I htink it has something to do with you all running low on fuel, the car is getting back at you for doing that, maybe?
I htink it has something to do with you all running low on fuel, the car is getting back at you for doing that, maybe?
2009 Panther Black Metallic "The Black Rat"
Current Modifications: Front end, Roof Pillars & Front top of roof has Clear Shield, Holden V8 6.0 Badges, Holden V Trunk Badge from Crazy Paul, UPR Catch Can, Corsa Exhaust & Roto Fab CAI. Spare Tire and Jack and Tinted Window's, hood scoops gutted, Poor Mans Heater Hose modification (holding up the hoses with zip ties), Painted the front dart to Panther Black.
Patrick Guerra's Tune July 12, 2010: 345 HP, 355 Torque on 87 Octane
Patrick's & Kurt's install of Kooks Long tubes 1 7/8" w/Corsa Connection Pipes
11-3-10: 362 rwhp, 372 Torque and updated engine and transmission tune.
New Engine as of 10- 5, 2011. Patrick & Kurt's tune and dyno 10-19 2011:363 rwhp, 365 Torque 93 octane.
Sounds so GRRRR8 BECAUSE RACE CAR
7-1-14 Brembo Front Brake upgrade & Bohnam Front Splitter installed Curt here
Running low on fuel will not set the light either...
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**RIP Shaun Finley**
FUCK CANCER
**RIP Charlie**
'16 2SS NFG Camaro M6 NPP Mag
Procharged, custom 4.5" heat exchanger, custom cam
LT4 fuel system and top hardware, Stainless Works long tubes
Weld wheels, Hoosier rear fatties, M&H front skinnies
Maybe its the Moon's gravitational pull.
Old Retiree in a Infiniti
Current Car - Infiniti M37S
Former G8 -V6 Owner (Yes, I am still kicking myself)
I have had the same issue a couple of times! The first time I was pretty freaked out as I was on a trip and the low fuel message had been blinking at me for while already. Tried everything I could think of (but wanted to avoid prying it open) so called road-side assistance. Of course, right after I got off the phone with them my wife tried it and it popped open.
It has happened again at least three more times but if I patiently try to open it the usual way it eventually comes. This is one of the items that I have never been able to reproduce at the dealer so haven't had it fixed yet.
this one detail about this car really kills me. first thing i noticed when i took this car home was the fact that they use a stupid thing like that to lock the fuel door vs a regular cable. maybe im old school but i hate how they keep adding electronic gismos on to everything possible on the car. its only one more thing to break. give me a damn cable for the fuel door! these car manufactures needs to stop making people so lazy.
the fact that it always works everytime you open and unlock the door adds more use to that little thing vs a cable that you only pull when you need it. shit if you dont want to use a cable thats fine put a damn button there for it.
i just had to vent about that ok
Last edited by hayabusa160; 05-30-2011 at 08:34 PM.
So, all who have had issues with this - here's my vent. The design on this is a POS!! There is no manual override or any other way to open the fuel door if the "latch" decides to no longer work. Every time you lock and unlock the car, including when you drive down the road and the "auto lock" locks all the doors, the fuel door "latch" mechanism also locks. This is a POS manufactured in China. The only way I figured out how to "unlatch" the mechanism once mine would no longer open was to "CAREFULLY" pry the fuel door open. You will NOT be able to "pound" the post out of the plastic hole in the back of the fuel door. If you pry the door open from the back side it will bend the plastic post enough to come out of the fuel door. The locking mechnism is a post which goes through a plastic round piece attached to the back of the fuel door. Because the Post and the Round Hole on the back of the fuel door are both plastic, it's a hit and miss on which one will break or bend enough to open the door to replace the mechanism. I got lucky and the post bent before anything else broke. If you have "heard" the mechanism getting "louder" when you lock your doors, REPLACE IT! Online, the part is about $75.00. If you have to replace the Fuel Door and or other pieces, the fuel door - unpainted - is $75.00 as well. This does not include the arm mechanism, which is part of where the locking post goes through to lock it in place. This can cost you even more. From the Dealer, the locking "latch" mechanism will run you over $100.00. I was tempted simply to break off the pin on the locking mechanism so it didn't lock anymore after I figured out the price (and decided it was a POS!). You actually don't need it to lock. The "assist open", when you push against the door also has enough attachment to the door to keep it closed without the locking pin. The wires to the mechanism go through the fender well into the trunk. By pulling the inside right trunk panel, you can easily see the wires going to the mechanism. You just can't see or get to the mechanism this way in order to open the fuel door. The mechanism is held in place by 3 Torq's screws. Hope this helps the next person who runs into this issue.