endlinks with an aftermarket sway bar. However, the stock endlinks are pretty small, just 3/8" in diameter, so they may bend & deflect with higher loading. Thicker ones are available, either non-adjustable or adjustable. Adjustable endlinks are useful for people who want to corner balance their cars and/or for people who want to dial in the behavior of their sway bar. If you don't know how you'd use the adjustable endlink, chances are that you don't need them.


    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Adjustable? Price
    w/link
    Comment
    MOOG K750162 & K750163 No $20-30 per link
    Whiteline W23162 No $67 per pair
    Spohn G8-FEL Yes $105 per pair
    Whiteline KLC176 Yes $134 per pair
    Powergrid 10M-130 Yes $145 per pair Uses ball joints from THK
    Pedders 424280 &
    424281
    No $92 per side, Left & Right
    BMR ELK008 Yes $199 per pair

    $319 with Rear Sway Bar endlinks
    Pedders G8-SW-LINK-F-ADJ Yes $201 per pair
    Steering Rack Bushing
    There is a single steering rack bushing on the G8. The stock bushing is rubber, and aftermarket replacements are Poly. The poly will prevent the steering rack from flexing during hard cornering, allowing a consistent toe angle, and steering should feel more crisp compared to the mushy stock bushing. The aftermarket options are inexpensive, and the bushing is easy to change. This is not really a *must-have* on any list. And, you're not likely to feel much difference unless you have also replaced the other front bushings. Point being, if you have to choose, do the Front LCA bushings before the steering rack bushing, or do them all together.


    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    BMR BK008 $19
    Whiteline W13149 $26
    Pedders EP2112 $30
    SuperPro SPF2864K $35

    Front Lower Control Arms
    There are TWO lower control arms in the front of the car, which confuses people. It's not like the rear suspension where there is an upper & lower control arm. No, in the front there is no upper control arm, and there are two lower control arms. One is placed more toward the front of the car, and the second one is placed more rearward. The Front LCA's have been a sore point in the G8 platform due to failing ball joints, which serviceable, and GM has made a few revisions to the Front LCA's over the years. Note the existence of TSB, 09-03-08-008: Knock Clunk Or Click Noise From Front Suspension Over Small Bumps. Upgrade options for the arms (not the bushings) are limited. If you're replacing the Front LCA's for any reason, you might as well also get replacement bushings too. You may be able to order the 4-arm kit from Pace Performance and have it shipped somewhere else like BMR, and they can swap the bushings for a small fee. Obviously, arrange this with the suppliers before ordering.


    Front LCA (front)
    In the picture above, this is labeled "Radius Arm (Forward)". This has many other names, for whatever reason. Here are a few: Outer LCA, Caster Arm, Radius Rod, dogleg arm, the Service Manual calls it "Front Lower Control Front Arm", and gmpartshouse calls it "lower control arm G8; Front". Suffice it to say, it's the big one up front and isn't straight.

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Price
    w/link
    Comment
    GM 92244046 (right) $160 for 1 Per this thread, these were GM's 1st attempt at fixing the ball joint issues in 2009. This is contained in the 4-arm kit below, 92249538.
    GM 92244047 (left) $160 for 1 Per this thread, these were GM's 1st attempt at fixing the ball joint issues in 2009. This is contained in the 4-arm kit below, 92249538.
    GM 92253412 (right) $160 for 1 Per this thread, these were released in 2011. There is no known 4-arm kit with this part.
    GM 92253411 (left) $160 for 1 Per this thread, these were released in 2011. There is no known 4-arm kit with this part.
    SuperPro TRC1001 $654 per pair, incl Poly bushings Can special order through BMR

    Front LCA (rear)
    In the picture above, this is labeled "Control Arm (Rearward)". This one also has a few other names: Inner Rod, Inner Arm, Inner LCA, the Service Manual calls it "Front Lower Control Arm", which is totally useless, and gmpartshouse calls it "lower control arm G8; Rear". It is confusing when talking about the 'rear LCA' because sometimes people don't know if you're referring to the LCA at the Rear Suspension or the rearward LCA of the Front Suspension. This gets worse when you talk about the bushings...

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Price
    w/link
    Comment
    GM 92244050 (right) $104 for 1 Per this thread, these were GM's 1st attempt at fixing the ball joint issues in 2009. This is contained in the 4-arm kit below, 92249538.
    GM 92244051 (left) $104 for 1

    Check with Greg @ Pace
    Per this thread, these were GM's 1st attempt at fixing the ball joint issues in 2009. This is contained in the 4-arm kit below, 92249538. Currently, searching on Pace Performance for this part only returns a different part number, 92250641, which is the latest & greatest arm as seen below.
    GM 92250640 (right) $116 for 1 Per this thread, these were released in 2011. There is no known 4-arm kit with this part.
    GM 92250641 (left) $114 for 1 Per this thread, these were released in 2011. There is no known 4-arm kit with this part.
    SuperPro TRC1000 $422, incl Poly bushings Can special order through BMR

    Front LCA kits (all 4 front LCA's)

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Price for 4 arms
    w/link
    Comment
    GM Kit 92249538 $228 Per this thread, this kit should use the following part numbers:
    • 92244046 - Front LCA (front), right
    • 92244047 - Front LCA (front), left
    • 92244050 - Front LCA (rear), right
    • 92244051 - Front LCA (rear), left
    Pedders G8 ARM KIT $1126 Contains Pedders parts: PBJ3309R, PBJ3310L, PBJ3311R, PBJ3312L, EP6560, EP6561, which are replacement ball joints & Pedders Poly bushings.
    Spohn Please see Caution Spohn LCA failure!

    Front Lower Control Arm Bushings
    Both of the Front LCA's have a bushing on the inner side (where it meets the frame of the car), and they have a ball joint on the other end where they connect to the hub/knuckle.


    Front LCA (front) Bushing
    Remember that just like the arm, the bushings have other names, just add the word "bushing" to the different names of the LCA. The most common name is Radius Rod Bushing. As a reminder, this is for the bigger of the two LCA's in front - the one that also has a slight bend to it. All of these are Polyurethane; none are rubber. These can come with or without caster washers. Adding caster washers will increase the positive caster, which is generally desirable on the G8.


    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Caster Correction? Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    Whiteline W83160 No $116
    Whiteline W83172 Yes $125
    BMR BK010 No $150
    SuperPro SPF2858K No $155
    Pedders EP6560 Yes $228

    Front LCA (rear) Bushing
    Remember that just like the arm, the bushings have other names, just add the word "bushing" to the different names of the LCA. This is for the LCA that is smaller and perfectly straight.


    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Camber Correction? Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    Whiteline W53150 No $71
    Whiteline W53347 Yes $72 Camber adjustment is possible because the hole in the bushing's metal sleeve is offset from its center line. Camber adjustment is then set based on the bushing's position prior to being pressed into the LCA.
    BMR BK009 No $109
    Pedders EP6561 No $155


    Front Sway Bar
    Sway Bars are a frequently misunderstood suspension component. Sway bars do not increase or decrease the total amount of weight transfer. Sway bars do directly change the distribution of side-to-side weight transfer, which indirectly impacts how the front & rear behave. Yes, sway bars do reduce body roll in a turn, but at the expense of reduced traction on the inside wheel. There is also a strong relationship between your springs & sway bar. For example, if you have a very stiff sway bar and soft springs, the inside wheel can leave the ground when turning. This is because the downward force of the spring may not be strong enough to overcome the upward force from the sway bar on the inside wheel. If the bar is too soft for the springs, the bar will have a negligible affect. It's worth it to read up on sway bars if this doesn't make sense to you. Take a look at the Background Information section, specifically this Weight Transfer article. Lastly, understand that sway bars to not affect front to rear weight transfer at all; if your car nosedives & squats before the sway bar, it'll still do that after adding a sway bar. However, you might want the squatting behavior for drag racing/launching...

    If you have no intention of driving your tires at the limit of traction [while turning], and if all you want is reduced body roll on the street, a sway bar is the cheapest way to reduce body roll.

    However, if you do plan on driving the limit of tire traction [while turning], before buying a sway bar, consider lowering springs + struts/shocks or coilovers because these items can lower the center of gravity and decrease weight transfer distribution everywhere (both side to side & front to back) with no penalty of traction loss. Many people believe that a sway bar should be one of the last items you upgrade, and it should be paired with adjustable endlinks so that you can properly corner balance your car, which will help you dial in your understeer & oversteer once all your other suspension components have been finalized.

    Don't ask about Hollow vs Solid bars; it's like politics & religion. Just google the topic and start reading if you're bored.



    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Adjustable? Diameter (mm) Solid or Hollow? Price
    w/link
    Comment
    Whiteline BHF62 No 26 Solid $188
    SuperPro RC0001F-27 No 27 Solid $212
    Whiteline BHF62Z Yes, 4-pt 26 Solid $215
    BMR SB012 Yes, 2-pt 29 Hollow $239 Front only
    $409 Front & Rear
    Pedders G8-SW-F26 Yes, 3-pt 26 Solid $285 Front only
    $550 Front & Rear
    SuperPro RC0001FHZ-29 Yes, 2-pt 29 Solid $339

    Front Adjustment Hardware
    Toe kits aren't necessary in the front b/c the tie rods on the steering rack give you plenty of adjustment range.


    Caster kits
    Caster kits are generally desireable in the G8.

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    SuperPro SPF2859K $37
    Whiteline W53152 $40
    Pedders 5421 $90

    Camber kits
    Camber kits may or may not be necessary; they are easy to add later-on if you determine that you can't get your front camber where you want it after making your various suspension changes. Also note that you may be able to use certain Front LCA bushing (rear) to increase negative camber.

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Adjustment
    Amount (deg)
    Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    Eibach 5.81260K +/-1.75 $35
    Spohn C10-Camber2 +/- 2 $39
    Ingalls 35420 +/- 2 $14 (for 1 bolt)
    Ingalls 81260 +/- 2 $28
    Last edited by toedrag; 09-23-2013 at 06:28 PM.
    "If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow." -Ross Bentley

  4. #4
    VIP Member toedrag's Avatar
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    Rear Suspension
    A pictorial of suspension components, courtesy of Rob at Wretched Motorsports from this thread: http://www.grrrr8.net/Forums/showthread.php?t=34020


    From top to bottom in the picture:

    Differential Bushings
    Replacing the Differential Bushings with stronger aftermarket parts will help reduce wheel hop in drag racing/launching.


    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Durometer Material Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    Whiteline W93167 ? Poly $62
    BMR BK001 68 Poly $69
    Spohn C10-POLY-1 ? Poly $69
    Pedders EP1167 ? Poly $125
    BMR BK029 95 Poly $69 These may increase Noise, Vibration, and Harshness (NVH)
    Whiteline W93356 ? Poly $98 These may increase Noise, Vibration, and Harshness (NVH)
    SuperPro SPF2869K ? Poly $152 These may increase Noise, Vibration, and Harshness (NVH)
    Pedders EP1167HD ? Poly $159 These may increase Noise, Vibration, and Harshness (NVH)
    BMR BK026 ? All Delrin $149 These will increase Noise, Vibration, and Harshness (NVH)
    Pedders EP1167HDD ? 2 Poly & 1 Delrin $205 These will increase Noise, Vibration, and Harshness (NVH)


    Rear Upper Control Arm

    None?

    Rear Upper Control Arm Bushings
    Replacing the Rear Upper Control Arm Bushings with stronger aftermarket parts will help reduce wheel hop in drag racing/launching


    Inner (where the arm connects to the frame)

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Material Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    Whiteline W63156 Poly $53
    BMR BK005 Poly $89
    Pedders EP7263 Poly $110
    BMR BK039 Delrin $149 This is both the bushing & bracket, which means you do not have to press out the old bushing.
    SuperPro SPF2870K Poly $187

    Outer (where the arm connects to the hub/knuckle)

    None?


    Rear Lower Control Arm
    Replacing the Rear Lower Control Arm with stronger aftermarket parts will help reduce wheel hop in drag racing/launching. Using an adjustable one can help you dial in your camber settings.


    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Adjustable? Bushings? Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    BMR TCA028 No Poly $299 This arm is shorter than the stock arm. Use with lowered cars only in order increase positive camber to overcome the additional negative camber that lowering the car introduces.
    Spohn C10-221 Yes
    (see comments)
    Poly $495 There are two mounting points for the rear shocks, which allows you to lower the ride height. Camber is not directly adjustable.
    Spohn C10-222 No Poly $495 Spohn's low profile version for smaller drag tires
    Spohn C10-221-DEL Yes
    (see comments)
    Delrin $532 There are two mounting points for the rear shocks, which allows you to lower the ride height. Camber is not directly adjustable. May increase Noise, Vibration, and Harshness (NVH).
    Spohn C10-222-DEL No Delrin $532 Spohn's low profile version for smaller drag tires. May increase Noise, Vibration, and Harshness (NVH).
    Whiteline KTA144 Yes Poly $539
    BMR TCA029 Yes Poly $599
    SuperPro TRC1002 Yes Poly $? Check Australian dealers or maybe special order through BMR

    Rear Lower Control Arm Bushings
    Replacing the Rear Lower Control Arm Bushings with stronger aftermarket parts will help reduce wheel hop in drag racing/launching.


    Inner (where the arm connects to the frame)

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Material Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    Whiteline W63154 Poly $53
    SuperPro SPF2865K Poly $55
    Pedders EP7264 Poly $110

    Outer (where the arm connects to the hub/knuckle)

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Material Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    BMR BK004 Poly $39 BMR indicates this is for the GT only
    SuperPro SPF2866K Poly $49 Can also be used as:
    • Rear Trailing Arm bushing (outer)
    Whiteline W63155 Poly $53 Can also be used as:
    • Rear Trailing Arm bushing (outer)
    Whiteline W63430 Poly $107 MSRP Camber correction achieved via offset hole in the metal sleeve
    Pedders EP7323 Poly $110 Pedders indicatCan also be used as:
    • Rear Trailing Arm bushing (outer)
    • Rear Toe Link bushing (inner or outer)

    Rear Toe Link
    Replacing the toe link & bushing with a stronger aftermarket one will help reduce wheel hop in drag racing/launching. Using an adjustable one can help you dial in your toe settings.


    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Adjustable? Bushings? Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    BMR TR002 No Poly $129
    Spohn C10-601 No Poly $129
    PFADT 1410131 No Poly $210 Listed for Camaro, but has been used on G8
    BMR TR003 Yes Poly $249
    Spohn C10-603 Yes Spherical rod ends $249
    Spohn C10-605 Yes Del-sphere pivot joints $279
    Whiteline KTA142 Yes Poly & Spherical rod end $314
    BMR TR004 Yes Spherical rod ends $349
    SuperPro TRC1003 Yes Poly $? Check Australian dealers or maybe special order through BMR


    Rear Toe Link Bushings
    Replacing the Rear Toe Link Bushings with stronger aftermarket parts will help reduce wheel hop in drag racing/launching.

    Inner (where the arm connects to the frame)

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Material Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    Whiteline W63157 Poly $53
    SuperPro SPF2868K Poly $64
    PFADT 1410114 Poly $90 Unsure if this is Inner or Outer.
    Pedders EP7323 Poly $110 Can also be used as:
    • Rear Lower Control Arm Bushing (outer)
    • Rear Trailing Arm Bushing (outer)
    • Rear Toe Link Bushing (outer)

    Outer (where the arm connects to the hub/knuckle)
    Not sure if the Rear Toe Link Bushing (outer) is the same size as the inner bushing...anyone?

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Material Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    Pedders EP7323 Poly $110 Can also be used as:
    • Rear Lower Control Arm Bushing (outer)
    • Rear Trailing Arm Bushing (outer)
    • Rear Toe Link Bushing (inner)

    Rear Trailing Arm
    Replacing the trailing arm & bushing with a stronger aftermarket one will help reduce wheel hop in drag racing/launching. Using an adjustable one can help you dial in your alignment settings.


    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Adjustable? Bushings? Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    Spohn C10-201 No Poly $135
    BMR TCA026 No Poly $149 BMR comparison of their Trailing Arms
    Spohn C10-201-DEL No Delrin $172
    BMR TCA027 No Spherical rod ends $279 BMR comparison of their Trailing Arms
    BMR TCA033 Yes Spherical rod ends $189 BMR comparison of their Trailing Arms
    Spohn C10-203 Yes Spherical rod ends $195
    PFADT 1410118 No Poly $235 Listed for Camaro, but has been used on G8
    Spohn C10-205 Yes Del-sphere pivot joint $235
    Whiteline KTA143 Yes Poly $349 MSRP

    Rear Trailing Arm Bushings

    Inner (where the arm connects to the frame)

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Material Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    Whiteline W63159 Poly $53
    PFADT 1410112 Poly $90
    Pedders EP7265 Poly $110

    Outer (where the arm connects to the hub/knuckle)

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Material Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    BMR BK006 Poly ~$40 various retailers Not listed as an individual item on BMR's site. It's only listed as part of a bushing kit with other bushings.
    SuperPro SPF2866K Poly $49 Can also be used as:
    • Rear Lower Control Arm Bushing (outer)
    Whiteline W63155 Poly $53 Can also be used as:
    • Rear Lower Control Arm Bushing (outer)
    Pedders EP7323 Poly $110 Can also be used as:
    • Rear Lower Control Arm Bushing (outer)
    • Rear Toe Link Bushing (inner or outer)



    Rear Subframe Bushings
    This is commonly recommended as the first suspension/chassis upgrade that should be done to a G8. The cradle & chassis are loosely tied to each other through these rubber bushings which have quite a bit of empty space, allowing the chassis & cradle to move independently. Replacing these with either inserts or bushings will tie the chassis & cradle back together again.


    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Inserts or
    Replacement Bushings
    Price
    w/link
    Comment
    Whiteline W93166 Inserts $98
    SuperPro SPF2871K Top
    SuperPro SPF2872K Bottom
    Inserts $88 Top
    $55 Bottom
    BMR BK002 Inserts $169
    Whiteline W93165 Replacements $233
    Pedders EP1169 Inserts $275
    SuperPro SPF3918K Replacements $345 Check Australian dealers or maybe special order through BMR.


    Rear Sway Bar (not labeled in the picture)
    See comments in the Front Sway Bar section. Also, when using aftermarket sway bars with other stock suspension components, some people have trouble with breaking the stock bracket in the rear where the endlink attaches to the strut. Consider BMR's Endlink Mounting Bracket, ELK009.

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Adjustable? Diameter (mm) Solid or Hollow? Price
    w/link
    Comment
    BMR SB013 Yes, 3-pt 22 Hollow $179 rear only
    $409 front & rear
    Whiteline BHR82XZ Yes, 3-pt 22 Solid $215
    Pedders G8-SW-R32 Yes, 3-pt 23 Solid $265
    SuperPro RC0001RHZ-22 Yes, 3-pt 22 Hollow $318

    Rear Sway Bar Endlinks (not labeled in the picture)
    See comments in the Front Sway Bar Endlinks section.


    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Adjustable? Price
    w/link
    Comment
    MOOG K750561 No $20-$30 per link
    Whiteline W23169 No $44 per pair
    Spohn C10-REL Yes $85 per pair
    Pedders 4201 No $59 per link
    BMR ELK006 Yes $129 per pair
    Whiteline KLC144 Yes $134 per pair
    Powergrid 10M-10 Yes $140 per pair

    Rear Spring Seat Bushing (not labeled in the picture)

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    SuperPro SPF3247K $32


    Rear Shocks & Springs (not labeled in the picture)

    Rear Springs
    Also see the Front & Rear sets of Springs in the "Front Springs & Struts" section above.


    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Change in Height
    (inches)
    Linear, Progressive Spring Rate
    (F/R)
    Price
    w/link
    Comment
    Pedders 2955 1.5 Drop Progressive ?/? $103 per spring
    Pedders 2957 0.39 Drop Progressive ?/? $103 per spring
    Pedders 7955 0.23 Lift Progressive ?/? $103 per spring
    Pedders 7855 2.3 Lift Progressive ?/? $103 per spring
    Lovells HFL-115SL 1.18 Drop Linear ?/? $229 per pair
    Lovells HFL-115SSL 1.75 Drop Linear ?/? $229 per pair
    Lovells HFL-115 stock height Linear ?/? $229 per pair

    Rear Shocks
    Also see the Front & Rear sets of Shocks in the "Front Springs & Struts" section above.


    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Adjustable or
    Special Valving?
    Warranty Rebuildable? Price
    w/link
    Comment
    GM FE3 92269786 No ? ? $73 per shock
    $335 4-piece kit
    Koni 82 2567SPORT Fixed Compression

    Adjustable rebound
    Limited lifetime Yes. Custom valving and other modifications are available at Koni Service Centers. For ex, TrueChoice Racing Services will charge $385 per shock to change the rears to be externally adjustable and $635 per shock to convert to double adjustable. $141 per shock To adjust the rears, the shock must be removed from the vehicle. See instructions here
    Lovells 7471005 Multi-staged valving 3 yr 36,000 mi ? $366 per pair
    Pedders 9295 No 2 yr 36,000 mi ? $207 per unit
    Monroe GT Sport
    15-0581
    Multi-staged valving 3 yr 36,000 mi ? $729 4-piece kit(shipped) Note that JHP USA may have limited stock

    Bilstein B8 series
    F4-BE5-F588-M0
    No Bilstein US: Limited Lifetime

    See Comments
    Yes $618 AUD per pair ($558 USD), GSL Rallysport in Australia There is little documented usage in the States - only 3 forum members on TOB (TheStevo, Vz28, JonRobbinSS). Regarding warranty: if you source these from overseas, verify the warranty w/the dealer.

    Rear Lower Shock Bushing (not labeled in the picture)

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    Whiteline W33168 $35


    Rear Coilovers (not labeled in the picture)
    Refer to the "Coilovers (Front & Rear)" section above

    Rear Adjustment Hardware
    These may also be available in combination kits.


    Camber

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    Pedders HW-CAM8-R-CAM-ADJ $127

    Toe

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    Pedders HW-CAM8-R-TOE-ADJ $127
    Last edited by toedrag; 10-14-2013 at 06:42 PM.
    "If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow." -Ross Bentley

  5. #5
    VIP Member toedrag's Avatar
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    Chassis Upgrades (not pictured)
    These are intended to stiffen the chassis to reduce twisting & flexing.

    Subframe Connectors
    Subframe connectors are installed on the underside of the car at about the mid-point front to back.

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    BMR SFC013 $229 If not using BMR's Driveshaft Tunnel Brace, modification to the stock Driveshaft Tunnel Brace is required

    Driveshaft Tunnel Brace

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    BMR DTB004 $89
    Spohn C10-994 $79

    Strut Tower Brace
    The Strut Tower Brace is installed inside the engine bay and connects the tops of the strut mounts together.

    Manufacturer
    w/link
    Price per pair
    w/link
    Comment
    BMR STB012 $179
    Whiteline KSB637 $197 Optional quick release connectors, KSB790
    Pedders 4659 $290
    "If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow." -Ross Bentley

  6. #6
    VIP Member toedrag's Avatar
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    Potential Upgrade Paths
    Don't get too wrapped up in these. Make your own decisions and buy what you want to buy depending on your needs. This is not THE ONLY way to do your suspension upgrades; it's just a few examples.

    In general:
    • If you want to reduce wheel hop for launching & drag racing, stiffen the back end. On a limited budget, just do rear bushings. On a bigger budget, replace all the rear arms, bushings, & links.
    • If aggressive street &/or road course is your thing, do subframe inserts/bushings, front bushings, and springs & struts/shocks or single adjustable coilovers. The next budget level/performance level for a road course setup (not too useful on the street) would be: sway bars, adjustable endlinks, and double-adjustable coilovers, adjustable control arms & links, chassis upgrades & stiffen the rear end as noted above.
    • If you want both reduced wheel hop & an aggressive street setup, do a combination of both of the above.
    • After that, whatever is left
    "If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow." -Ross Bentley

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    Senior Member waltjrUM's Avatar
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    Wow nice organization of resources. I haven't thought much about upgrading suspension yet but when I do I'm starting with this thread! Thanks!

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    WOW!
    Thanks for the summary.

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    Addicted Member WiscoG8's Avatar
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    Awesome! Well done. Although my suspension is upgraded already, its nice to have the information readily availible. I think a sticky should be in order.

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    Senior Member 00 Trans Ram's Avatar
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    Probably the best suspension thread for a street car I've seen. Great work!

  12. Thanks CodieSleeper, screaminChick-n thanked for this post
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