Site Sponsors & Vendors
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 31

Thread: Tips and Tricks for Rear Brembo Brake Installation

  1. #21
    OCD DIYer Eidolon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    3,689
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BigV8 View Post
    I had to wait on putting the shoes on because I had to reinstall the stock setup for drag racing with the 17" DRs, they don't clear the calipers
    Ouch... Oh, the things we put up with when modifying our cars.

    Quote Originally Posted by BigV8 View Post
    I'll get a few pics of the shoes removed also.
    DARN good idea. Also post up any additional tips you may have from the experience. The more, the merrier.
    2009 Liquid Red O/R M6 G8 GXP - Nickname: "The Yak"
    Bought 5/21/2009, Sold 5/2/2015. Will be missed!

    Daily Driver: 2013 Ford Focus ST
    Hauler: 2005 Ford Excursion Powerstroke

  2. #22
    VIP Member BigV8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    1,245
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I finally got my rear ebrake shoes on for the camaro rotors. Here are few pics to go along with this great thread. First is the spring, second is the way the spring sits on the backing plate in the retainers(shoe removed)note: the spring goes inside the shoe, top and sides, third is how to pry to help remove the shoe over the axle hub.
    Last edited by BigV8; 02-06-2013 at 04:31 PM.
    09 G8 GXP A6 SRM with sunroof. Mods:Livernois magnacharger 2300, 3.0" pulley, 160 stat, KB Bap. Rotofab,Corsa, Kooks 1 7/8 mids. 502rwhp/479tq. Suspension: BMR , Pedders Supercar coilovers, all Brembos. Show:CTS-V rims w/nitto invos 255/40 and 285/35. HSV triple gauges & CP smokers pack RIP Charlie.

  3. #23
    VIP Member toedrag's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    DFW
    Posts
    312
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Terrific thread!!!

    I'll add the following:
    I accidentally knocked a piece of the adjuster out while fiddling with it to understand how it worked. The end of the adjuster with the toothed wheel is held in place by a little washer/gasket with a metal tab; the tab is toward the inside (toward the dust shield). You can see another smaller tab toward the outside, just next to the toothed wheel in a previous picture on this thread. It doesn't look like the tab on the outside does much. The adjuster (on the side with the toothed wheel) has two parts, both are threaded. When you turn the toothed wheel, it rotates the threaded housing of the adjuster, forcing the end of the shoes to spread apart.

    The other end of the adjuster, the end without any teeth, isn't held in by anything; with the shoe removed, you can simply pull out the non-toothed end of the adjuster. In between the two adjusters is a little metal dowel.

    Re-assembly of this adjuster mechanism is a no-brainer if it falls apart on you. It's an ingenious little system, but I'm easily amused.

    Now, a slight tangent...I know the following is not so much 'installation' related, but I don't yet see a Brembo p/n sticky on this site. Here is some proof that 4-piston caliper p/n AC Delco 172-2502 & 172-2503 are worth looking at. In a turn of unbelievable luck, Amazon had both calipers listed for $50 each, but one of them recently had a price bump after I bought 'em. They are either the world's best Brembo replica, or they are the real deal. As you can see, 'Brembo' is stamped on the housing, and I can tell you that 'Brembo' is also stamped into the dust boots. The 'Chevrolet' & 'Brembo' writing is on the outside of the caliper, but I didn't take a picture of it. I have no doubt that people are buying these on Amazon and re-selling for $220-$260 ea elsewhere under the GM p/n. This being said, note that Amazon uses multiple suppliers, so there is always a risk that you may receive something else, but then again, I could imagine that a seller of a higher priced unit on ebay or competing site might post a negative review on Amazon to create uncertainty in the minds of the buyers. Still, buyer beware. Mine were supplied & fulfilled by Amazon, fwiw.
    "If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow." -Ross Bentley

  4. #24
    VIP Member BigV8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    1,245
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Wow that's a killer deal and they look just like the Camaro ones I got. I got mine the day before they went up.
    09 G8 GXP A6 SRM with sunroof. Mods:Livernois magnacharger 2300, 3.0" pulley, 160 stat, KB Bap. Rotofab,Corsa, Kooks 1 7/8 mids. 502rwhp/479tq. Suspension: BMR , Pedders Supercar coilovers, all Brembos. Show:CTS-V rims w/nitto invos 255/40 and 285/35. HSV triple gauges & CP smokers pack RIP Charlie.

  5. #25
    Member 20G8GT09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    86
    Post Thanks / Like

  6. #26
    Addicted Member terryscott621's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    512
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Reviving this thread as I need some assistance when installing the retaining spring.

    When I get the retaining spring into the clips on the backing plate there's still a lot of play/movement in the parking shoe. Is there supposed to be play/movement or is the spring supposed to hold the parking shoe firmly against the backing plate? The way it is now seems like it would be rattling around once I get everything installed and back together. I've used the new spring that came with the parking shoes and the original springs that was already on the car and they both feel like they allow too much movement.
    Terry Scott
    San Antonio, TX

    2009 G8 GXP - Sport Red Metallic (#821 of 1829 / #33 of 74 as Optioned)
    Roto-Fab Intake with Amsoil Dry Filter / HSRK / Kooks 1-7/8 Mids / SOLO Mach Shorty (Unbalanced) Catback/ Pat G Tune / Norris Motorsports Gen2 Catch Can / BMR Swaybars / BMR Rear Trailing Arms / Tein S-Tech Springs / Koni Shocks & Struts / Whiteline Rear Cradle Bushings / Whiteline Strut Bushings /

    400 RWHP / 391 RWTQ



  7. #27
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    10
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Adding another question/issue: is there a trick to getting the rear brake lines on? They can only bolt on two ways, and both ways the brake line is too short with the suspension fully unloaded.

  8. #28
    Beyond Help tchr49's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    michigan
    Posts
    1,694
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Just Jack the rear up under the diff, and block it under the rear arm under the shock. You can leave the Jack under the diff and just load the suspension again. Using the new SS rear rotors, it's pretty much a back the adjuster off, remove the old ones, and put the new ones on, readjust the shoes. If you're changing out the brake lines, soak the connection first and use a good thick flare wrench. Don't be afraid of a little heat if they're bad. The auto parts store ones are junk, they're countersunk where the hex engages and depending on how your fittings are seated can round them easily. Crescent ones at Menards (3 for $9.99) do the job. If you need new brake lines, the dealer will claim unavailable. Advance or O'Reillys can get them.
    Copper anti seize on the edges of the pads, new copper washers on the banjo bolts.
    If you're bleeding, snug the rotor on with a lug or two before you bleed. Bleed the inside first.
    things are not what they appear to be.....

    2009.5 Liquid Red,Onyx Red, Premium Package, e85 Surprise Package

  9. #29
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    10
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    So its normal to have the stock brake hose essentially stretched in tension on the CTS-v caliper when the suspension is fully unloaded? Just seems shady... I understand that when the wheels are on the car will usually load the suspension, but there are still instances where the back tires come off the road and unload the suspension. Just making sure there's nothing else that needs to be done on those factory rear brake lines.

  10. #30
    Beyond Help tchr49's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    michigan
    Posts
    1,694
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mrnorm_hemicide View Post
    So its normal to have the stock brake hose essentially stretched in tension on the CTS-v caliper when the suspension is fully unloaded? Just seems shady... I understand that when the wheels are on the car will usually load the suspension, but there are still instances where the back tires come off the road and unload the suspension. Just making sure there's nothing else that needs to be done on those factory rear brake lines.
    I went with Russell stainless lines when I did the conversion. Didn't check their length against the stockers.
    I think you'd have some pretty severe conditions to fully unload the suspension.
    Did notice that the angle of the hard part of the line connecting to the ctsv caliper wasnt ideal if I had used them.
    The round banjo of the Russell lines allowed some leeway.
    things are not what they appear to be.....

    2009.5 Liquid Red,Onyx Red, Premium Package, e85 Surprise Package

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •