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Thread: New Rotors & SS Brake Lines Installed

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by texn884 View Post
    So far a great product and the pads are not producing dust either.
    So, I'm looking at seriously getting these from Brakeperformance.com, but wanted to see which pad specifically you went with? Did you upgrade to the ceramic pads?

  2. #22
    Beyond Help Napalm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eidolon View Post
    In terms of feel, I'm drawing a distinction between pedal firmness and how much pressure is required before your brakes begin to "bite". SS lines will improve pedal feel and brake responsiveness because they ensure that pressure is more directly transferred to the cylinders in your calipers, while the pads will improve bite, which will improve the impression of responsiveness.

    If your pads require some heat before they begin to work, you can apply pressure to a firm pedal and it will make contact, but it'll take a moment or else more pressure before there's enough heat to build up stopping power. This slight delay may cause the impression of a "spongy" pedal in that you continue to press the pedal past the point of initial contact and then you get the stopping power you expect.

    Because I swapped pads, rotors, and lines, I'm not sure how much of what I'm feeling is air in the lines versus just the Hawk HPS pads or dba rotors. I know I partially botched the job and may have let air into the system at the master cylinder, but the car definitely stops and the rotors/pads definitely bite; but there's an initial delay. When I did the bleed after changing the lines, I put in a full quart of ATE Super Blue, making sure that the fluid that was coming out of each caliper was blue only and was bubble-free. I still need to do it again and see what I get. I unfortunately don't know what it "should" feel like to know if I'm good to go, if it really does need another at-home bleed, or if I need to take it in for a Tech2 ABS bleed.
    I have a whole rant on bleeding brakes on modern cars with ABS, especially ones that are not initially LH drive. Many people on the GTO board thought I was nuts, but others proved that my method worked flawlessly. I would suspect you didn't start with the longest line, and that you probably need to tap the calipers when you bleed them. I will start another thread, so that it can be properly ignored.

    Quote Originally Posted by DJ_JonnyV View Post
    So, I'm looking at seriously getting these from Brakeperformance.com, but wanted to see which pad specifically you went with? Did you upgrade to the ceramic pads?
    I bought rotors yesterday, but I'm getting different pads. Either Hawk's, Carbotech, or Porterfield. I got the zinc coated, slotted rotors.
    If Guns Kill people, then Spoons Cause Diabetes

  3. #23
    OCD DIYer Eidolon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Napalm View Post
    I would suspect you didn't start with the longest line, and that you probably need to tap the calipers when you bleed them. I will start another thread, so that it can be properly ignored.
    Started in the back right, but considering where the ABS unit is, that may actually have been wrong. Probably should've been back left. I did definitely tap the calipers with a weighted rubber mallet during bleeding, though.
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  4. #24
    Moderator wreckwriter's Avatar
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    My calipers are rusted inside, considering some of these. Never had the rotors off on this car, are they a bitch to install?

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    Senior Member 2QUIK4U's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wreckwriter View Post
    My calipers are rusted inside, considering some of these. Never had the rotors off on this car, are they a bitch to install?
    Rotors are really easy to change. I took mine off and painted them a while back becasue they were rusting on the hats.
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  6. #26
    OCD DIYer Eidolon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2QUIK4U View Post
    Rotors are really easy to change. I took mine off and painted them a while back becasue they were rusting on the hats.
    +1

    Quote Originally Posted by wreckwriter View Post
    Never had the rotors off on this car, are they a bitch to install?
    The only thing holding any of the rotors on on these cars are the wheels and calipers. Pull the wheels, unbolt the calipers, and your rotors are free. Well... I should say, they're no longer fastened. They may not be free courtesy of rust behind the rotor, between the rotor hat and hub. Have a weighted rubber mallet on hand to do some hammering. Took some doing to get my rear rotors undone.
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  7. #27
    Moderator wreckwriter's Avatar
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    Cool, thanks

  8. #28
    Senior Member Tooler's Avatar
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    They look great! I actually ordered mine and opt out on the free pads. They took off $30 bucks. Im actually looking into either the Hawk Performance Ceramic, Hawk HPS, Disc Italia Titanium Kevlar, or the Disc Italia Hyper Ceramic. I'm not sure which ones to pick. Has anyone tried the Disk Italia?
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  9. #29
    OCD DIYer Eidolon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tooler View Post
    Im actually looking into either the Hawk Performance Ceramic, Hawk HPS, Disc Italia Titanium Kevlar, or the Disc Italia Hyper Ceramic. I'm not sure which ones to pick. Has anyone tried the Disk Italia?
    I haven't tried the Disc Italia, but I've enjoyed my Hawk HPS pads. At very light pressure, they respond less immediately than the stock pads, but with more pressure and heat, they GRAB HARD. They also release surprisingly little dust. My wheels no longer ever look like they're growing a gunmetal finish. They just get a gray sheen to them.
    2009 Liquid Red O/R M6 G8 GXP - Nickname: "The Yak"
    Bought 5/21/2009, Sold 5/2/2015. Will be missed!

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  10. #30
    Senior Member Tooler's Avatar
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    I installed these last week and there is defiantly a helicopter sound coming from these. I used the Hawk high performance ceramic pads to help with the heat. So far so good. I have not really tried to stop hard from a high speed yet, trying to break them in.
    '09 GT Stryker blue +premium +sport
    RamJet CAI
    Kooks Long Tube Header System Jet Hot Coating (1 3/4"x 3")
    X-pipe with HFC's (3" x 2.5")
    ECM and TCM tune by: Patrick
    19x8.5 Stern ST-1 Beast Hyper Silver
    2 Continental DWS 245/40ZR19
    2 Yokohama YK580 245/40ZR19
    20-30 tint add-on Viper alarm

    "The Blue Beast"

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