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Thread: BMR sways...

  1. #11
    Super Stock! I12XLR8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eidolon View Post
    The front sway bar is fun! No sarcasm there. None at all.

    My number one tip for front sway installation would still be "Under the alternator". Once you get the power steering line pried over the bar - which will just take some positioning of the bar, followed by some nerve-racking line plying - rotate the bar to get the end of the bar under the alternator. That'll allow it to slip further toward the passenger side and then out from under the engine. Follow the exact same path to get the new one in.

    Something else that I think helped - my memory's a little fuzzy, sadly - was to disconnect a power steering line mount. The power steering line drops from the pump, arcs over the sway bar, and then just aft of the radiator it turns 90 degrees to parallel the radiator as it heads for the passenger side to connect to the steering rack. Right near the 90-degree elbow is a little bolt that connects to the engine mount frame that is easy to undo and lets the hose move just a bit more freely. If you're finding that the hose just won't move enough for you, undoing that one bolt may help. I can provide pics of this stuff if needed.
    I know you were not providing complete instructions here but the one's I have require the passenger tie rod to be disconnected. Was this your experience? I'd like to not mess with it if at all possible.
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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by I12XLR8 View Post
    What kind of driving does is THIS set-up designed for? I'm looking for less roll in corners but am often on pot-holed roads - is it my best bet? No road racing or auto-x in my near future...
    It produces less understeer. Pete from Pedders recommends this setting for the Pedders bars. Pedders has more front adjustability, but after trying all the different settings, I absolutely find this the best setting. Going full hard will definitely keep you more upright, but it also produces a boat load of understeer. You will find the most control with this setting.

  3. #13
    Super Stock! I12XLR8's Avatar
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    ^ thanks!!!!!
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  4. #14
    Beyond Help SRG963's Avatar
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    I'm running front soft, and rear medium. My car feels very balanced, no under steer, and the rear doesn't want to kick out when cornering hard with throttle.

    If you want to get the tail out easier, set the rear to hard.
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRG963 View Post
    I'm running front soft, and rear medium. My car feels very balanced, no under steer, and the rear doesn't want to kick out when cornering hard with throttle.

    If you want to get the tail out easier, set the rear to hard.
    This is also a very good setting. Settings also depend on the supporting mods. I for example have coilovers, full bmr bushing kit front and rear (minus diff and upper/inner control arm bushings), trailing arms, toe rods, etc.

  6. #16
    OCD DIYer Eidolon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Virus View Post
    Set the front to full soft and the rear to full hard and enjoy.
    That seems like an awful lot of bias toward the rear... I'd think that'd result in more oversteer if you get on the throttle through a turn or especially if you hit a bump mid-corner.

    I've got my BMR sway bars set as high as they'll go front and rear and I LOVE the way it feels. Nice and tight and flat. It does result in a slightly bumpier ride, but for some reason I even enjoy that. Maybe I'm just weird. But it handles beautifully.

    Quote Originally Posted by I12XLR8 View Post
    I know you were not providing complete instructions here but the one's I have require the passenger tie rod to be disconnected. Was this your experience? I'd like to not mess with it if at all possible.
    Yeah, it was necessary, unfortunately. I've got the same sway bars you do, the BMR's, and I still used their instructions. Everything I posted here is additional recommendations on top of their instructions. So I had to get a tie rod end puller ($12-$15) from my local auto parts store. Trying to install the bars without taking off the tie rod end would be rough because you have to rotate the bar and the tie rod end will get in the way. I believe I ended up undoing it on both sides. So long as you don't touch the lock nuts, you won't need an alignment.
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  7. #17
    Super Stock! I12XLR8's Avatar
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    I always hate fiddling with tie-rods unless I'm changing them - seems like I'm always tearing boots. Did you have any issues when you pulled them?
    R.I.P. Charlie. We are all here because of you

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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by I12XLR8 View Post
    I always hate fiddling with tie-rods unless I'm changing them - seems like I'm always tearing boots. Did you have any issues when you pulled them?
    They haven't been difficult on the bar installs I've done.

  9. #19
    OCD DIYer Eidolon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by I12XLR8 View Post
    I always hate fiddling with tie-rods unless I'm changing them - seems like I'm always tearing boots. Did you have any issues when you pulled them?
    Um... Well, I tore a boot.

    The puller got the tie rod end bolts out of the knuckle without issue. But later in the install I managed to catch the boot on the passenger side on one of the bolts for one of the lower control arms. Turned the wheel to get clearance without knowing it was caught and riiiip. So uh... be careful!
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  10. #20
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    the tie rod boot rips really easy lol.
    i had to replace mine installing the sway bar it somehow got pushed up against the dust shield when i was twisting the sway bar in and sliced it open.
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