traction device
Looking to spend 125 on a traction device. So far I have decided on Spohn rear trailing arms. Is this a good choice for traction/wheel hop or the rear toe rods?(same price-will get the other when I can get more mod money) Is there anything else that is better for traction(not including tires) then one of those two choices in the same price range?
thanks for any input
SOLD 5/16 BOUGHT 2013 PP SHO...2009 GT 0-60 4.1,RWHP 381@4765,TQ 416.11@3828= 12.58@109.78 KOOKs 1 7/8 /race CATS, VARARAM & HSRK RESONATOR DELETE/3 INCH X PIPE to MAGNAFLOW SS F:Michilin pilot A/S3, R: Cooper Zeon RS3, VCM Ecm/TCM tune by Troy, Russell SS brake lines, hawk hps/ DBA 4000XS, NGK TR-5, YellaTerra 1.85Rockers PAC 1218, CC 7.450 Pro Magnum Rods, FULL BMR poly Rear/DIFF White BUSHINGS,BMR trailing arms/toe rods.FE3 shock/struts, Billet Catch Can, LOVELL's strut mounts/BMR bushing,UDP Ported&PolishTB,red Alto,CircleD 3000
Subframe bushings no point taking the slop out of the arms when the whole unit its bolted in to is moving around also
trailing arms would be better then toe rods. hyabusa160 is right bushings would also be a big help as well.
1.bushings
2.trailing arms
3.toe rods
4. GForce axles
2009 Karma Metallic G8 GT The best gift you can give to someone is your time,because you're giving them something that you can never get back
I have both the Spohn trailing arms and toe rods installed. (Got then on the 4 of July sale last year) Helped some, but not enough. Will be doing the subframe bushings next. The subframe bushings are more important. I would add the diff bushings before the axles on the list too.
'09 GT SRM Cortex tuner, Solo HFC, VCM Intake,Spohn Trailing Arms & Toe Links
The general feeling seems to be subframe bushings do more for wheelhop and traction then the trailing arms. Is there a good brand, all I have seen lately are the differential bushings. These subframe bushings, can I do them in the driveway? Any special tools? thanks
SOLD 5/16 BOUGHT 2013 PP SHO...2009 GT 0-60 4.1,RWHP 381@4765,TQ 416.11@3828= 12.58@109.78 KOOKs 1 7/8 /race CATS, VARARAM & HSRK RESONATOR DELETE/3 INCH X PIPE to MAGNAFLOW SS F:Michilin pilot A/S3, R: Cooper Zeon RS3, VCM Ecm/TCM tune by Troy, Russell SS brake lines, hawk hps/ DBA 4000XS, NGK TR-5, YellaTerra 1.85Rockers PAC 1218, CC 7.450 Pro Magnum Rods, FULL BMR poly Rear/DIFF White BUSHINGS,BMR trailing arms/toe rods.FE3 shock/struts, Billet Catch Can, LOVELL's strut mounts/BMR bushing,UDP Ported&PolishTB,red Alto,CircleD 3000
If the wife follows through, I will have subframe bushings for my birthday next weekend. Mine will be done in the driveway. I lowered the front of the subframe to do the left toe rod. 2 pair of jack stands, 3 ton floor jack, compressor and air tools. The subframe wiggles around so much, the benifits of the trailing arms is hidden. The poly bushings will be about the same performance wise, reguardless of brand. They fill the voids in the stock rubber. So there is still some softness from the stock rubber. The poly limits the movement. Nothing new, there have been poly inserts for Import motor mounts for years. Same principal. If one poly bushing is stiffer than another, it won't
be noticed since the rubber is still there. Good sockets and wrenches as usual. Many others have noted sometimes the bolts are tough to get out because of the amount of Loctite used by the factory. solvent and a good wire brush or wheel will take care of that. I used some 242 blue putting mine back in. I knew they were coming back out someday.
'09 GT SRM Cortex tuner, Solo HFC, VCM Intake,Spohn Trailing Arms & Toe Links
There seems to be many versions of these subframe bushings. Some connect to the rear diff. Some state are inserts. Some cost 250 bucks for 8 each and are subframe bushings like a kit for all the subframe. Some are made out of poly, some rubber, some high duro poly, this that and another thing. Which ones are like 125 bucks and while rid me of wheel hop and add traction? You can IM me websites or whatever. thanks
SOLD 5/16 BOUGHT 2013 PP SHO...2009 GT 0-60 4.1,RWHP 381@4765,TQ 416.11@3828= 12.58@109.78 KOOKs 1 7/8 /race CATS, VARARAM & HSRK RESONATOR DELETE/3 INCH X PIPE to MAGNAFLOW SS F:Michilin pilot A/S3, R: Cooper Zeon RS3, VCM Ecm/TCM tune by Troy, Russell SS brake lines, hawk hps/ DBA 4000XS, NGK TR-5, YellaTerra 1.85Rockers PAC 1218, CC 7.450 Pro Magnum Rods, FULL BMR poly Rear/DIFF White BUSHINGS,BMR trailing arms/toe rods.FE3 shock/struts, Billet Catch Can, LOVELL's strut mounts/BMR bushing,UDP Ported&PolishTB,red Alto,CircleD 3000
Personally, I'm just going to fill them with poly myself. The products you can buy are MAJOR ripoffs. You can find info about a LOT of people doing what I do with motor mounts, transmission mounts, etc. Most people seem to use shore 80 hardness stuff but I ordered slightly softer shore 70: http://www.smooth-on.com/PMC=-770-Ur...147/index.html (they have other durometers, too - 80, 60, and more)
I got enough polyurethane mix that I could probably do this for 10+ cars... for less than half the cost of one of those ripoff bushing kits.
Very interesting. Where can I find more info about this process?
JAM
Google something like "DIY poly mount." Basically you just seal off the bottom with duct tape, mix the polyurethane by the instructions for the specific instructions that came with it, pour it from the top, wait 24-48 hours and reassemble.
Basically you're saving a bunch of money in exchange for not being able to use the part for a day or two.
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