Site Sponsors & Vendors
Page 2 of 8 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 75

Thread: Brake Pads

  1. #11
    Beyond Help Seattle09GT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bothell, WA
    Posts
    2,969
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Installing DBA rotors, Hawk pads and Russell SS lines tomorrow with ATE Blue brake fluid. Will update on what we think after we're done.
    2009.1 Pontiac G8 GT
    White Hot w/ Onyx interior, Prem Package, Sport Package, Sunroof


    SHOW: Holden badges, backup assist, & gauges, front clip shaved w/ painted lower grilles, clear bra, matte black hood scoops, 35% tint, auto dimming mirror, Homelink, bass bias mod, VG antenna, VIM, Bluetooth, spare w/ Pace jack kit, glovebox light, white fuse covers, Rotofab radiator cover, engine cover custom painted w/ SS trim, billet aluminum trim, SS hood liner, MGP caliper covers, Third Shift Studios plaque, JBL MS-8, JL amps, Morel and Focal speakers, 12" sub, Redline Goods armrest

    GO: Volant CAI, Superchips Cortex 91 tune, BP white catch can, modded lower grille, Solo axle backs; DBA 4000 series rotors; Russell SS brake lines; ATE Blue; Hawk ceramic pads, Camaro SS 20s 245/35F & 275/30R

    0-60 MPH: 5.01 Seconds | 1/4 Mile: 13.354 Seconds @ 105.85 MPH | 279kW / 572Nm DynoJet uncorrected

  2. #12
    Beyond Help Napalm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Memphis TN
    Posts
    1,450
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I'm a big fan of Carbotech or porterfield brake pads.

    Also coming from the GTO. Don't put EBC pads with DBA rotors. I know they claim to be OK, but many people myself included had major issues with pad deposits using that combination. pad bedding didn't do shit with them either. I am convinced it was a chemistry issue. Major pad deposits. where same rotors, same car, tires and driving habits but different pads lead to no deposits.

    Just an FYI.
    If Guns Kill people, then Spoons Cause Diabetes

  3. #13
    Senior Member pha|anx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Barrie, ON
    Posts
    443
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Seattle09GT View Post
    Installing DBA rotors, Hawk pads and Russell SS lines tomorrow with ATE Blue brake fluid. Will update on what we think after we're done.
    Would LOVE to hear about your experience. My rotors are fucked and this is pretty much the only option I'm seriously considering right now. I'm looking at the drilled and slotted regular rotors and the HP ceramic pads.

    Do stainless lines really make a big difference? How about fluid options?

    Sent from Hell via my Galaxy S Captivate
    2009 Maverick Silver Metallic G8 GT - sold...
    Go: Roto-Fab CAI & AFE ProDry S, CORSA catback, HP Tuners
    Show: BE Breyton GTS-AV's 19" Hyper Silver staggered with Bridgestone Potenza RE-760's 245/40 & 275/35, tint, partial debadge, VG Sharkfin antenna, Holden V8 6.0L fender badges

    2012 Platinum Grey Metallic Volkswagen Jetta Highline TDi M6...

  4. #14
    Beyond Help Napalm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Memphis TN
    Posts
    1,450
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    ss lines help with pedal feel and modulation. imagine the rubber hoses expanding every time you pump the pedal after they have been on the car a while.

    You will notice a firmer pedal feel, once you get used to it, you can't go back.

    On fluid, what I do so take with a grain of salt: I used to DD my GTO and track my GTO. So I would put standard Valvoline Synethetic brake fluid (its like $7 per 1 quart, 1 litre) bottle at your autozone or orieliys. This is clear when it goes in, and you flush the entire system of the car (more on that later you don't need a Tech 2 to do it). When I would track the car, I would flush again with ATE super blue fluid (jegs, summit etc and other carry it) its more like 21+ per 1 litre bottle. it is blue going in, you knew you were good when the fluid was clean and blue.

    track the car, come home, flush again with basic Valvoline. repeat as often as possible per track day. For a daily driven car, expensive brake fluids aren't worth the money.

    Also for me Tracking the car meant road course or AutoX course. not Drag races.
    And I flush my brake system every year or 2 years depending on use. Just to keep the abs unit clean and happy. I call it cheap insurance.
    If Guns Kill people, then Spoons Cause Diabetes

  5. #15
    Moderator wreckwriter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    9,246
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 4GASEM View Post
    Hawk HPS with NO noise and amazingly, very little dust. I also have DBA rotors. This thing stops AMAZINGLY now.
    That's funny, mine dust like crazy.

  6. #16
    Senior Member pha|anx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Barrie, ON
    Posts
    443
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Napalm View Post
    ss lines help with pedal feel and modulation. imagine the rubber hoses expanding every time you pump the pedal after they have been on the car a while.

    You will notice a firmer pedal feel, once you get used to it, you can't go back.

    On fluid, what I do so take with a grain of salt: I used to DD my GTO and track my GTO. So I would put standard Valvoline Synethetic brake fluid (its like $7 per 1 quart, 1 litre) bottle at your autozone or orieliys. This is clear when it goes in, and you flush the entire system of the car (more on that later you don't need a Tech 2 to do it). When I would track the car, I would flush again with ATE super blue fluid (jegs, summit etc and other carry it) its more like 21+ per 1 litre bottle. it is blue going in, you knew you were good when the fluid was clean and blue.

    track the car, come home, flush again with basic Valvoline. repeat as often as possible per track day. For a daily driven car, expensive brake fluids aren't worth the money.

    Also for me Tracking the car meant road course or AutoX course. not Drag races.
    And I flush my brake system every year or 2 years depending on use. Just to keep the abs unit clean and happy. I call it cheap insurance.
    Thanks for the quick reply! Alright that sells me on stainless lines then lol. Cheapo fluid it is!

    Sent from Hell via my Galaxy S Captivate
    2009 Maverick Silver Metallic G8 GT - sold...
    Go: Roto-Fab CAI & AFE ProDry S, CORSA catback, HP Tuners
    Show: BE Breyton GTS-AV's 19" Hyper Silver staggered with Bridgestone Potenza RE-760's 245/40 & 275/35, tint, partial debadge, VG Sharkfin antenna, Holden V8 6.0L fender badges

    2012 Platinum Grey Metallic Volkswagen Jetta Highline TDi M6...

  7. #17
    Beyond Help Napalm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Memphis TN
    Posts
    1,450
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I have lots of info about brake systems that most people don't agree with as it defies conventional wisdom. I used to work for a company that made ABS modules, for GM, Mercedes, AUDI, Lamborghini, and others.

    later in life I was doing Aircraft brake systems. Some people don't like my thoughts but the ultimate in braking systems is on commercial jets, it later trickles to automotive. There is a reason why you don't see drilled rotors on an aircraft. It has nothing to do with cracking.

    Slotted rotors (Iron and Carbon) have been around for years.
    If Guns Kill people, then Spoons Cause Diabetes

  8. #18
    Beyond Help Seattle09GT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bothell, WA
    Posts
    2,969
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pha|anx View Post
    Would LOVE to hear about your experience. My rotors are fucked and this is pretty much the only option I'm seriously considering right now. I'm looking at the drilled and slotted regular rotors and the HP ceramic pads.

    Do stainless lines really make a big difference? How about fluid options?

    Sent from Hell via my Galaxy S Captivate
    Ya, my front rotors are totally fucked from doing DPE school last year - not impressed. After time on the handling oval the brakes were literally smoking. I'll add I don't have much to complain about, an Audi A6 that was running the same day also had BBQ brake pads smoking away and near cooked brake fluid.

    Stainless steel brake lines make a difference, feel is much more firm. The stock lines bulge when the fluid pulses through, and that bulging gets worse when the fluid is heated, so you need more pressure on the pedal to get the same amount of brake force. Perceived fade is greatly reduced.

    I know the folks at DBA say Hawk Pads or nothing, so that is what I'm going with, I went with the ceramic as they can take heat better. I don't do serious hard core lapping but dabble in auto-X and will do some lazy lapping this fall (and more of that moving forward).

    I'm going ATE Blue as an overkill choice. Figure if I can get two years out of a single flush than it is all good.

    I'll keep people posted, I only have 18K miles on my G8, I just want better brakes. I suspect a lot of people are looking at options as they are pushing into the useful life of the OEM brake system.
    2009.1 Pontiac G8 GT
    White Hot w/ Onyx interior, Prem Package, Sport Package, Sunroof


    SHOW: Holden badges, backup assist, & gauges, front clip shaved w/ painted lower grilles, clear bra, matte black hood scoops, 35% tint, auto dimming mirror, Homelink, bass bias mod, VG antenna, VIM, Bluetooth, spare w/ Pace jack kit, glovebox light, white fuse covers, Rotofab radiator cover, engine cover custom painted w/ SS trim, billet aluminum trim, SS hood liner, MGP caliper covers, Third Shift Studios plaque, JBL MS-8, JL amps, Morel and Focal speakers, 12" sub, Redline Goods armrest

    GO: Volant CAI, Superchips Cortex 91 tune, BP white catch can, modded lower grille, Solo axle backs; DBA 4000 series rotors; Russell SS brake lines; ATE Blue; Hawk ceramic pads, Camaro SS 20s 245/35F & 275/30R

    0-60 MPH: 5.01 Seconds | 1/4 Mile: 13.354 Seconds @ 105.85 MPH | 279kW / 572Nm DynoJet uncorrected

  9. #19
    Senior Member hulkss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Chaska, MN
    Posts
    399
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Executor999 View Post
    Where's the best place to get the Centric rotors?
    I got mine at RockAuto
    I like the machined hats and corrosion protection they use.

    Last edited by hulkss; 05-13-2011 at 06:56 PM.
    VE Commodore Sedan SS V-Series Special Edition, Left Hand Drive, PBM, Hacked Atari Gauges
    Power: 2014 Chevy Performance LS3 Crate Motor; Patrick G Tune, VCM Intake, Vector HSRK; Solo High Flow Cats, Solo Mid-Pipes
    Appearance: Vortekz Generators; RedlineGoods Shifter Boot; Holden Badges; GXP Diffuser; Stub antenna
    Handling: BMR Sub Frame Bushings, CTS-V Wheels, 255/40 & 285/35 Bridgestone S-04 Tires, GXP Rear Stabilizer Bar
    Brakes Centric Premium Rotors, ACDelco Ceramic Pads

  10. #20
    VIP Member with OCD Executor999's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Cambridge, MA
    Posts
    1,619
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hulkss View Post
    I got mine at RockAuto
    I like the machined hats and corrosion protection they use.

    Thanks. They have great prices on the rotors and the AC Delco pads.

    2008 Pontiac G8 GT | PBM | Premium Package | Tuned by Patrick G | Wrenched by Enhanced Street Performance
    AC Delco | ARP | ATI | BMR | Centric | GForce Engineering | GM | Holden | Kooks | Manton | Moog | Norris Motorsports | Patrick G | Pedders | Pirelli | PRC | RCR | Rotofab | Russell | Texas Speed | SuperPro | Xforce

    'Charlie the GRRRR8' - Rest in Peace 11/14/2013

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •