Tips and Tricks for Rear Brembo Brake Installation

[Eidolon]

I had to wait on putting the shoes on because I had to reinstall the stock setup for drag racing with the 17" DRs, they don't clear the calipers

Ouch... Oh, the things we put up with when modifying our cars.

I'll get a few pics of the shoes removed also.

DARN good idea. Also post up any additional tips you may have from the experience. The more, the merrier.

[BigV8]

I finally got my rear ebrake shoes on for the camaro rotors. Here are few pics to go along with this great thread. First is the spring, second is the way the spring sits on the backing plate in the retainers(shoe removed)note: the spring goes inside the shoe, top and sides, third is how to pry to help remove the shoe over the axle hub.

[toedrag]

Terrific thread!!!

I'll add the following:
I accidentally knocked a piece of the adjuster out while fiddling with it to understand how it worked. The end of the adjuster with the toothed wheel is held in place by a little washer/gasket with a metal tab; the tab is toward the inside (toward the dust shield). You can see another smaller tab toward the outside, just next to the toothed wheel in a previous picture on this thread. It doesn't look like the tab on the outside does much. The adjuster (on the side with the toothed wheel) has two parts, both are threaded. When you turn the toothed wheel, it rotates the threaded housing of the adjuster, forcing the end of the shoes to spread apart.

The other end of the adjuster, the end without any teeth, isn't held in by anything; with the shoe removed, you can simply pull out the non-toothed end of the adjuster. In between the two adjusters is a little metal dowel.

Re-assembly of this adjuster mechanism is a no-brainer if it falls apart on you. It's an ingenious little system, but I'm easily amused.

Now, a slight tangent...I know the following is not so much 'installation' related, but I don't yet see a Brembo p/n sticky on this site. Here is some proof that 4-piston caliper p/n AC Delco 172-2502 & 172-2503 are worth looking at. In a turn of unbelievable luck, Amazon had both calipers listed for $50 each, but one of them recently had a price bump after I bought 'em. They are either the world's best Brembo replica, or they are the real deal. As you can see, 'Brembo' is stamped on the housing, and I can tell you that 'Brembo' is also stamped into the dust boots. The 'Chevrolet' & 'Brembo' writing is on the outside of the caliper, but I didn't take a picture of it. I have no doubt that people are buying these on Amazon and re-selling for $220-$260 ea elsewhere under the GM p/n. This being said, note that Amazon uses multiple suppliers, so there is always a risk that you may receive something else, but then again, I could imagine that a seller of a higher priced unit on ebay or competing site might post a negative review on Amazon to create uncertainty in the minds of the buyers. Still, buyer beware. Mine were supplied & fulfilled by Amazon, fwiw.

[BigV8]

Wow that's a killer deal and they look just like the Camaro ones I got. I got mine the day before they went up.

[20G8GT09]

Here's another reference to use: http://workshop-manuals.com/pontiac/...ce_and_repair/

[terryscott621]

Reviving this thread as I need some assistance when installing the retaining spring.

When I get the retaining spring into the clips on the backing plate there's still a lot of play/movement in the parking shoe. Is there supposed to be play/movement or is the spring supposed to hold the parking shoe firmly against the backing plate? The way it is now seems like it would be rattling around once I get everything installed and back together. I've used the new spring that came with the parking shoes and the original springs that was already on the car and they both feel like they allow too much movement.

[mrnorm_hemicide]

Adding another question/issue: is there a trick to getting the rear brake lines on? They can only bolt on two ways, and both ways the brake line is too short with the suspension fully unloaded.

[tchr49]

Just Jack the rear up under the diff, and block it under the rear arm under the shock. You can leave the Jack under the diff and just load the suspension again. Using the new SS rear rotors, it's pretty much a back the adjuster off, remove the old ones, and put the new ones on, readjust the shoes. If you're changing out the brake lines, soak the connection first and use a good thick flare wrench. Don't be afraid of a little heat if they're bad. The auto parts store ones are junk, they're countersunk where the hex engages and depending on how your fittings are seated can round them easily. Crescent ones at Menards (3 for $9.99) do the job. If you need new brake lines, the dealer will claim unavailable. Advance or O'Reillys can get them.
Copper anti seize on the edges of the pads, new copper washers on the banjo bolts.
If you're bleeding, snug the rotor on with a lug or two before you bleed. Bleed the inside first.

[mrnorm_hemicide]

So its normal to have the stock brake hose essentially stretched in tension on the CTS-v caliper when the suspension is fully unloaded? Just seems shady... I understand that when the wheels are on the car will usually load the suspension, but there are still instances where the back tires come off the road and unload the suspension. Just making sure there's nothing else that needs to be done on those factory rear brake lines.

[tchr49]

So its normal to have the stock brake hose essentially stretched in tension on the CTS-v caliper when the suspension is fully unloaded? Just seems shady... I understand that when the wheels are on the car will usually load the suspension, but there are still instances where the back tires come off the road and unload the suspension. Just making sure there's nothing else that needs to be done on those factory rear brake lines.

I went with Russell stainless lines when I did the conversion. Didn't check their length against the stockers.
I think you'd have some pretty severe conditions to fully unload the suspension.
Did notice that the angle of the hard part of the line connecting to the ctsv caliper wasnt ideal if I had used them.
The round banjo of the Russell lines allowed some leeway.