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Thread: Bad Wheel Bearing

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    VIP Member STL_G8GT's Avatar
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    Default Bad Wheel Bearing

    While having a leak plugged, the tech noticed some movement with the rear passenger wheel. He thinks its a bad wheel hub, but I am concerned with the warranty and power levels to the rear. The wheel has movement north and south.

    If I was to do this myself, what are guesstimates on cost of parts and time/level of difficulty on install. Would a mild cam, about 400rwhp cause a hub to go bad more quickly?
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    ACDELCO Part # 92171057
    BEARING,RR WHL

    about $130 shipped from RockAuto

    It will need to be pressed since it's just a bearing, not a hub/bearing assembly. That's one thing I don't bother to do, personally. Take the spindle (to be removed by you) and the bearing to a local machine shop and they should do it for anywhere from $0 to $100, or sometimes even "a 6pack/case of beer." Probably a ~1-2 hour job not including the amount of time to take it to the machine shop.


    Your power level shouldn't be throwing bearings too easily, but bearings are always sort of a crap shoot. Some just go bad sooner than expected. Assuming the guy's diagnosis is even correct... Also, is it not warrantied for you? Did they say no because you're modded? If so, that's most likely illegal, because the same wheel hub/bearing is used in the G8 GXP, so you're clearly not making too much power for it. Unless you are out of mileage, it should be covered, mods or not.
    Last edited by dandragonrage; 07-26-2011 at 08:29 AM.

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    Senior Member rjones916's Avatar
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    Hub bearing has nothing to do with the engine so I would think your dealership would still cover it, unless they are a bunch of a-holes. I mean if you melted a piston I would understand and sure you would to, but nothing that you have done could have caused that failure, except for hitting a curb or other object...Covered for 5/100k. Call them up and see what they say, worth a shot. To do it yourself like stated above you need a press. You gotta pull the knuckle assembly, remove the plastic speed sensor in it, press out the old hub and bearing, two separate parts, and press on the new one and re-install everything you took off, there is a front and back, so make sure you put it in exactly how it came out...Not sure how long it would take depending on you skill set. When I did mine I was surprised how easy and smooth it went.
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    Moderator, Retired -Ray-'s Avatar
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    After you see the book labor to R&R the knuckle you may decide to let someone else do it. LOL Remember, the lower control arm is under a little downward pressure.
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    Quote Originally Posted by RichsGreyGT View Post
    this site is hardcore modding central.

  5. #5
    Beyond Help Napalm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dandragonrage View Post
    ACDELCO Part # 92171057
    BEARING,RR WHL

    about $130 shipped from RockAuto

    It will need to be pressed since it's just a bearing, not a hub/bearing assembly. That's one thing I don't bother to do, personally. Take the hub (to be removed by you) and the bearing to a local machine shop and they should do it for anywhere from $0 to $100, or sometimes even "a 6pack/case of beer." Probably a ~1-2 hour job not including the amount of time to take it to the machine shop.


    Your power level shouldn't be throwing bearings too easily, but bearings are always sort of a crap shoot. Some just go bad sooner than expected. Assuming the guy's diagnosis is even correct... Also, is it not warrantied for you? Did they say no because you're modded? If so, that's most likely illegal, because the same wheel hub/bearing is used in the G8 GXP, so you're clearly not making too much power for it. Unless you are out of mileage, it should be covered, mods or not.
    +1. There is little too it but.

    Quote Originally Posted by G8 Ray View Post
    After you see the book labor to R&R the knuckle you may decide to let someone else do it. LOL Remember, the lower control arm is under a little downward pressure.
    Ding. Pulling an axle out, removing the suspension attachments, etc. Might be a bit of work, but if saving money easy to do. Line up a shop for the bearing before you tear it apart. trust me on this one.

    Also provided you don't roll up into the dealer with a procharger screaming, etc. they should cover it without much issue. Bearing a a bit of a crap shoot and they are one of those component that if not used for long periods of time (weeks and months) then they will corrode and pit and that kills them quicker.

    Also salt spray kills then quicker.

    Unless the G8 is just that much weaker than the GTO (and I doubt it judging by the wheel lugs) then I would think they would last at least to 75K. but again, if you do lots of 1/4 passes, drive through salt, let the car sit for weeks at a time. Then maybe.

    Or you just get a bad one. OH and one other myth, some places will tell you they MUST BE REPLACED IN PAIRS. With modern sealed bearing, this is BS. You can replace just one. Especially if you have low miles on the bearing with issues.

    Before jumping to the bearing, make sure there is no issues with any of the bushings and rod ends back there.
    If Guns Kill people, then Spoons Cause Diabetes

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    Beyond Help WickedMom's Avatar
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    Hubs are covered under the 5yr/100k powertrain warranty until 2010. I *assume* that wheel bearings fall under the hubs catagory since I doubt they are serviceable bearings.
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    Beyond Help Napalm's Avatar
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    What do you mean until 2010? Curious as 5 years after 2009 would be 2014.
    If Guns Kill people, then Spoons Cause Diabetes

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    Quote Originally Posted by Napalm View Post
    What do you mean until 2010? Curious as 5 years after 2009 would be 2014.
    Up to model year 2010 cars, she means.

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    AH So.
    If Guns Kill people, then Spoons Cause Diabetes

  10. #10
    Beyond Help WickedMom's Avatar
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    Yea, 2007,08 & 09 included the Fuel pump and wheel bearing hubs in the power train warranty. 2010 and newer those items are excluded.
    **RIP Shaun Finley**
    FUCK CANCER
    **RIP Charlie**

    '16 2SS NFG Camaro M6 NPP Mag
    Procharged, custom 4.5" heat exchanger, custom cam
    LT4 fuel system and top hardware, Stainless Works long tubes
    Weld wheels, Hoosier rear fatties, M&H front skinnies

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