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Thread: Oil Cooler (tons of info enclosed)

  1. #81
    VIP Member toedrag's Avatar
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    I received the GM oil level/temp sensor (p/n 12603781), stuck it in some olive oil and logged its resistance vs temp, just as I did with both the SU112 and VDO 323-092. I can confirm that it does indeed have a thermistor inside, and the behavior is very similar to the other two sensors. Resistance decreases with increasing temperature--> At 300F it's 47 ohms and at 160F it's 498 ohms.

    However, it took the resistance a loooooooong time to stabilize after a temperature change....approximately 2-3 minutes, in fact. For example, after the olive oil had cooled from 310F to 300F, the resistance value didn't settle for about 3 minutes. This is in stark contrast to both the SU112 and VDO sensors which both had near-instantaneous reaction times. The major difference that I could see is that the GM 12603781 has some sort of plastic housing, which seems to be really really bad at conducting heat...a lot can happen to your oil in 2-3 minutes.

    To see how this works in the car, I did the following test. I hooked up ohm-meters to both the SU112 & GM oil level sensor, turned on the car, and let it idle for about 40 minutes. Late in the test, I shut the engine off for a few minutes, and then turned it back on. Every minute, I logged the resistance of each sensor, along with the ECM's calculated Oil Temp read from OBDII via the Interceptor. Ambient temp was 61F. The results are as follows:




    The above picture is pretty interesting. There are 3 lines:
    • Green triangles are from the ECM calculated Oil Temp read from the OBDII port using the Interceptor. (I forgot to write down the ECM oil temp in the first few minutes, which is why there are some missing data points)
    • Red Squares are from the GM oil level/temp sensor (12603781) at the oil pan
    • Blue Diamonds are from the SU112 sensor mounted at the Mocal adapter


    Some observations:
    • At Idle, the ECM calculated oil temp is always about 20 deg F higher than actual
    • Notice the spots circled in Yellow. This is where the GM oil level/temp sensor fails to react quickly to the changing oil temperature.
    • The SU112 & GM oil level/temp sensor are actually pretty close with measured temp once the GM oil level sensor catches up. Looking at the raw data, they are within 1-2 degrees of each other, outside of the Yellow circled areas.


    Let's zoom-in and take a closer look at the Engine Off/On cycle, as seen below:



    When the engine is turned off after 31 minutes, notice how the GM oil level/temp sensor keeps getting hotter while the SU112 temp is decreasing. When the engine is turned on after 37 minutes, notice how the GM oil level/temp sensor keeps cooling while the SU112 temp is increasing. It takes between 2-3 minutes for the GM oil level/temp sensor to 'see' the changing temp, as was the case with the stove test.

    What does this all mean? Here is what I'm thinking: the GM oil level/temp sensor is a poor choice for use in a motorsport application because it's too slow to react. Second, measuring oil temp at the Mocal adapter is definitely a suitable location since the temp is almost the same when measured in the pan (within 1-2 degrees). Third, the ECM's calculated oil temp is very conservative at 20 deg over actual while idling (note that the oil cooler was not really a factor in this Idling experiment).
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    This has been a fun little odyssey. In the end, I guess the message is that the air-to-oil coolers described in this thread are working, but make sure you pick a new spot for measuring oil temp because both the ECM's calculated temp and the sensor in the pan are wildly inaccurate. Oh, and remember that the temp sensing function of the 'oil level/temp sensor' in the pan is essentially unused and seems to be in no way related to the ECM's calculated oil temp.
    "If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow." -Ross Bentley

  2. #82
    Vendors Greg@PacePerformance's Avatar
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    Toedrag or Kevin.
    Do either one of you have HP tuners?
    I ran across this old post on the HPT forum.
    Might want to change the setting and see what happens.

    we're in the process of adding this and couple of other things now:

    - Oil Pressure Type (switch or sensor)
    - Oil Pressure Calculated (enable/disable)
    - Oil Temp Config

    Oil Temp Config lets you set how the Oil Temp is calculated and displayed the options are:
    - Calc ECM (oil temp is calculated from ECT and a few other things)
    - Calc ECM & Disp Sens (ECM uses calulated oil temp but gauge uses sensor measurement)
    - Sens ECM (ECM uses sensor measurement if no sensor faults exist)
    - Sens ECM & Disp (ECM & gauge use sensor mesaurement if no faults exist)

    I've also added the Oil Temp Sensed PID to the scanner (and renamed the existing Oil Temp to Oil Temp Calc).

    Should be in beta in a week or two.

    Chris...
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  3. #83
    VIP Member toedrag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg@PacePerformance View Post
    Toedrag or Kevin.
    Do either one of you have HP tuners?
    I ran across this old post on the HPT forum.
    Might want to change the setting and see what happens.
    Interesting. I don't have HP Tuners, unfortunately. It would be nice to be able to wire in a new sensor and have the ECM & Display use that sensor input instead of the one in the oil pan. With that, the wiring is the easy part, the harder part is getting the voltages right for the ECM...On the other hand, I do like that I can set alarms for Oil Pressure & Temp in the Interceptor gauge, but maybe HP tuners could adjust the threshold for the Hot Oil message or somehow add in an adjustable oil pressure alarm in the Display.

    On a related note, my setup is still working well. I've got 3-4 track days on it without ever exceeding 240F in 70-80 ambient.
    "If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow." -Ross Bentley

  4. #84
    Vendors Greg@PacePerformance's Avatar
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    Maybe i'll do some messing with it this weekend.
    The stock oil level sensor in the G8 is also a temp sensor.
    888-748-4655
    All Prices in posts are subject to change at anytime.
    Check us out at www.PacePerformance.com

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  5. #85
    VIP Member toedrag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg@PacePerformance View Post
    Maybe i'll do some messing with it this weekend.
    The stock oil level sensor in the G8 is also a temp sensor.
    Oh yes, I'm intimately familiar with it. Look a few posts above at some tests I ran. It takes 2-3 minutes for that sensor to stabilize whenever there is a temp change, which I'm guessing is one of the reasons GM went to the calculated method.
    "If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow." -Ross Bentley

  6. #86
    OCD DIYer Eidolon's Avatar
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    Alright, time for me to start looking at doing this. I'll have to shoot you a message later tonight, toedrag, to get your thoughts.
    2009 Liquid Red O/R M6 G8 GXP - Nickname: "The Yak"
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  7. #87
    Beyond Help todds87ss's Avatar
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    One other factor in the differences between the oil level/temp sender and the Mocal adapter sender...the Gm unit is submerged inside the pan, a larger volume to have to change temp in. The Mocal unit I assume is semi external, measuring a relatively small volume of oil (Above the filter?). Just a thought.
    Yes for us larger guys that screw can be a pain!

    08 G8 GT, IOM, Rotofab, HSRK, Kooks LTs, track pipes, Custom engine covers, catch can, radiator cover, and tranny tunnel brace. 402hp/396tq - not bad for a bolt -on car.
    8.43 1/8th; 2.01 60' - no skillz.

  8. #88
    VIP Member toedrag's Avatar
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    Since I finally had a reason to remove the front bumper, I snapped some pics of the oil cooler installation under the crash bar and updated the following post on pg 7:
    http://www.grrrr8.net/Forums/showthr...l=1#post505974

    The shop didn't use brackets at all, they just bolted it directly to the crash bar with some rubber mounts to limit vibration.
    "If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow." -Ross Bentley

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    Hey, i havent read the entire post but just noticed you copied Harrop's oil cooler install! I just did the exact same thing using the Setrab part number that can be seen in their instructions! I used the Improved Racing thermostatic oil cooler adapter along with their fittings and hose and its working flawlessly. I did a comprehensive write up for the guys at Improved Racing so they can develop a kit for the VE/G8, so if anyone is interested, contact them. It couldnt be simpler to install, mounting directly onto the front crash bar. Anyway, sorry to hijack! Carry on...........

    Shaun.

  10. #90
    VIP Member toedrag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaun View Post
    Hey, i havent read the entire post but just noticed you copied Harrop's oil cooler install! I just did the exact same thing using the Setrab part number that can be seen in their instructions! I used the Improved Racing thermostatic oil cooler adapter along with their fittings and hose and its working flawlessly. I did a comprehensive write up for the guys at Improved Racing so they can develop a kit for the VE/G8, so if anyone is interested, contact them. It couldnt be simpler to install, mounting directly onto the front crash bar. Anyway, sorry to hijack! Carry on...........

    Shaun.
    Good stuff! It'd be great for someone to build a kit other than Harrop. I spent time with the Improved Racing unit and was really excited about it, but when it came time for hose routing, it wasn't a good fit w/my headers. Someone (Eidolon here, I think) told me recently it could be mounted upside down, but then the oil temp port would be seeing oil after it's been through the cooler. If they had 1/8NPT ports on both sides allowing you to choose which one to use, that would be perfect.

    How did you mount yours, and did you add a temp sensor? Any pictures showing the completed install?
    "If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow." -Ross Bentley

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