I didn't have to take anything off other than the front wheels to do all 4 LCAs.
I didn't have to take anything off other than the front wheels to do all 4 LCAs.
Tim
2009 PSM GT Fully Loaded
GM Sirius Connect SIRGM2L - INSTALLED (No more XM!!!)
Fasterproms Ported Intake Manifold w/LS3 TB
Camaro Brembo Brakes @ all 4 corners
Complete GXP Suspension Swap
GXP Axle-Back Exhaust w/x-pipe
Hacked Atari 3 Gauge Display
Superchips Cortex Tuned
Vararam Ram Air Intake
OEM Bluetooth Add-on
BMR Front Swaybar
HSV Valve Covers
20" Camaro Rims
Vector HSRK
6k HID's
After reading everyone's posts I first tried jacking under the rotor to relieve the downward pressure and hitting on the LCA but it wouldn't budge. So I picked up the puller above that was mentioned and was able to get it to work. I had to remove the lower caliper bolt to get enough bite with the puller, but after that it worked.
I changed out the radius rod bushings earlier this year and when I did those it only took a few hits on the end of that ones ball joints. I figured these would be easy. I guess not!
So tomorrow I'll finish now that I've gotten the two worst ones out of the way, everything else should feel like cake now.
Thanks everyone for the advice!
2014 SRT Viper TA
2009 Liquid Red G8 GT
Drivetrain: 25% UDP, Solo axle back
Suspension / Brakes: BMR f/r swaybars, radius rod bushings, trailing arms,
toe rods, subframe connectors, tunnel brace, crossmember bushings, DBA slotted rotors,
hawk ceramic pads
Show: VE SS Black/Red Steering Wheel, VE Black/Red Shifter, Leather Console Lid, 20% Tint
i have banned pickle forks from ever being used in any shop that i run, they are just evil.
Using the hammer method to the side of the knuckle so jar the metal is the best, easiest, safest, way to release a ball joint from a knuckle.
just be careful that you are not hitting anything else, it's a good idea to leave the nut on just a few threads so if you do miss you don't damage the threads